Annoying steering wheel vibration W124
 

I'm sure this has been covered before, but here is the issue.

1994 E320. 91k

Slight steering wheel vibration ( also noticable in passenger seat back movement when empty ).

I was convinced it was bad tires; replaced all existing Michelins with new Michelins last week. Still there. It seems that the issue was exaserbated by the older tires, as it does not seem as prevalent as before. No signs of bent rim on new tire install.

Steering shock is new, idler arm bushing is new. It seems worse when the ambient temperature climbs above 80...

It is really beginning to irritate.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

When is the last time you had a front end alingment? Did you curb an wheel and have a bent area? A disc slightly warped? Since you just put on new shoes I will assume they balanced them for you. Probably time to crawl around and take a look see underneath.

Tires were balanced, front end alignment was spot on. The front discs are new....

What speed(s) do you experience the vibration at? My '95 E320 has a slight vibe between 60-80mph as well, and I have a fresh alignment. I suspect tires or ball joints in my case, but am curious if yours is similar.

Mine seems to start at -+60 mph and on up as well.

could be ball joints and or lower control arm bushings

my e320 did the same thing till i replaced the lower control arm bushings

x2 on above suggestions, also could be a front wheel bearing needs to be cleaned, re-packed, and tightened to spec. Or replaced...

My vote: tranny mount and/or driveshaft center support bearing/mount. Don't discount a motor mount in combination with these. Check the condition of rear suspension links, and toe out.

Also flex discs...

Its going in for a full checkup on Friday.... I'll let you know what we find.

Thanks for all of the replies thus far.

Jeff

Maybe driveshaft out of balance?

My bentley book states that a rumbling/humming in speed range from 68-93 mph could be from the driveshaft.

After balancing they recommend a rear differential vibration damper. MB part number 124 350 03 72.

Maybe this is feeling like a steering wheel issue?

I am having a similar issue that was greatly reduced by changing to original wheels and new michelin tires.

Lower control arm bushings. Replaced... problem solved.

Excellent, thanks for the follow-up on resolution. The bushings can be replaced on the LCA's without replacing the LCA's themselves, even on the '94-'95, correct? It's just the ball joints that require full arm replacement?

Yes....thanks for the follow up!

Okay folks, things like alignment, loose suspension joints and the like do NOT CAUSE vibration. If such things are not correct they can sometimes exacerbate vibrations, but they are not the source. Rotating items are the SOURCE of vibrations.

In the vast majority of vibration cases, the source is tire/wheel. Past that the next most common is driveshaft related.

I would get the car in the air and make sure there are no loose components in the driveshaft. Just shake around on everything. Then, if it were me, I would drop the driveshaft after marking orientation so I could get it back in the same orientation it came from.

With the driveshaft out you can inspect the flex discs and check the u-joint. Move the u-joint and see if you can feel a "notch" in it. The u-joint should move smoothly. If it does not, that will cause more vibration than you might think.

There are a few companies that do really good work on these driveshafts. There's one named Baer or something like that in Arizona. They did mine and once it was done, the car was silk smooth again.

If you are on a tight budget, however, there is a trick that can sometimes mask the vibration from a u-joint "notch." When reinstalling the driveshaft, put a washer between the carrier mount on the driveshaft and the body. Slip the washer on the passenger side and line it up with that bolt hole and slip the bolt through it and tighten up the bolts and give it a try.

With the center u-joint, the joint rides in almost the same position all the time, wearing this notch into the cross and cap. By changing the position ever so slightly you can sometimes get it away from rotating on that notch. It's worth a try.

Hope this helps,
Larry