Mercedes 1990 300e
 

Hello Mercedes friends.
I am considering buying a 1990 300ce.
I do not know this model.
I spoke with a Mercedes mechanic and
he said run away from this car.
Is he correct or is he flabbergasted from overwork.
I called Mercedes and they have a 3 week wait for a inspection.
Any info would be appreciated,
Thanks Edwin

Need more information
 

Has the mechanic seen the car specifically? Was he looking at it, listening to it? Did he charge you a fee for his appraisal? Lots of mechanics just like a lot of people like to "shoot off their mouth" just to see someone's blood pressure rise. The car as made is a good one. I think it was built with the M104 single cam engine which is a wonderful engine. The car as built is a very good driver performer. What did the mechanic see that you are not telling us. The engine wiring problems are mostly 92/94 models, so that should not be an issue. Watch out for rust. If you see rust, run!

Why did he say run away from this model? He's a fool, you should be running away from HIM!

The early CIS-E M104 engine in that car is phenomenal. If a head gasket hasn't been changed on it in the past it will need a head gasket just like all 6 cylinder W124s. The earlier cars didn't get that infamous biodegradable wiring harness, so you're safe. These engines feel as if they're power never ends. You step on the gas and you're going and going and it feels like you'll keep going until the wheels fall off. Maintenance is a little higher cost than the M103 counterpart, but I'd say it's worth it.

Did you ask that so called Benz mechanic what the problem with the car was that he should ever so kindly suggest you run away from?

Junqueyardjim,

The M103 is a single cam. Both the CIS-E and HFM M104 are dual overhead cam.

Sorry about that
 

I checked ti make sure what engine it had, M104, and then confused it with the M103. I have the M103 single cam and love it and have heard the M104 is even better, though maybe a bit more complex.

The sound of the M103 between 4000 and 6000rpm makes you want to use huge amounts of gas all day long! :D

I think he's basically correct.

For MOST of these cars, if they haven't been meticulously maintained, they are ready for scrapping.

They're a $2k car with lots and lots of $2k repairs just waiting to happen.

Head gasket
Transmission
HVAC
Fuel injection

Given that the coupe is a little more "special" than the sedans, chance might be slightly greater that some work has been done. Evidence of recent repairs would be great to have. I'd pass for sure if rust repairs are needed.

well, I bought a 1990 300 a couple of years ago and it took me awhile to get my chops down on it repair wise as it was my first mercedes after many bmws. it was frustrating at first to get him straightened out but now that he is stable i much prefer him to my wifes bmw 325i....actually it's an excellently constucted automobile, not a sports car, but extremely solid to the point of being goofy. this thing is a brick and easy to drive and very comfortable as well as being inexpensive to maintain if you do most of it yourself. here's a stupid, non-relavent, example of mercedes vs bmw part costs. i was screwing around with the hood ornament star for the 300 and it came apart by accident...no way i could get it back together...finally said screw it and went to the local mb dealer and bought a new one for $30 and they installed it. the wifes bmw needs a new hood badge and that's $40 from the dealer, not even close in value and complexity to the mb part....not even close... i would recommend the 300e W124 as a solid car as well as investment if you are willing to work with it until you get it where you want it.....i could ram my 325i with this 300TE and probably not even notice, this is solid framed monster..i dig mine at least

Price and condition.

The 124 body is IMO the best "modern" body Mercedes engineered and built.

However, even a coupe (the CE) can get to the end of its value if neglected or damaged enough.

For a good example though, these cars are much easier and less expensive to maintain than anything built since.

It all boils down to one thing.

Maintenance. My car has maintenance records dating all the way back to 1993 and how much did I pay?

:D:D:D

$800. Yep, that's right.

Bad transmission and horrible maintenance from the 2nd owner (only for a year).

I put $1200 into the car and I'm driving it every day without a hitch. All I did was give the car some maintenance it hasn't received in a year (wasn't driven much in that year) and I'm still driving. The transmission blew out, but it's been replaced with a $70 transmission from a junkyard until I get the last piece to my 5 speed manual swap.

Why not let us know some information about the car? Mileage? Price? Overall condition? I'm sure we can find a few weak points in the car for you to negotiate a price on.

It's a used car everything isn't going to be perfect. It's going to need some work..that's why it's a used car. :)

Good luck.

Here is a reply from my mercedes mechanic.
 

I was talking to my friend Andrei, he was off and had a bit more time to talk to me and kind of likes working on those cars as " they make him think" he was saying they have hydrolic lifters and and to check the oil as one or some of the valves may not be opening all the way. Causing missing heart beat sound. If this is the case and the car has been driven 20,000 km or so like this it more than likely caused valve damage and will need the head rebuilt. Another thing to check is the spring mount on the front end; scrape off the under coat and check that weld top and bottom. there may also be a factory recall on that mount and the dealership will repaire that for you. it also sounds like you can get the vin number and take it to the dealership to see if there are any other recalls it needs. Andrei was also saying that that car is mechanicle fuel injection and the parts relating to that system are expensive (for example the fuel regulator is $640 rather than $80) they are tricky to fine tune and they are important to be tuned properly ( if it is too lean it could burn out the injector)
also check for head gasket leaks as this engin is prone to leaks; oil or water around the head.
Also check for water leaks around the cowling and trunk. I guess water can make it's way in and make things mildewy.
If all these thing check out sounds like you will have a great running car.

More info on 1990 300ce
 

Gee you all are great with your info.
Here is some more info on the car.
Its basically in mint condition.
Ac not so cold thou.perhaps 75%

NO rust. 110 kilometers.

Asking price is $7,000.00 CDN

Everything seems to run well during a test run,but during idle
it seems to miss a heart beat ,kinda like a heart murmer.?
Also the owner said Mercedes had to change the odometer at 108 k
as it was not spinning.The owner has receipts.
I am not sure why the odometer would stop at 108k.
The local dealer here would only book me in 3 weeks for a inspection.

Please note I posted more info from a M. B mechanic.
He is 1200 miles away so I can not actually take him the car to inspect.
Thanks again Edwin

Odometer failure is a common issue on all the older MB's.....and easily repaired as well. A miss at idle could be a number of things.....I'd look into it, a $7,000 car should have no such issues.....and the A/C should work.

Mercedes300 ce 1990 ish
 

Here is some more info I recieved from a Mercedes mechanic regarding a1990 300ce I am (was?) considering buying.

Mercedes-Benz 300CE Problems 1990ish


Brakes

• Due to the size and materials of the brakes on these vehicles, the brakes start to squeak around the 50 percent wear point. The brake rotor surfaces become uneven, causing a lip to form at the outer edge of the rotor. Because of this, the rotors are usually replaced when the pads are worn (pad life varies depending on driving style and terrain).
• Brake fluid should be flushed every two years to prevent premature anti-lock brake system (ABS) failure.

Engine

• Oil leaks develop from the head gasket and timing cover gasket; these leaks should be repaired before the engine oil and coolant intermix.
• The part that attaches the distributor rotor to the camshaft can break; the starter will still crank, but the engine will not start.(change this with the first tuneup there is an updated part for it that should prevent further problems)
• Radiators break due to degradation of the plastic tanks and fittings.
• Older vehicles should have the cooling system serviced even if the mileage is low. The hoses can look good on the outside, but the rubber can degrade and erode on the inside. If not carefully checked, the hoses can burst at any time.
• The water pump can develop leaks. When replacing the water pump, the drive belt tensioner should be inspected and most likely replaced as well.
• Motor mounts fail, causing engine vibrations to transfer to the body. The motor mounts should be replaced or the transmission mount may fail. (makes a big diff in how smooth the engine feels)

Exhaust & Emissions

• A rough running motor or lack of power can be caused by the distributor cap and rotor, bad ignition wires (or their resistors), or valve cover gasket leaks. When the valve cover gasket leaks, oil can pool where the ignition wire resistor connects to the spark plug. The resistor can fail or the spark plug not fire because of the short circuit through the oil.
• Fuel leaks, erratic or rough engine operation, and fuel economy issues can be caused by the failure of a fuel system component called the EHA (electro-hydraulic actuator) valve.
• Emissions air injection pumps can seize up, causing a loud squealing noise possibly followed by smoke. The air pump pulley stops turning, but the drive belt does not and this friction causes the noise and smoke. If the engine is not turned off, the belt will snap, turning on the alternator/battery warning light.

Suspension & Steering

• Irregular and premature tire wear can be caused by the lower control arm bushings cracking and causing excessive movement at the control arm pivot point. Ball joints can also wear out prematurely, causing similar tire wear symptoms.
• The tie rod ends, drag link, and idler arm in the linkage of the steering system can wear out.
• There is a steering dampening shock that will leak fluid when it goes bad.
• A knocking noise from the front end can be caused by cracked strut tower bushings.
• Vehicles with level control that ride harshly in the rear (no give in the suspension, like you are riding on a brick) may have bad dampening actuators. The actuators should be replaced in pairs.

Drive Train

• A vibration felt through the center floor of the vehicle can be caused by driveshaft flex discs, which crack and shred, causing excessive driveshaft movement. Not repairing these can cause damage to the driveshaft center support bearing, or, in the worst case scenario, damage to the transmission or differential. (check this, its a lot cheaper to catch this early)
• High mileage vehicles can leak from the transmission oil seals.
• High mileage or older vehicles develop leaks at the differential seals and cover; the whole unit needs to be resealed to repair the leaks.
• The bushings for the shifter lever wear out to the point where they break and fall out. This causes excessive movement (loose feel) in the shifter lever and a clanging-type noise when changing gears. (cheap & easy)

Electrical & Lights

• The insulation degrades on the engine wiring harnesses because the insulating material falls off of the wires and leaves the conductors exposed. This can cause many problems depending on which wires are exposed and what they touch.
• Throttle valves can suffer electrical failure.
• The battery can leak acid onto the engine compartment wiring harness, causing damage to the wiring from corrosion. (check this before purchase, you dont want to repair this)

Heating & Air Conditioning

• Due to wear of mechanical parts in the control head, the buttons on temperature control assemblies work erratically or not at all. These control heads need to be replaced for this concern or when the display screen starts to fade out.
• Due to the vacuum actuators going bad, temperature blend doors in the HVAC system may stop working.

On top of that list I suggest:
- Changing the fuel injector seals (if original they will be leaking vacuum by now)
- While the injectors are out have them tested for flow pattern and leakdown (if they have never been done they are almost guaranteed to have a fault).
- Check the front fuse box (under hood near hinge on drivers side) for signs of water infiltration, might cause intermittent electrical problems in future.
- Those and O2 sensor and other vacuum leaks are the main problems for poor fuel economy & smooth engine running.

Well, anywayt
 

Not much anyone can tell you about the car at 1200 distance. just like we can't. I don't like what you describe as a miss at idle. What does it do under load. Put it in gear, hold the brakes tight, and give it some throttle. Then if it misses you will really feel it and will have to deal with it. If it disappears under load, you can probably live with it. Make sure that the insulation is not falling of the engine wiring harness, though I understood that to be a problem that started in 92. But I think the $7000.00 CDN is quite high. It would seem to me that $3500.00 CDN should buy it.

Find another mechanic, many of these items are either normal for any car, and several don't apply to this model as it doesn't have the items mentioned.