Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Tech Help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12-03-2008, 10:02 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 30
W124 E320 DTC and ETA issues

Ok, I picked up a '95 W124 E320 with the M104. Both the ABS and ASR lights were on, and the HG was leaking. (Yeah, I know, I'm a sucker for a project). The car actually drove great and the ETA was working fine (throttle was totally normal), but the ABS and ASR were both obviously non-functional...both tire spinning and lockup under braking were easy to achieve. I put almost 1000 miles on the car in this condition, and other than blowing a quart of oil out the HG every 150 miles, it was fine.

The main engine harness is in good shape, obviously replaced.

I checked and cleared the codes before starting the HG project:

16-pin connector, using the home-brew code reader.

Before work:
Pin 8 - DTC code 42 - CAN bus to EA

While I had the HG off, I cut open the sheathing on the ETA harness cable. The insulation was GONE. I mean COMPLETELY degraded (and this car supposedly had the ETA replaced at the dealer at about 50k miles!). So, I attempted to rebuild the ETA wiring harness according to the online write-up. Maybe I got it right, and maybe I didn't...

After work:
Pin 14 - DTC code 3 - ETA
Pin 8 - DTC code 8 - Limp-home, 42 - CAN bus to EA

Now, after the work, the ETA does open and close during the self-test at ignition on. And going through that self-test does not throw the DTC code 3. It will only throw that code after running the car. And clearly the ETA is not functional...LHM is present and the car is virtually undriveable.

I did do the throttle linkage adjustments, and removed-installed the ETA a couple times checking for the obvious problems, with consistent results above.

2 questions now:

1 - I'm tempted to try the BBA rebuild service for $400. If they try to fix it and can't get a good bench test they tell me I'm only out the shipping charges. Is this a good idea?

2 - How do I test the CAN bus? I had hoped that repairing the ETA wiring would help this, but obviously I made things worse. Should I test something to ensure that the CAN bus problem isn't causing additional issues?

Any thoughts are appreciated!

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-04-2008, 10:32 AM
babymog's Avatar
Loose Cannon - No Balls
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Northeast Indiana
Posts: 10,767
Did you check the OVP relay / cure the ABS & ASR lights?
__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-04-2008, 11:42 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
Did you check the OVP relay / cure the ABS & ASR lights?
I did replace the OVP relay before the HG project. No change to the ABS & ASR lights. Thanks, I forgot to mention that.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-08-2008, 10:02 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 30
No other thoughts on this? If not I'm going to go ahead and send the ETA to BBA today, hopefully they'll have more luck with it than I did.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-08-2008, 03:07 PM
pesuazo's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Near Raleigh, NC
Posts: 580
How about all the other components related to the ABS/ASR?
Brake Switch, Neutral Safety switch. They are cheap and easy to replace.
__________________
1999 Porsche 996 Carrera Convertible
1994 420E - SOLD
1986 300E - SOLD, what a car
609 Certified
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-08-2008, 08:15 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: St. Louis Missouri
Posts: 473
There are two other companies that rebuild ETA's, they are Beckmann Technologies, and 4Mercedes. BT is a little more expensive, but they were very very helpful when I dealt with my ETA problem. 4Mercedes would probably be OK as well, but they were less helpful when I talked to them on the phone. There are three common ways these things fail. They are bad wire harness, bad motor, and bad feedback potentiometer. Bad wire harness is DIYable if you are handy with a solder iron, and have some craftsmanship skills to disassemble/reassemble the plug. A bad motor can not be fixed as the motor is a press fit into the housing. BT is the only rebuilder (at least to my knowledge) that can repair a defective feedback pot.

Many DIY rewires have failed because of a bad motor or pot..... (my record is 50/50)

If I were to have this problem again, I would use BT even if they cost a bit more.

J. M. van Swaay
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12-10-2008, 09:39 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 30
Thanks for the feedback, guys. Since the car was driving OK (not in LHM) before the HG and harness rebuild, doesn't that mean that the motor and feedback pot in the unit are working ok? (it still looks like the power on self-test is working, so I believe the motor is still ok regardless.)
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 12-10-2008, 06:55 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: St. Louis Missouri
Posts: 473
Did you actually peel back several inches of the black fabric wrap around the engine wire harness when verifying its integrity? At first, mine looked good, but closer inspection revealed major insulation decay....

Maybe you read this already--it details my ETA experience. Maybe there is some beneficial info.

1995 E320 fault codes - throttle actuator?

Good Luck
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 12-10-2008, 11:52 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 30
Yep, I did read that thread, thanks. Good info there, I'm pretty sure I hit every ASR/ETA thread on the board over the last few weeks! Forgot to mention that I also rebuild that same 'starter lockout' 3-wire harness that you did in your thread, though I doubt it is related.

I peeled back an inch or two in a couple places on the harness and am pretty comfortable that it is good. It's in beautiful shape compared to the very obvious failure of any of the other 'original' wiring in the area (starter harness, ETA harness)
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-12-2009, 02:27 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 30
Update: I did purchase a rebuilt unit from Beckmann ( http://www.beckmanntechnologies.com ). They have an exchange program for $760. BBA was $400 for the exchange, but after speaking with Andrew at Beckmann I felt very good about their knowledge, level of service, and competency. Nothing against BBA, I was just impressed with Beckmann and appreciated J.M.'s experience as well.

I was happy with the experience and the part arrived in good order and worked on the first try. I have good ETA operation again, the car is very driveable and I'm back to code 42 on pin 8 as before.

So, I still have the ABS/ASR lights on, and no ABS/ASR functionality, but the car runs and drives very well so I can keep troubleshooting while I use it.

I replaced the brake switch as well, to no effect.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 01-12-2009, 05:06 PM
amg280's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NY
Posts: 530
Do the lights come on immediately after start up, or once you start driving?

It still sounds like a bad harness...
__________________
93 300D 2.5 Turbo, Black/Palomino 273K
09 E350 Black/Black 41K
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 01-12-2009, 05:22 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 30
Lights come on immediately. Even after clearing the codes, there is never a time that the lights are not illuminated...they come on during the test with the ignition key and stay on when the rest of the lights extinguish.

I still would like to know how I can test the 'CAN bus to the EA module'. I've tried looking in the WIS for some kind of pinout diagram of the connector and haven't come up with anything.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 01-12-2009, 11:38 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Florida / N.H.
Posts: 8,804
CC work??
__________________
A Dalton
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 01-14-2009, 02:58 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 30
No, CC does not work.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 01-14-2009, 12:00 PM
amg280's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NY
Posts: 530
I know you have probably done this 1000+ times, but I would check all the connections behind the battery box. Perhaps something came loose while replacing the OVP. Disconnect them and reconnect them. I also wouldnt rule out the possibility of another faulty OVP. Is the fuse ok on it?

__________________
93 300D 2.5 Turbo, Black/Palomino 273K
09 E350 Black/Black 41K
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:33 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page