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  #1  
Old 02-13-2009, 12:02 PM
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Repair: Discount for paying in cash?

I have a 94 C280 -- just turned 100k. The car is in great shape but needs the infamous head gasket (still has original) as well as new tie rod ends and ball joints.

Had the car in to an MB only, non-dealer shop for a look-see on the gasket. He gave me a price.

Discussion wound around to how slow his business is, they are hurting like everyone else, etc. Before I left he offered up that he could give a discount for paying in cash.

The price for the head gasket and full valve job was $2,500.

Aside from "other issues", what would be a fair price for me to offer him in cash to do the head gasket, valve job, and the tie rod ends and ball joints? I really don't have the extra money to do this and being able to get it all done for, maybe, $2,500 may be the difference between me getting the repair at all.

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1994 C280, dark green metallic
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1991 190E 2.6, Black
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2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic
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1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible
43k miles
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  #2  
Old 02-13-2009, 02:03 PM
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Cash talks, bull**** walks.
You take a risk entering into a deal like this. No receipt, no warranty.



Jim
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  #3  
Old 02-13-2009, 02:30 PM
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I am guessing he doesn't mean "under the table"....the Indy is trying to avoid paying 4-5% of the bill to the credit card company....and is willing to pass some of that savings on....I can't imagine the discount would be very big though. And I'd still want a receipt. The only difference is that it should say "paid in cash" rather than card.....

If he's trying to under the table it completely to avoid taxes, then he's a crook, and doesn't deserve your business.
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  #4  
Old 02-13-2009, 05:20 PM
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It is unnecesary to do a valve job on a 104 motor with 100k miles, unwise to do business with anyone that would tell you need it.

Last edited by deanyel; 02-13-2009 at 05:30 PM.
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  #5  
Old 02-13-2009, 06:14 PM
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A '94 C280 ain't worth a whole lot more then that $2500 repair. Unless the body and interior are mint, I would sell the C280 as is for $1500 to $2000 to somebody that can do the work themselves for just the cost of parts, and add to that the $2500 you were going to spend on the repair and buy yourself something ready to go.
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  #6  
Old 02-13-2009, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
If he's trying to under the table it completely to avoid taxes, then he's a crook, and doesn't deserve your business.
A lot of small business owners get POUNDED with taxes (I'm one of them), so some of them think it's okay to bypass the tax issue with a cash transaction (I'm not one of them - retail/wholesale sales). It's illegal, but it happens often.
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  #7  
Old 02-13-2009, 10:15 PM
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That sounds really high. My indy does M104 head gaskets all the time. I dont think he charges more than $900-$1200 depending on time into it....

I agree about the valves. They shouldnt need be touched. Straitforward job.
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  #8  
Old 02-13-2009, 10:18 PM
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I don't know what the car needs, but I give a discount for cash, ... if I don't have to pay the credit-card processing fees, I don't have to charge the customer for them.

I've been in a couple of businesses lately that have stopped handling credit-card transactions and only take cash.
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  #9  
Old 02-13-2009, 11:36 PM
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that seems, to me, to be mutually exclusive, great shape but needs a valve job, and a new front end suspension? That doesn't sound like 'great shape' to me...that sounds like a piece of junk to me...am I being too severe? Cause, as you well know, or maybe you don't, by the time you get the car back it'll be around 30 to 40% more and may or may not be fine. I wouldn't do that.....these cars will eat you alive financially if you do no know what you are dealing with...I swear they will eat you up and cause untold misery....watch it....
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  #10  
Old 02-13-2009, 11:54 PM
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I have a 1990 300TE, bought it for $3600 in 2006 with 120K and it now has around 135K on it. I have spent around $400 on it for maintenance, the wife drives it 20 miles each way to work, 40 miles round trip. The thing leaks around a quart of oil every month and a quart of Dexron VI as well, so out the door $10 for fluid. I'll be damned if I will spend the time and effort to fix these foolish issues for several thousand dollars over $120 a year for a car that is worth $2500 resale anyway. Car runs great, it's reliable and safe for the girl, looks great (if you like station wagons) and I couldn't care less if it blew up tomorrow...it won't but never the less...consider the 'Law of Diminishing Return'....these damn things are just cars...screw em.....
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  #11  
Old 02-14-2009, 01:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
I don't know what the car needs, but I give a discount for cash, ... if I don't have to pay the credit-card processing fees, I don't have to charge the customer for them.

I've been in a couple of businesses lately that have stopped handling credit-card transactions and only take cash.
Where do you work??
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #12  
Old 02-14-2009, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffmac View Post
t I wouldn't do that.....these cars will eat you alive financially if you do no know what you are dealing with...

And occasionally, even when you do know what you are dealing with...

Jim
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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles
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94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles
85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles
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  #13  
Old 02-14-2009, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffmac View Post
I have a 1990 300TE, bought it for $3600 in 2006 with 120K and it now has around 135K on it. I have spent around $400 on it for maintenance, the wife drives it 20 miles each way to work, 40 miles round trip. The thing leaks around a quart of oil every month and a quart of Dexron VI as well, so out the door $10 for fluid. I'll be damned if I will spend the time and effort to fix these foolish issues for several thousand dollars over $120 a year for a car that is worth $2500 resale anyway. Car runs great, it's reliable and safe for the girl, looks great (if you like station wagons) and I couldn't care less if it blew up tomorrow...it won't but never the less...consider the 'Law of Diminishing Return'....these damn things are just cars...screw em.....
And for what you own and what you do with it, your attitude is spot-on.
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  #14  
Old 02-14-2009, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffmac View Post
I have a 1990 300TE, bought it for $3600 in 2006 with 120K and it now has around 135K on it. I have spent around $400 on it for maintenance, the wife drives it 20 miles each way to work, 40 miles round trip. The thing leaks around a quart of oil every month and a quart of Dexron VI as well, so out the door $10 for fluid. I'll be damned if I will spend the time and effort to fix these foolish issues for several thousand dollars over $120 a year for a car that is worth $2500 resale anyway. Car runs great, it's reliable and safe for the girl, looks great (if you like station wagons) and I couldn't care less if it blew up tomorrow...it won't but never the less...consider the 'Law of Diminishing Return'....these damn things are just cars...screw em.....
I can agree with what you said. But you must have some pretty big puddles in the driveway.
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  #15  
Old 02-14-2009, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deanyel View Post
It is unnecesary to do a valve job on a 104 motor with 100k miles, unwise to do business with anyone that would tell you need it.
Here is the point -- If I'm going to pay to get the head gasket replaced, then that means I'm keeping it for the long haul. Most of these had the head gasket replaced between 60-80k. If I'm keeping it for the long haul, I might as well have the valves/seals done while it is apart.

As to the comment that someone made about my car being a piece of junk because it needed suspension parts -- how many don't need tie rod ends and ball joints at least by 100k miles?

The car is in great overall physical shape.

__________________
1994 C280, dark green metallic
105k miles

1991 190E 2.6, Black
191,500 miles
(sold to another forum member)

2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic
105k miles

1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible
43k miles
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