190e timing chain replacement question
 

My indy recommended that the timing chain needed replacement. He described the job in general and said that the tensioner could be turned (cranked) in until it released pressure on the chain. I have looked at the MB instructions for the job and 05-310 only discusses removing the tensioner.

Does the tensioner need to be removed or can it just be turned in? Any other hints on this job would be appreciated.

if yours is 88 190e 2.3 8v, then u need to take alternator out, since its in the way.
Mines I use a 32 MM socket to undo the big bolt. According to the book there's a bit of tension when release, it can shoot across. put a foam, rag to diffuse the shoot out.

My serpentine belt tension screw is screwed literally. As I release it , it never let the serp belt loose. In the end I used a Long screw driver to pry on the idler wheel to release the tension so I can slid off the belt. I also whacked the tension screw a few times, now It can neither hook up nor can come out. Tomorrow I will take power steering pump off to see if I can hook her back, ANybody knows what right way to do?

Tensioner MUST be removed & "reset". IF not you will break THE CAMSHAFT & possibly even more damage.

A question for the best & brightest 190e 2.3 engine
If a timing chain tensioner is not delivering the right amount of tension will it cause the chain to rattle?
kind of tack tack tack sick noise?

I thought the lower chain guide maybe broken will it make th kind of rattle too?
I thought my new upper chain guide will do the trick but the noise is still there.
Are these engines interference type ? So if the chain skips the valve will hit Pistons?
TIA

Tensioner MUST be removed & "reset"?
 

I replaced the chain on my 190e 2.3 and I'm wondering if I reinstalled my tensioner correctly.

I completely disassembled the tensioner and cleaned it up. When reinstalling, the book says "Push setbolt (37) and locking spring (38) into the assembled chain tensioner casing." I pushed the setbolt / spring in and tried to install the cap but it seemed as if there was too much pressure to get the cap on. So I tried to push the setbolt in further and it seemed go in another 1/2" or so. I was then able get the sealing cap on. Is this correct or is it possible to push the setbolt in too far?

Todd

Todd, I have the M103 manual which references the 300, 260, and the 190 2.6 engine. If your 2.3 tensioner is the same, then the inner "pressure pin" looks like a pencil; it has a point on one end which contacts the chain guide, and a small circlip on the other end. The circlip clicks along a series of sloped grooves in the outer housing, but cannot click backwards. So, installing the housing, then pushing the pin in through the 'clicks" is the way to install it. The spring and cap force the pin in as they are installed (and they are really tough to align and screw in, lots of spring pressure). So, really no way to do it wrong. If your 2.3 is different, then forget all of the above!

DG

Thanks DG. That is what I did (pushed it all the way in past the "clicks"). I didn't know if that might put too much pressure on the chain. Logic told me that the setting might be at the beginning of those adjusting grooves and then the tensioner would push further in as the chain developed slack.

Todd

The chain on these engines is rather short, unlike the V8's. So why does yours need to be replaced? My M103 is still on the original chain at 150K miles, or so.

The chain can wear. I think the manual has a procedure for measuring stretch. If it is worn, replace it. When I sold my '86 190E, I warned the new owner that it should be replaced soon. He was an old foreign car mechanic. He did not replace the chain. It broke and trashed the engine. A young driver in his household had already trashed the car (how many things can you run into in a short time-not a straight panel left on the car). Car went to salvage yard and parts are now all over the place going to good use.