IF the draw really is 110Ma, then something being left on makes little sense. Although I don't know what an small LED would draw, but a radio or incandescent bulb of any type will be drawing a couple amps at least.

Gilly

Thanks for sticking with me guys. I was out yesterday.

Jeff, there is nothing on the car that is not stock. Everything is still working except the autoaerial which has been totally disconnected (and is not a financially feasible fix). Post #8 readings are on 3 different scales and I don't think they are contradicting. Each scale just moves the decimal point 1 digit change. The trunk lights have been pulled. I have removed every fuse I can find, one at a time, and nothing moves the meter reading. Jeff, if you have one of these, are you aware of any other fuses than the passenger side of trunk and drivers side of engine compartment?

The other night I left the battery hooked up for 16 hours. The voltmeter start was 12.82
and end was 12.68 which is not a terribly big drop considering some of it could just be settling out. It is certainly much better than it used to be when I could not start it the next am and so I am thinking most of the big drain was an alternator issue.

Gilly, I agree the meter reading is very strange to me also, but the meter does seem to be accurate on other scales, like volts. I have a second (super cheap) harbor freight meter that I can't test the amps with but it is right on on voltages of several other 12v batteries that I have.

My daughter needed to borrow the car for a few days. In the mean time I left the meter in the trunk with a pencil and paper and asked her to periodically record the voltage on the battery and to let me know if it dropped below 12.5v (about 50% charge).

Sorry the thing is called a "Priority Start" and can be googled. It is basically a positive side battery add-on that automatically disconnects the battery if it drops to 11.9V. Unfortunately, I think 11.9v is probably too low for good battery health and possibly too low to start an S class.

Thank you, Chris

The amps readings are typically fuse-protected, at some point the fuse or fuses might have blown. You can remove the fuses and test them, they aren't used in the continuity or volt settings.

Gilly