Tell me where you think the k38 is...the relay that is clicking to flash the lights is not the k38. The K38 is simply a Starter lock-out relay. And the relay terminals 87 and 30 close when the alalrm is OFF and that is fed from fuse B.
Do you have the correct relay is my question

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A Dalton

Arthur,

Thank you for clarifying that. So that is the blinker relay I am hearing. The blinker relay I mistook for the k38 is silver and against the firewall on the inside of the car, above the break pedal. I have read that for my car the k38 is behind the instrument cluster. Please verify this is correct.

It seems through my research that jumping 1 and 3 on the relay near the gas pedal with the 4 prongs is the same as bypassing 87 and 30 on the k38. Is that correct?

Thank you for your help
James

I was scouring some old posts and realized that all this time I have been incorrectly jumping the pins at the x49/2....I left it PLUGGED IN this time and jumped the 1 and 3 pins and it started... Great.
I am OK with installing a toggle switch and running the car like this. It seems to have no harm other than having to manually bypass the k38.

The red light still blinks and the front turns signals still blink... how can I stop these two??? I assume that they are tied into the same problem, but if not then i only really need to get the turn signals to stop flashing.

That's what I thought..wrong relay
The k38 is behind the cluster.
The problem is with the alalrn being armed and you have to find out why in order to fix the flashing...but you can disconnect the alarm..the only problem when one does that is you also have to jumper the k38 for starter activation b/c k38 is starter interlock for alarm .
So, you can disconnect the alarm module and jumper the k38 1 and 3 and you will have a normal starting car w/o an alalrm system.
..or trace out why the alarm is armed ..that can be anywhere that there is an arm switch. Most just do away with it.
If you have start with a jumper at 1/3, that should be colors V and V/GN
....it is all in the Archieves

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A Dalton

IIRC you can just disconnect the ATA module and will fix it all.
I don't "think" that anything needs to be jumped to do this, not 100% sure though.
Gilly

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Disconnect of ATA module will open circuit for K38 coil at Pin #1 of N26 ATA module and no coil V results in No Start b/c k38 has to be live for Start, dead for interlock. So, that would be the same as bad fuse 'B" coil feed to K38...No Starter activation b/c contacts 30/87 would be OPEN , opening circuit to NSS.
The circuit goes ..IGN sw to k38.. K38 to NSS .. NSS to X27 ..X27 to starter solinoid. That is where we started ..X27..
K38 MUST be jumpered if you disconnect ATA module...and the reason for that is if someone rips out your ATA module , the car will still not start.

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A Dalton

Admittedly I might be thinking of an older 124, where it was just an alarm and not a true "anti-theft" system.
Gilly

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I think you are right on the earlier models.
I am mostly familiar with the 93/95 vintage ATA ..and that is the schematic I am using as reference for this particular posting...

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A Dalton

Thank you all who have posted and especially A Dalton, very helpful. Well I have it up and running while bypassing 1 and 3 pins (violet and violet and white) and took it for a spin.

Bad news... Blown head gasket, check engine light and a 2nd to 3rd gear slips before shifting reving the motor up a 1,000 rpms or so before catching the gear. I ran the led test on the diagnostic code and came up with 12, 21, and 26.
According to this helpful diagnostic code readout:
These convert to:

12 Heated oxygen sensor heater circuit open or circuit short
21 Purge switchover valve circuit open or circuit short
26 Upshift delay faulty

I am sadly at a decision now where I am weighing out all the repair that needs to be done and cost verses the value of the car... I don't mind doing the work to repair the head gasket myself but I fear that I may never fix all the problems this car is beginning to show. I know that this year has been a known problem with the wiring harness and suspect that the 2 shorts code 12 and 21 are possibly a result of a bad harness. I will research the cars history a bit more, do some more homework on the forums and post the verdict later on.

Update / Further Questions

The car has sat for a couple months now due to my busy schedule and its grim prognosis.

However, I now have some time. I wanna fix the car and start enjoying it.

I am trying to determine the health of my engine wiring harness before I rip the head off and replace the head gasket and resurface the head.

I have attached some pictures of the front drivers side, near the power steering pump. These pictures are to show the wires I examined.

I sliced open the tubing to get a glimpse of what these wires look like and they look to be in great condition with no signs of cracking or brittleness. They feel very pliable and fresh. How strong of an indicator is this particular section of harness? Can I assume that the rest is in good condition? I am particularity interested in the health of the harness due to the error codes :

12 Heated oxygen sensor heater circuit open or circuit short
21 Purge switchover valve circuit open or circuit short
26 Upshift delay faulty

Any help greatly appreciated this will help make my decision in repairing the car.

James

Attached Thumbnails

   

Those are common codes , so I wouldn't look at a wire harness as the fault for them before checking each one.

You have a purge code , an 02 heater code , and a simple shift delay code.

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A Dalton

Car has been starting fine for months.... after battery totally drained flat during a bearing bracket and fan clutch replacement, the car now will not start....

I jumped start the car via the middle pin with violet/white wires that is located at the inner firewall near the brake resevoir, and it starts.

x49/2 under the dash has been jumped for a year so I am pretty certain this rules out the ATA as well as the NSS switch, correct? If not I suppose that the NSS switch can be the culprit.

thanks

Alarm was not sounding but it was cutting off the ignition. It burned out fuse at block C so I placed a new one in and heard a ticking relay under instruments... I disarmed the car @ passenger door (held key in for 3 secs in unlock) and ticking ceased. Car starts : )