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#1
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M103 ('89 300CE) difficult starting solved
Just want to pass this info onto others who may have the same "trouble".
Several months ago, my 1989 300CE (M103 engine) developed a characteristic where it was extremely difficult to start. It would start up fine, in the normal fashion, but once I let up on the gas pedal, the engine would die. It became progressively worse over time. Same problem, if the engine was cold or warm. I leaned to get really good with the brake/accelerator pedal dance. Once the car was on the road, it ran fine. Then one day, I discovered that when starting, if I "gunned" it up to about 4,000 RPMs, then it would run fine, (usually). I have my car serviced religiously by Enrique at MB Motors and had him take a look at it. The first two times I took the car to him, he couldn't fix the problem and did not know what caused it. He adjusted this and that, but the problem always returned straight away. I was this close (holding hand up with thumb and index finger about a half inch apart) to selling the car and purchasing a Toyota Highlander Hybrid. Finally, last Friday on a day off of work, I took it in to Enrique again and told him that it just had to be fixed and it was getting really, really "bad". His little computer showed no faults, so he started looking elsewhere. We took a look at the distributor cap, which was okay...but he didn't like the look of the rotor. It was really "chewed up". After he replaced the rotor, everything is now fine! Runs like brand new again. Love that guy (Enrique)! I really dread the day he retires and am not looking forward to that day at all. Oh, he also told me that if I do go ahead and get a Highlander Hybrid to replace my truck and 300CE...that I should keep the 300CE anyway. He says it is in really good condition and "will never go out of style". At almost 210,000 miles, he says it is barely broken in. Hard to believe that it only had 75K miles on it when I purchased it from the original owner eight years ago. Now, if I can only convince him to fix my cruise control. |
#2
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Ours had the same problem. After replacing:
-temp sensors (both) -coil -distributor cap -rotor -idle control valve -adjusting air meter plate (was jamming) -various rubber tubes -CPS (Crank Position Sensor) -OVP relay -Some fuses It now runs great!! It was having the same startup/idle issue as you had. My method of parts throwing paid off.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#3
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15 out of 20 times the problem is the cruise control amplifier, 3 out of 20 the problem is the actuator, 1 out of 20 is the column switch, and 1 out of 20 is the brake bulbs or its connections.
Good Luck!!
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1999 Porsche 996 Carrera Convertible 1994 420E - SOLD 1986 300E - SOLD, what a car 609 Certified |
#4
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It sort of works...sometimes. I can set it and it will sometimes stay on for a few miles, other times kick off pretty quick. Any idea what to check? Something I can replace myself? Thanks.
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#5
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It's always best to check the basics first, ignition system for sure. Thanks for the write up.
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Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. |
#6
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Well, the easiest and certainly the cheapest are light bulbs. Make sure you're using the correct, European bulbs. Even though a replacement GE or Sylvania bulb may have the indicated cross-reference code number, they draw slightly different amounts of current, and that's enough to affect the very sensitive cruise control in precisely the way that you describe. Intermittently, unpredictably, sometimes immediately, sometimes not for 30 miles. BTDT.
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1988 California version 260E (W124) Anthracite Grey/Palomino Owned since new and still going strong and smooth MBCA member Past Mercedes-Benz: 1986 190E Baby Benz 1967 230 Inherited from mom when she downsized 1959 220S Introduced me to the joys of keepin' 'em goin' There are only 10 kinds of people in the world--those who understand binary and those who don't |
#7
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Quote:
Now that I think about it, the only bulbs that have been replaced are brake light bulbs. And, if I remember, (it's been awhile), I did replace one of them with an auto store purchased bulb. |
#8
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ONLY the BRAKE bulbs place a role in the cruise control circuitry. The ones in the tail lights. That's it.
Keep in mind, it is highly unlikely they are the ones causing your problem, since your cruise control works some times. 15 out of 20 times the problem is the cruise control amplifier. Do a search, you will find everything you need. This is a very old topic and there are many discussions in the forum. Good Luck!!
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1999 Porsche 996 Carrera Convertible 1994 420E - SOLD 1986 300E - SOLD, what a car 609 Certified Last edited by pesuazo; 02-04-2009 at 12:45 PM. Reason: Add picture |
#9
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cc
three soultions to look into
rear brake bulbs All fresh fuses cruise control amp solder connections resoldered. |
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