I've read the posts regarding the filterchange procedure, but I would appreciate advice on how to use/tape/modify my vicegrips to avoid destroying the rubber fuel hoses. I do not have any clamps/pliers designed for this job. As a related question, if the tank is low on gas, wouldn't it be a good idea to avoid pinching the hoses altogether and just let the tank drain into one of those plastic, portable 5 gallon gas containers, and after the filter is changed just pour the fuel back into the tank? Thanks.

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87 300e (white/black; amg body kit)
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98 ml 320 (totaled @ 137,000 miles)
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Bend the hose over itself and use tape or a ziptie to hold it down.

A couple of pieces of wood shim should be plenty of protection for the hoses. It won't take very much pressure at all. You're just trying to stop air from leaking in, not meld the sides of the hose together.

I don't really see the significance of how much fuel is in the tank. Or the need to drain it.

To avoid all of this, I installed a small inline hand pump in the fuel system to prime it and push all the air out. It works really well. You can find one at your local marine supply store. I can put on a DRY fuel filter and start it on the first turn of the key.

I have a few hemostats that I use when fishing and I set aside the flatest one for this purpose.

Tank draining? Seems like a lot of work.

Vise grips may work as long as you set the opening wide enough so it does cut the hose.

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the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth...
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2007 Honda Accord SE V6
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Can you provide pics and the model of the pump you used? I like this idea.

Andy

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'95 E300D 313k miles
http://www.ourfullhouse.com

This is very similar to the one I have. It goes by the name "primer bulb" at your local marine supply store.

Put this thing between your hardline and the first fuel filter in the engine compartment. Have someone stick their ear by the fuel filler with the cap off, have them holler when they hear the bubbles stop.

Note/disclaimer: I do not have this installed in my engine compartment. My diesel comes from a small racing tank in the trunk and I have the pump installed back there. Veggie oil is in my main tank. I can't imagine there will be any difference in its effectiveness if its placed in the engine compartment.

I don't see a need to clamp the hose at all. A little fuel will leak out of the lines but the tank won't drain though the fuel pump. As for the air in the lines it's not an issue. Turn the key on a few times to run the pump and you are primed and ready to go. No need to make it harder than it really is.

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I have used Vice-grips(R) as a hose clamp by putting a couple of pieces of vinyl tubing on the jaws to pad them. Use 1/2 inch tubing, cut the pieces about an inch long and slit them lengthwise, then push them over the jaws.

Another option is to plug the hose rather than clamp it. Depending on the size of the hose, you may be able to find a Phillips screwdriver that fits into the hose, then tighten the hose clamp.

Jeremy

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
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I keep a stash of golf tees and plastic cap plugs for this purpose. I use them most often to plug brake lines when removing calipers.

The "professional" clamps made for this job are not very expensive.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=66783&PartNo=ya2850a&group_id=1461&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

Try $7.25 for the pair.

It's more expensive in terms of your time to adapt something not made for the job.

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Kent Christensen
Albuquerque
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