Tested again, code 11 came back on pin 14... code 5 has not came back since replacing the brake switch.

I have been researching Code 11 on Pin 14 for quite a while now and seem to be chasing my tail. I have yet to find a single post where someone had this code and what the remedy or even procedure to troubleshooting it was. Does anyone know where to start with this?

Cod 11 is no CTP sw sig present at N4/1 module , so you want to look at the harness goint to throttle actuator assembly..as long as you are sure the cable is not sticking and you have slack at idle [ which you said you had]
Archieves.- EA Harness.

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A Dalton

Right you are.

I Removed the ETA, cut open the loom, and found cracked wires, exposed wires green wire ect. I went through THIS lengthy procedure and re wired the ETA. Fires right up now, no more lengthy 15 second starts. No surge, BUT what is strange now is that my idle is at 1800 RPMs... which is much higher than before the ETA rewire also when I rev it out a little in P, it sloooowly comes back down to the high idle...... ie I rev it out to 3500, it takes about 5 secs to drop back down to 1800.... any Ideas? I will research in the meantime.

Thanks much for the diagnostic help Arthur, that was some nasty wire and definitely at fault.


Job notes: IMO, A dremmel with a cutting disk is the best for removing the pin housing, its ugly at the end but I used a nice thickly insulated 18 g wire, so the housing would not close tight anyways. I wrapped it with allot of high temp tape and bought a wiring harness housing from the parts store. Also I am a noob solder artist, but I found tinning the ends of the new wire before putting them into the circuit board made it much easier than ramming in the bare wire.

Very Good..

I would now clear codes on that module and then clear the MEMORY on that one after you get a Sinle flash.
Then turn key OFF for 30 secs, ON for 20, and then start the car.

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A Dalton

Cleared the Memory, still same syptoms
Cant seem to find anything on my specific case, any suggestions appreciated.

Thanks

How did you clear the memory??

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A Dalton

no codes were present,

On pin 14 I held the button down 5 secs, 1 blink, held down for 10 seconds, with ignition on. Turned off ignition for 30 secs, turned on for 20 secs, and then started...

OK
Hold buton for 8 secs and release ..single flash should come back ..wait at least 2 secs and hold button down for 5-6 secs ..release..turn off key for 30 . On for 20, start

Do not hold button for more than 5-6 secs on Memory clear or the ECU will just go back into code retrieve initiation mode.

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A Dalton

When I hold for 8 secs I get no blink, only get a blink after 5-6 secs...

OK
There was a change for car before 8/93....

So. thry this: clear codes and get single flash by holding 5-6 secs

Than wait 2 sec , hold for 6-8 secs .. turn key off for a least 2 secs , on for at least 10 secs , and start car..that should get the memory reset to mean.
The concept here is you can not reset the memory UNTIL you get the single flash FIRST.

If that does not help , then I would look at the main harness and cable adjustment.

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A Dalton

I ripped off the big air hose to the ETA, tinkered around a bit with the linkage, noticed I had left the throttle return spring unattached, reattached excitedly thinking that was it, the throttle no longer took 5 secs to get back down to idle after revving, but still idled at 1500+ rpm.

put the hood all the way back, and with good sunlight noticed that on the ETA there is a section of the linkage that makes contact with the ETA body and makes a clicking noise when this happens, could get it to click when I pressed the linkage towards the ETA body, causing it to connect and make the click, so I adjusted the linkage out (towards the driver fender) and this pushed the linkage more towards the ETA body to make that connection at idle. SOLVED Idles at 700 RPM, no surge.

Thanks for all the help Arthur!

I went to smog it today, it was too rich and has a slight misfire it seems, so I am going to put in new plugs and post new results.

Its great to have the car drivable again!

please email me with any questions regarding this ETA rebuild, I have learned a lot and am happy to share the excruciating details.

I would change the 3 plug connectors under the coils..they are infamous for 104 Waste Spark mis-fires and are a maintenance item..

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A Dalton

Old plugs were fine, have not yet replaced the plug connectors.

Threw CEL - code 5 , I was happy to see this as I hoped it would be a clue to the reason my car more than double the gross polluter emissions bracket. (696 PPM of HC @ 1000 rpm, max is 100, GP is 250)



Went over with some diagrams from ALLDATA and found that the vacuum lines from the EGR valve and from the air pump were in each others spot, so putting them in their correct position seemed to be the ticket, took it to smog today and it passed!
82 PPM of HC @1000, huge improvement!

Still having intermittent start issues. will research more and post later

Seen that a couple of times...but not often... usually the 5 will be coupled with a 4.

But the 5 was your tip-off.

Something you did previously??

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A Dalton