Ok trip to Radio Shack is now in order... Not sure I quite understand the actual way of use of it yet but will begin researching that.

Pretty simple..
Do a search..there is tons in there.

On that car, the tool requires 12v to operate, so make those leads red and blk, as auto electronics are basically red for pos and blk for neg. Those leads will just plug into the #1 pin for neg [ ground] and the red to pin #16 for 12 v positive. That gets your 12v power to the tool............
Now, I make the third wire a different color, just so you don't get them confused....the odd color just goes to the different pins ..each pin is wired to a specific Engine Management module .
Example ..Pin 8 is the HFM/SFI ignition module...you go to that pin and it will get the codes in that module.
The retrieve/clear procedure is the same as one uses with the built-in LED , with a couple of exceptions for memory clear...but I will get to that after you get the codes just to save any confusion...
You just want to go see if any of the mentioned pins have any codes , as the CE lamp does not tell you that...the CE lamp only tells one if there is an offending emmissions code in the built-in module [= N/59 emmissions module]
The pressing down of the sw. simply sends an Initiation signal to the module and that sig tells that module to send back the stored info in the form of a Flashed/Numerical format back thru the odd lead...you count the return signal flashes and look up the code in that chart I sent you too.
These two mentioned pins [ 8/14] on that car tell much info from EA/CC/ASR/IGN/Injection/Etc...so they are the main ones you want to know, and you will not have anyway of knowing that there is a problem til you buy the car...just b/c there is NO CE means nothing... Car Sales guys use the Old No CE trick all the time....you want to go get the real codes before purchase..I certainly would.
If you get a Single Flash for those module, you are real cool b/c that means the are NO codes ..a very positive sign of the electrical mangement systems on that car.
That car is the last of the OBD1 Flash Format, so guys like them as far as owner code access...........
*One last note:
LED's are POLARITY sensitive, so make sure you adhere to the correct -/+ wiring... so many guys make the tool and then report back that it doesn't work, only to find they did not check that. When the tool is done , a quick test is to try it across your battery terminals... rd to rd / blk to blk...press sw., if it does not light when you press the sw, it is not in polarity.

Got it... Power suppled correctly to the tester, then plug into the pins wanted to explore, flip switch, and count the flashes. One flash is good. More flashes means read corresponding list to determine reason.

Sounds fairly easy. Wonder if my independent has one of these I could borrow. Might be worth a call...

.... on a Related note... I am about convinced this car does have a Head Gasket leak and am going to proceed on that assumption. However that leaves me guessing at value. Many be someone will wish to venture a guess.

The car has 127K miles on it. Paint is above average. Clear coat intact. No bubbles. Interior is Leather and both it and carpet is well above average and all little things work as they should. Original working radio. New tires (perhaps not the best brand but brand new). AC and heat and vents work, all windows work from all their various positions, Locks all work. Spare, jack and tools and first aid kit there. All instruments work and instrument lights work as should. All original floor mats in perfect shape. All lights work and are intact. 2 owner all souther car. Clean carfax record

Things not working and needing attention:

Pull release for hood needs replacing
passengers side mirror broken but glass and pod intact. Probably needs replacing though. Might can fix. I can do body work and have facilities and experience to paint two stage. I figure a couple hundred to replace. Looks like someone who did not know how to go into the mirror tried to get into it the wrong way and did more damage than should have.
Sunroof slow to close. Quick to open.

Unknown but probably good. He inspected wiring for me and I have to now inspect in person. He relates that he pulled back all places he could find and wires looked normal and even maybe newish. Still need to verify.

His last number he said he needed was $3400

My thought was no more than $3000 (assuming wiring harness is good and figuring the head gasket is leaking) My indy has quoted me $1000 to $1200 for the job.

"leather and carpet well above average" means nothing. Either it looks great with no wear or it has problems.

With those miles, if color and condition are good, and it is expected to need a head gasket, you're in the right range at $3k IMO, for retail.

[QUOTE=cphilip;2048382]Got it... Power suppled correctly to the tester, then plug into the pins wanted to explore, flip switch, and count the flashes. One flash is good. More flashes means read corresponding list to determine reason.

No " flip the switch".... it is NOT a toggle sw...the switch has to be a Momentary/ Norm Open PB type switch...which is a push button switch..Normally OPEN ...you have to turn ON the key and then push the switch ON for 2-4 seconds.. that 2 sec. is the initiation sig to the module being tested ...release and then the code will flash back..write down the code and do the procedure again..they will keep flashing back in numerical sequence until the first one re-appears..you then know the module has gone thru the entire storage bank. Go to next pin w/odd color lead and do it again for that module. etc....
Ideal is a Single Flash, but I doubt you will see that .

It is near flawless as far as wear goes. Not even a lot of wrinkles in the leather. There is a tad of fiber wear off on the drivers floor mat but surprisingly not too much. No stains. The Zebrano wood clear coat has not started to crackle anywhere. No dash fade or sun fade and no cracks in any of the plastic parts. Appears a garaged car well maintained. Best I have looked at anyway. That partly the reason for my interest.

The color combination is that Goldish tan metalic with Cream interior. A nice color combination for the South. I wrote those codes down somewhere planning to look them up but seem to have lost the slip I wrote them on. I'll see if I can get a picture up of it. Maybe you can tell me the correct colors it has in the mean time.

I failed to mention that there is a new Water pump on there, and a new (saw a remanufactured sticker) Power Steering box on it and appears all new hoses. The wrong coolant is in the car now, but it is fresh and clear. No signs of chocolate moose under the oil cap, no signs of anything in the coolant but needs changed to be correct type.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...ip/MBGold3.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...ip/MBGold2.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...ip/MBGold1.jpg

Gorgeous colors, looks like Smoke Silver with Mushroom vinyl/MB-Tex interior. My '91 had the same colors only leather, timeless.

I can see why you're wrestling with the purchase. In my opinion, if you like the car, colors etc., the condition is right, paying a premium for it is not a bad thing. You could let this one go and the next one would be a white with blue interior ex-service car, and then wish you had ponied up the difference for the one you liked (unless you like the white/blue nautical thing of course, just an example). I bought two '94s a week apart, the first one a good low-mile car, then a black on black one came up with heated leather, I paid triple what I paid for the first car (and with more miles too!). If I could only have bought one, it'd be the one that makes me smile because the colors look just right, even for the extra money.

Buy it and hope the HG is okay? I believe that trade-in for a clean one is only around $2500 BTW, so take the guy $3000 cash (or a check), hand it to him and say: I can get this much today, and it's off of your year-end inventory. Have the rest of whatever you feel your top dollar is in your pocket if he lets you walk, go out to the car after telling him you'd like to take a last look, you can always hand him the rest and make it happen, no shame in buying a good car at a fair price. December is the lowest-selling month of the year for dealers, and the end of the year is when most of them have to count their inventory for taxes. I've bought around half of my cars in December, close to 2/3 of them in November & December, money talks.

<Not even a lot of wrinkles in the leather.>>

It's a Wagon ..with MB/Tex.

Which I prefer In an older model.

IIRC there is a slight difference between upper and lower exterior color. Two tone to a very slight degree. But its not terrifically distinct difference.

Yea sorry about the newby Leather reference. I do prefer the MB Tex too. It actually is nicer than the leather. Feels better to me. Has all the power options in the seats though.

It is a clean one. I first (well in the process) offered $2500 on it and would love to stay there. He told me yesterday he has $3400 in it and would take that. I said I would think on it and, of course, need to relook at it hard again. Verify for myself the wiring was good. He is, today, driving it with a bit more oil in it to test that out. I will probably sleep on it, hear what he has to say about the Oil fill test and decide if I want to offer $3000 and see where it goes from there.

The only other color I am keen on is White with Cream or Mushroom interior. I have looked at now five cars. Three of them white. All higher mileage and not in as near clean condition. All but one had indications of Head Gasket leak perhaps. One of those with 4 matic and a busted front boot. A real list of knicks and things to fix. Wasn't worth $1500 that I offered and he though it was worth way more. Most of the ones I have looked at or talked to the seller about were in the $2000 to $3500 range. One of those was over 230K with no documents. Not too torn up but not mint. A recent one I looked at had documents of new wiring and head gasket some 60K earlier in its life and it was $4900 and it sold while I was thinking about it. No big loss there but was a nice well kept car. Not as mint as this though. And I did talk to a guy about a white and blue one. Just couldn't get interested in that thing at all. And one last one I was thinking about looking at sounded and looked good in pictures but had had its "motor replaced" according to the owner. And it had a "front seal leak" also according to her mechanic who would fix it for $400 and she just couldn't afford to put any more money in it. She wanted $2800 for it. But the whole story sort of turned me off. Didn't make sense and was going to have to go see for myself. Might still go though. Could be something simple. I can't get much out of her as she doesn't seem to understand the technical questions. It could be that it had a new head gasket not a motor as she said he charged her $2000 for the job. The front seal could be the Timing cover gasket.

This one here, however, is the neatest tidiest of them all. Except for that head gasket it would already be in my driveway... but it still might be the one.

<<Yea sorry about the newby Leather reference. I do prefer the MB Tex too.>>

Ever go to a junk yard and look at the seats in an old 70's Benz that has sat in the junkyard with open windows and sun exposure for 10 years???? ya see these new looking seats and wonder why this car is in the junkyard..

Stuff is amazing, to say the least...thats why it is in the wagons..
..and if you do your vin, I think you will find the color of them to be Parchment, not Mushroom.

<It could be that it had a new head gasket not a motor as she said he charged her $2000 for the job.>

That would be about right $$$ wise b/c many head gasket jobs require the new Harness at the same time b/c once they are disturbed , they fail horribly...and any Tech who has done a few knows that , so they check that right up front before even quoting .....

I tried several times to get her to look or call and check her terminology but had no luck. Will just have to go up and see for myself I guess if I get interested in that one. Could be a plus. I know there would be no way a Motor would just be $2000. Even a junkyard pull would cost more than that to get ready and put in.

I have Tex in my old 83 and its seen better days. But surprisingly the passengers and rear seats are still pretty nice. I know it can last.

Not sure you can discern the slight two tone from this picture or not...

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r.../MBGold4-1.jpg

I think the Tex is some Warehouse stored Armor Vest material they must have came accross after the War...." Hey Hanz, what do you think we can use this stuff for...? "

They should make roofs out of the darn stuff! :D


Dang it Arthur! Good thing you mentioned it as I have forgotten completely to run this one through the Russian site!!! How could I have forgotten that source! Off to do that! What would I do without you?

Here is the original Tex in the old 83. Sure its pinked a bit and the horsehair is somewhat degraded but... still... 25 years in the southern Sun...

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r.../CocoMats4.jpg