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88 300CE A/C pressure switch??
I'm looking to buy a 1988 300CE with 171K miles and the seller who is a mechanic said that everything works except for the A/C because the pressure switch is bad. Is this an easy fix? His uncle left the country and he is selling the car for cheap $. He tells me that there are no head gasket leaks and he changed the brakes and rotors and brake master cylinder and says that I can drive this to FL without a problem. I can get this car for $1300 and the paint and condition looks excellent being garaged all its life. Good deal? Will these cars run to 250K? I have owned a 86 300E, 94 E320 and a 95 E320 wagon. I wasn't thrill when the evaporator went on my 95 E320. What are the known faults of this generation of W124s? Thanks.
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<except for the A/C because the pressure switch is bad. Is this an easy fix? >
A much more probable diagnosis is the pressure switch is not closing b/c the a/c system has No Refrigerant left to close the switch..meaning a leak. .. press the shrader in and see if there is any pressure left in the system. |
I expect that Arthur is most likely correct.
As far as these cars going 250K, I sure hope so. If not, mine with 310,000 on it would be on borrowed time and I KNOW that I wouldn't be afraid to drive mine to Florida. |
Thanks, guys. Will pick up tomorrow and check for leaks.
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prob is too low to cut sw in, but that means it has leaked out.
This is the sw that you should be concerned with. http://catalog.peachparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1988-Mercedes--Benz-300ce-Climate--Control&yearid=1988%40%401988&makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&modelid=6172%3AMBC%7C1497%3AED%7C1 0000013%40%40300CE&catid=242213%40%40Climate+Control&subcatid=242239@@A%2FC+Pressure+Switch&mode=PA As you can see , if the system dos not have at least 2 Bar pressure left in it, the comp will not come ON. But, you now need gauges to see what you have to work with. Asking pressure related questions w/o giving us some readings is like testing an electrical circuit Voltage w/o a meter. R12 has different fitting than 134a, so if the old fittings are still there, it is prolly still R12, but with all the shadetree refer guys and PO stuff, you never know . If it were mine , I would first jumper the sw to see if the system at least works [ comp engages] , and if YES , then you might want to pull what is in there out and recharge R12. But look for leaks first........... It is very easy for the seller to tell you it just needs a sw..he prob already jumpered the sw and found out is was not "Just da switch"..................... |
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