Hello. First things first, this site has been extremely useful. Thanks to those who have helped me out. Learning about my vehicle has been easier than I would have thought.

Another question though. I am replacing the discs, pads and sensors on the front of my vehicle and have been having trouble getting the bolts that hold the caliper to the vehicle loose with my own strength. Searching the forum, I have seen a couple of ideas such as a cheater pipe or heating up the bolts. I have no idea if locktite has been used on the bolts and am wondering if anyone has conquered this problem. Will penetrating oil work? Do I need some air powered tools? The pads are out, caliper working fine but rotors are done. Any ideas are welcome.

Thanks.

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The Dude

1987 560 SEL

Use an 18" breaker bar............they'll release.

A combination of penetrating oil, a breaker bar and 6-point socket should work fine. Per the book the caliper bolts should be replaced; however, I have always reused them without incident.

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Fred Hoelzle

Why are you removing the caliper bolts?

Or is this a later model with floating calipers? In which case there is what, one per side? Does it take locktite?

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Are there locking tabs on the mounting bolts?

No locking tabs. The OE bolts are coated with some type of plastic on the threads to prevent any possible rotation once installed.

The "plastic" is indeed a form of Loctite.

Mercedes specifies that these bolts be replaced and NOT reused.

On the W210 I just did, I used a floor jack (carefully) to raise the wrench on the side that required it. On the other side, I simply stepped on the wrench. The "raising" portion has to be done with care, as the goal is to rotate the wrench and to NOT lift the car off the jackstand.

Of course it would be easier with the car on a lift, as the wrench motion would be horizontal and you could put some weight behind it.

ANY kind of caliper--floating or not--has to be removed before the rotor comes off.

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Kent Christensen
Albuquerque
'07 GL320CDI, '10 CL550. '01 Porsche Boxster
Two BMW motorcycles

Thanks for the ideas. Bought a 18 inch breaker bar yesterday and the extra leverage worked out great. Got the bolts off and they did have some blue lock tite on them. Calipers are now hanging by some wire as I await the parts. Both calipers are functioning properly which is a positive. My only regret is that I ordered PBR pads but I think they'll do the trick. Cheaped out a little on that one. If I do re-use the bolts should I apply lock tite to them or should I just try and track down some new ones? After this it's time for a new monovalve.

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The Dude

1987 560 SEL

Yes, missed the disc comment.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I would put locktite on them.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Something I learned awhile ago, use a box wrench held firmly in place and smack the open end with a dead blow hammer. That will usally loosen a tight bolt/ nut. The same trick can be used to snug one down too. Don't forget to use WD-40 or PB Blaster.

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If it ain't broke take it apart and find out why.

1983 300SD, 4 speed
1994 C280
1987 300TD wagon
1996 HD Road King

Ride in Peace Eric Peterson, Harley of Macon

I am doing this job right now. Use blue locktite and apply to about 1/4" or the bolt about 1/8" in from the end.
I let it dry overnight and then tighten to 87 ft/lbs.
The pads that were in there had floating plates and the replacement pads had fixed plates so I applied anti-squeal paste and anti-sieze on the sides.
I'm not thrilled that for the backs the pads I got are ceramic, I don't know what to expect. I am happy with the fronts being normal type.
I've done a few brake pad replacements before, this time in order to push the caliper pistons back in I released the bleed valve - WOW what a difference, you can almost push them back in by hand. Much eaiser that a "C" clamp. I am not worried about air getting into the lines, I will pressure bleed when I am done.
1995 e320 w/207k