Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Tech Help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12-05-2008, 02:04 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 310
85 380 SE Plusses, minuses??

Need to know the good and the bad--(if any) on this model since I am contemplating one for sale.

Will, of course, run and drive it for any obvious signs of disappointment ---beyond the rust.

Thanks,

Sparky

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-05-2008, 08:45 PM
vwnate1's Avatar
Diesel Dandy
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Sunny So. Cal. !
Posts: 4,776
Post W-126 Chassis S Klasse

It's a stormer if it's in good shape and you're going to LOVE it in spite of being a HUGE boat .

Some will tell you that 380's have cam chain failure issues but not the later model ones like you're looking at .

If it has over 200.00 miles , either get a receipt for new cam chains and tensioners or take $1,500.00 off the price unless it's like a $1,000.00 car .

Those charity auction places a LOADED with these fine cars and they're always cheap , especially if there's any cosmetic damage or bad paint .

I prefer the Diesels but then , I like the W-123 chassis cars better too so who knows , if you like it and it passes the " Oil Cap Test " and runs fine , no blue smoke upon startup nor full throttle acelleration , BUY IT
__________________
-Nate
1982 240D creampuff 370,000 miles
1978 300CD back from the dead&1980 300CD ~ SOLD
1984 300CD KEEPER ! 478,XXX miles
1984 Euro 300TD Fully optioned SWMBO's
1974 350SLC 4 speed stickshift SOLD & missed
Krazy Kommie Ural Motos (3)
BMW Moto R60/6 Barn Find, 8,000miles
1959 VW #113 Deuxe Beetle, 36hp engine, stock
Junk, Rust, Arthritis, Crushed Spine,Broken Neck&Back
Memories, Peace Of Mind
facts & reality don't change because you can't handle them
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-06-2008, 02:01 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 310
Thanks for the note re the 380. I have a few other numbers (230 to 450) and I may now know a little bit about the breed since my initiation with 300CD in '92, but I was curious about this local one for somewhat less than 1000, but I can't recall the miles. I didn't think they were over 125M. Body has rust issues & older owner says it ran OK. I like the slanted rear window & the later 126 style. Might be the basis for some reclaimation work and turn into a driver. ( After the cleanup of the 6.9) Smaller v8 should offer a better mileage number but I don't know these things. Typical window issues that I can deal with but I really will look into the motor & trans. for issues---$$$s. Think the interior is OK. That's a plus.

Thanks, again.

sparky
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-06-2008, 02:45 AM
86560SEL's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: east Tennessee (southeast USA)
Posts: 3,015
As a previous owner of a 1985 380SE (from 2006-2007), they are excellent cars. Mine had nearly 280K when I sold it. Transmission was original and still shifted like new. It had NO leaks, but I think the engine was getting "tired". I needed injector seals, I think one of the cams was worn, but it still ran great and everything still worked on it!

Like the above poster said, the main thing is to make sure the timing chain, guides, rails and tensioner have all been replaced. This car has the dual chain, which is much better than the 1983 and older 3.8L which has a single chain, but on the 84-85 3.8L, its not the chain thats the issue, but the guides and rails wear out and replacement is critical. If not, get a quote for replacement in your area, then haggle price if necessary. Also, check floors and undercarriage for rust, especially if you live up north. I live in the south and my car was 100% rust free, but I had water getting in the rear floor and trunk because of a bad antenna seal. No rust developed though, as I caught it early and a $3.00 seal stopped the problem. Also check around the rear window for leaks. Also check HVAC controls, windows, locks, etc.

Overall, highly recommended.

Good luck!
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-09-2009, 12:15 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 310
Thanks for the help. Like most of us, we need a little assurance of what we are looking at. older diesels are no problem for me since they are pretty much bullit proof but the later gas models are still a mystery for me.

This one is non-negociable at 1,000.00 and the left side doors have surface rust bubbling along. i'm not worried about that as much as the the mechanicals. Want to know that I am not buying into a deep pit.

Sparky
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-09-2009, 09:13 PM
Phoenix, AZ
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 16
Yes I agree with the others. I had to learn about the giude rails the hard way but had I posted here when I first got my 85 380SE would have saved alot of time and $ Mine has 180, 000mi and had all the tell tale signs
of iminent catastrophy. so the first thing I would do is replace the 3 upper guide rails ---if they have even a little brownish color to them replace them. Other than that mine is perfect. I just purchased for my wife a C220 '95 very clean runs perfect and she wants my 380SE (not gonna happen)

Don Tarrow
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-09-2009, 09:47 PM
86560SEL's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: east Tennessee (southeast USA)
Posts: 3,015
To add to my above reply from last year....

I had a 1985 380SE with 276K miles with the original drivetrain. Engine still ran well (occasional stalling on turns, which the MB tech said was leaking injectors), but was starting to get a knock (worn out camshaft)... the original transmission still shifted perfectly, except it would slam into reverse. I also think my timing chain tensioner/guides and rails, etc were wearing out big time. Save for the dash, the interior was still like new and everything worked perfectly. I sold it to a local guy for $650. He was going to paint it and install new timing chain and parts.

I will never forget - one big issue with that car was "scrunching" door panels. The guy that bought it even commented on it. At the time, I did not know that placing velcro strips on the bottoms of the door panels would eliminate it. Oh well. Strange, the car did not have any squeaks or rattles though.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-09-2009, 09:56 PM
johnathan1's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Downey, SoCal
Posts: 1,185
If I were you, I would try to find a post-facelift model. (86+) Or better yet an 89+. There are lots of little refinements that aren't immediately noticeable. I wish I would have gotten the newer model over my 87...but oh well.

__________________
Current cars:
2000 ML55 AMG, 163k miles
1998 E430 Sport, 326k miles
1995 S320, 202k Miles
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:52 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page