This is like doing brain surgery, very precise movements.:)

I planned on this project this week, see how it goes along with the Honey-do-list :D.

I`ll do a follow up how we finish up.


Arther< do you need another one of those 2 wire sensors like I sent you last yr? found another one.

Charlie

<Arther< do you need another one of those 2 wire sensors like I sent you last yr? found another one.

>

I knew/thought that was you ..... Thanks Again.

That was very good of you and I am happy to report that the one you sent worked to SPEC !!!! Yeah !!!

I still owe ya on that one.

Keep the other as there are always guys looking for them..they are expensive, too.
Ever see any more of those MFI engines , pull the injectors..they are getting rare as hell too...all that MFI stuff ..we used to see them everwhere , but not anymore...

[quote=Arthur Dalton;1972653]
Don't guess on differentail bearing loads ..I have seen too many in the dumpster b/c of foolish nut tightening w/o regards to load.
[quote]

I have seen failures due to tightening the pinion nut with an impact wrench.

<I have seen failures due to tightening the pinion nut with an impact wrench. >

Yeah..they want them " Goodentite"

I have seen only two on those old cars in the three PNP we have within 40 miles of here this past yr. at least with that engine. they are crushing them as fast as they can. :mad:

last I looked that sensor was $150.00 I think :eek:.

Charlie

<<last I looked that sensor was $150.00 I think .
>>

Yeah, which is why I was using a cabin toggle switch instead.........until you came to my rescue..........:)
Now I have Both.

Thanks all for the great comments. You really did a great job of explaining how to set the proper load on the bearing. I really appreciate all the thoughts.

Jim

pinion nut removal
 

Hello,

I'm in the process of replacing my seal.

However, measuring the axle load is confusing. I can turn the whole assembly with my hand, and doesn't register on my torque wrench either its so easy.

Whats the scoop, any input would be appreciated?

My Mercedes book tells me that the tightnening of the nut should be at least 180nM [133ft/lbs] over and above the torque to turn the wheels.

In another note anybody tried to get this &$#@*& nut off its incredibly tight. I have impact wrench but I'm hesitant to use it because of the possible damage to the axle and its bearings.

Gavinbr:rolleyes:

I've heard from several sources that impact type driven sockets should NEVER be used on a pinion nut.

For those of you that want to use the FSM procedures please note that according to that document the force required to move the pinion should be measured with the rear brake pads removed AND the rear suspension at normal ride height.

You need a very small torque wrench, typical values for turning torque are only 3-5 inch/pounds.

I have a small "beam style" wrench that measures 0-12 inch pounds, works great.

rear pinion nut removal and installation
 

Arthur,

So lets assume you have measured the torque as 12 inch/lbs, now what?

How do you put it back? This is terribly confusing!

According to my mercedes manual [Offcial Mercedes manual] is says tighten to 180Nm. If that can't be attained a new crush washer is required?

Sooo, why not just crank it to that number? Or, Are you saying that on the way to tightening the nut to 180 Nm, it shouldn't take more then the 12 inch/lbs to turn the pinion, the original example measurement. In other words, if after tightening to 180Nm the inch/lb reading now shows 25 inch/lbs to turn the axle, you tightened to much? Does that make sense?
I'm probably repeating what you have all ready said.

If I can get it off, nobody has given me any suggestions how. My nut is easy to put back where it was before because, the end of the nut is flush with the small protuding pinion shaft sticking out. Some people have said count the number of threads to put back, mine has no threads showing.

In an other note, if you decide to put new nut back on, guess what, Mercedes don't have the original style, the have gone to a "splined" nut versus the four prong style. Thats another tool you have to purchase. I purchased a four prong tool that's readily available on the internet. I broke the 1st one trying to get the @#$%^ thing off.

What about the impact wrench for removal???

Whats the scoop here.

Gavinbr:D

rear pinion nut removal and installation
 

This a note for those doing the rear pinion nut removal and installation.....

I finally got my holding nut off my 300D Euro.

I used a pinion shaft nut remover socket [special order] to remove it.
Don't buy the cheap one from "JTC tools" #1615 this broke the first go down.

I used a three foot bar on my socket it was sooooo, tight.
You will need to have somebody hold the socket in place while this accomplished.

I then torqued up to 180NM and or where I had marked before removal to get the correct loading.

Brian

Here is a video to get an idea of how to check the preload with an inch pound torque wrench before removing the flange. Forward video to about 2:08 minutes for the procedure. Setting pinion bearing preload on the Ford 8.8" axle - YouTube
After installing the new flange tighten a new nut down to the same preload spec and strike it in place.


.

typical friction torque with diff on bench
 

Hello.
I removed the diff from my 240d and removed the double hex nut without measuring anything. I also discarded the old nut.
I took advice from a mechanic friend who claimed that changing the rear seal was no big deal. He didn't mention measuring anything. He also admitted to using an impact gun. My bad and will never listen to him again before checking the FSM.
Now i don't have any way of going back to the original preload.
What should the friction torque required to turn the input shaft be?
Diff is without axles and lying on a workbench.
I know this thread is old.
Please help :)

The first thing to note is that there is a separate chapter in the FSM for just replacing the pinion seal and not having the rest of the differential in pieces and having it fitted to the car. In this case chapter you want is 35-530.

You can access this via www.startekinfo.com for free.

(This can be an awkward site to get working on some modern computers though - do a search for FSM + startek and you'll see loads of tips and tricks)

You are meant to measure the friction first and then when you put it all back together again you need to tighten it so it is back at that friction...

...but...

...this won't work for you now. So you should ideally be following the procedure for the whole revision => chapter 35-550

To do the job properly you should remove the crown wheel and differential assembly from the casing.

You tighten the pinion shaft nut so that you get a friction of 50 to 100 Ncm on a used bearing.

I'm guessing you don't really want to remove the crown wheel and the guts from the differential. (With these parts still in there you will have additional friction!!!) If I were you I'd tighten the output shaft nut to the middle of that range and then check the contact patch on the crown wheel with engineers blue.

I just so happen to be doing this job to my W201 differential today and I'm about to upload information in this thread =>

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/344307-w201-differential-refresh-thread.html

This thread (will / is about to) show you how to measure the friction and how to assess the contact patch of the pinion and crown wheel gears.

By visually inspecting the contact patch with engineers blue you are checking that you have the correct pinion shaft friction - because all you are doing is making sure that the position if the pinion is in the right place for the crown wheel...

...the friction method is just the way the FSM tells you to do the job - but the point is the contact patch position.