Check Engine Light
 

I have an 1995 e320 sedan and the check engine light :eek: has been on for about 5k or 6k miles now. I have 98k on the engine. The car is running perfectly fine all this time. :D:confused:

1. I know they lights come on when there is a problem, but do they also come on at certain service intervals?

2. I am reading that folks here are getting their service codes, but from where? Is there a blinking light or digital no. that I can look at? Where is this located. My old Acura had a computer under the pass. seat, and it would blink, I just had to read the pattern and then look up the code. How do the people I read about do this, or, do they have the code reader?

3. The nearest M/B dealer is 60 miles from me, and it is extremely inconvenient for me to make an appt and the time to go there. It seems that I have been unable to find anyone in my area who could otherwise check the codes for me, is there any other option?

4. I am taking my car on a roadtrip from NY to CA, and with this light on, I want to make sure I'm not going to get myself in a jam. Other than that, is there anything else I should do, check timing belt, other belts, etc. I am very untechnically inclined when it comes to cars, so I have to mostly rely on outside help, so any advice to help me save money and time is appreciated.

Thank you.

Starting in 1996, all cars have ODB2. that means any ODB2 scanner will read codes.

What year car? most shops can read those codes on any car that new & even some parts stores can do that scan.

...year ?????

If it is '95 or older , you can get the codes under the hood... If '96 or newer , it requires a scanner , as MB Doctor said..
This is a perfect example of two complelely different answers and chassis, depending on the year...

E320 up to 95 is a 124 chassis and OBD1
..and 96 E320 is a 210- chassis with OBD2...completely different..

Soooooooooo..............

Reply to A Dalton
 

I am sorry, the year is 1995, I thought that would show up since I noted it in my profile.

Mr. Dalton, could you tell me, if it's not too much a bother, where the codes are located under the hood? Is it a blinking light, digital dispay, or do I need to plug in a machine? Thank you very much!

Also, is it a timing belt or chain in this car, and when should it be changed? Are there any signs to look for if it needs to be replaced? As I said the car runs great, I've got pep and 19-24mpg, no hesitations, etc.

Thanks again.

<I thought that would show up since I noted it in my profile.>


Year / Model will get you an answer. ,, Don't assume we know your car., b/c we don't.

Under the hood, there is a black box with a lid on it, in front of the battery,
Lift the lid and you will see a Led and a Button.
Key ON , press button for 2-4 secs , release ...the codes will flash back...write them down and post them. They will be in numerical order.
Clear codes bu pressing 8-9 sec.

That engine does not have a timing belt and the chain will go 200K , no problem..

Hello again,

Okay, I guess I didn't understand you when you said, "Key ON", I took that as car started; so after reading a few other posts very carefully, I realized it was the first.

That said, so, I press that button, as instructed to hold for 8-9 sec, and the red light flashes immediately once, but after that I don't see anything, nor will repeated attempts get it to light up again. So, I turn key off, wait a few, and try it again. Same thing happens. Again, I wait, I try again, and this time as soon as the light flashes once, I release the button, and it starts to blink. Once I counted 26 blinks, another I counted 4, are these the codes, am I doing this right?

You're close, except 8-9 seconds is to delete a code, not read it, 3.-4 seconds to read codes, repeat until the first code comes back up. When you're done reading, then delete, turning off ignition between each deletion.

I got it figured out, THANK YOU VERY MUCH, for all your responses. I posted a new thread asking about code 2, 4, and 26. I'm finding stuff now, I have lots of info on 26 and 4 so far for my mechanic. Thanks again to all of you.

My code post had a typo, so it is corrected..
Here is some basic info for that chassis:
If you get a single flash , there are no codes..if you get nothing, then the codes have been cleared and they will not re-appear , nor can they be accessed until the DM does all emmissions self-test. { Cycles thru]...
To clear multiple codes , you do not have to turn key off after each clear..you simply cear all with a 2 sec wait between each procedure and then turn key off for 10 secs , then On for 10 sec and Start the car. That will let the ecu cycle thru each/all codes and clear it auto . It will also clear a CE lamp ilumination.
The codes you get from that button are DM [ Diagnostic Module] and are ONLY emmissions related codes . If one of the other modules [ Engine Management/CC/EA ] picks up a code fault and it will effect emmissions standards , it gets shipped over there and if it repeats . then the DM [ N59/ module ] triggers the CE lamp and stores the offending basic code.
If the car does not have a CE lamp. it does not have an N59 module or the push-button feature These are called Federal version cars ...the ones with that feature are called Cal. version cars. Both have the 16 pin box, but the FED has no PB feature.
The main funtion of the CE and N/59 module was for Emmissions Standards Testing..you don't pass if you have a CE on and the button allows for CE offending code to be retrieved. The reason for No Codes until the N/59 does all self test was so a guy could not clear the codes around the corner and go get a Sticker.

But the real nice thing you want to know is that chassis also has access to the real diagnostic codes [ the last year of that feature. as the next year went to OBD2] ..that are stored in the actual running modules of the car.
And you can also get to them by building a simple $10 Led/Sw. tool that mimics the built-in PB one for CE module.

Go here and you can see all these different module and the codes they can store. That is where you want to be looking .

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/107630-e320-16-pin-dtc-charts-inc-pin-8-pin-14-a.html

Remember , a Single Flash on those is the desireable condition b/c then you know the car is in perfect spec. They are much more important and give a much clearer and specific diagnostics medium than the PS emmissions one does.
An example would be for you to get a code on the DM that says 'Ignition Fault"...now, if you took the tool and went to the Ignition Module [ socket 8 on that car], you could get a specific ignition code stored there that would point to the actual ignition fault... [ like a specific coil misfire, etc.]
This is the last of Flash code , so be happy you have it,even tho the next generation OBD2 is much better, but requires a digital scanner..
All your codes are listed on that site and the remedies are all listed in the Archieves... just searc using the code as reference....if you can't find them, post again and I will run thru the possible remedies and causes...or someone here will .............
They are common codes.

I created a comprehensive document with all the trouble codes for all the computer systems on the W124 with M104 (HFM) engine.

Click here to download it (1MB PDF file). This was created directly from the factory service documentation in the WIS.


Please note that the HFM system has mostly 3-digit digital codes, so the LED blink codes are only somewhat useful. Each LED blink code can have several meanings, and without a digital scanner, you won't know which of the several different items is the root cause of the error. For example, blink code 20 for HFM can mean upper or lower partial load, rich or lean. You don't know which of the four possible combinations is the real problem, without the 3-digit digital codes (051, 052, 053, 054 all translate into analog code "20"). Also, there are over a dozen digital codes which have no analog translation (#'s 114-144), see page 16 of the PDF file.

The document linked above is for the W124+M104 engine only... for the W124+M119 (V8 engines), click here.
For the W140 with M119.97x (V8 to 1995), click here.
I don't yet have documents created for the W124 with M103 or diesel engines.

Final comment... for those people who insist that old OBD-1 systems like HFM and LH have no live data available... click here to see a PDF file which proves them wrong. LH live data is on page 1, HFM live data is on page 2.


:euro:

Wow
 

I bet this gains sticky status very soon. Nice job Dave.

For those who do not have the Benz HHT scanner to get the digital sub code versions of the led codes, the old Snap-On ST/2500 will do the same and they are getting obsolete now , so you can see them on ebay quite often for very short $$$$$.
Good tool , but these OBD1 systems went out in '95, so for the average 124 guy , the LED readout tool is still a nice general code tool for the diyer guy..
ST2500 does do live data too....

Thank for that info , GSXR...there are still many here who do still have OBDI and the sub-code info is sometinmes just what is needed and makes the difference in a complete diagnosis...
AllData does also list both ..
Never see the HHT on ebay...wonder why????

I have the Snap-On scanner. I couldn't get anyone to provide me with any useful information on it, so I ended up buying several kits off eBay over 6+ months in 2008, and experimenting with them. I just sold my extra kits (had them advertised in the classifieds on this forum, with surprisingly little interest - go figure.) To get a Snap-On scanner with the Mercedes software, 3 main adapters cables, and required keys will usually cost at least $500... any less and you got a really good deal. Eventually I'll be posting a more detailed write-up on the Snap-On scanner, including exactly what items are required for use on the MB. I'm not sure what the "ST2600" is, or what MB systems it will communicate with.

HHT's are rare items. Each has a serial number. I believe they were the property of Mercedes, not released for sale even to dealerships, let alone individual technicians. Supposedly, when MB came out with the Compact 2 around 2000, the HHT's were shipped off to 3rd-world countries for use in areas that couldn't afford the newfangled equipment. Or something like that. I saw an HHT on German eBay recently but the description was vague and photo was no help... it wasn't clear if it included everything needed or not (particularly the proper software cartridges & cables). It went surprisingly cheap, too bad the seller wouldn't ship outside Germany, or take PayPal. Oh well. The new Star/SDS bootleg clones coming out of China look interesting, if you're willing to take a $1500 gamble. I'm waiting for more feedback on those first.


:1eye:

I have a friend who has the 2500 and he uses the keys and Benz Card
I will ask him............
...we used it in the HFM /104 with no priblems.

I have the Snap-On 2500. It communicates fine with the HFM and DM on the W124+M104, but it wouldn't talk to the EA/CC/ISC module. I suspect it's a software error (scanner is expecting only the 38-in cable to be used, instead of the 1-pin cable), but I haven't proven that yet. Haven't had time. I finally figured out the software error on the BM for cars with LH injection, the scanner incorrectly specifies key S-20, when key S-34 is required. Bet a lot of people think they have a bad BM because the scanner "won't talk to it", when it's actually the scanner's fault, lol. I stumbled across the fix for that purely by accident. I suspect the EA problem with HFM systems is a similar scenario.


BTW, I thought the "ST 2600" was a different manufacturer's tool... there is an Autoboss 2600 scanner, which is what confused me. But it looks like thatt may have been a typo in your previous post...? The Snap-On 2500 definitely does do live data. See below for a sample printout... this snapshot was taken with the engine not running, but you get the idea:

:zorro:

http://www.w124performance.com/image...e_printout.jpg