E320 1994 Wagon ASR on limp home mode - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

radunegru · #1 08-17-2009, 08:45 PM

E320 wagon 256k
The ASR light came on a soon as I touch the accelerator pedal.
If I restart the car it idles perfect until I put it in drive and press the gas. Actually even if is in P or N it still does it.
I manage to return home by pushing the gas harder and then released the gas pedal to let it shift. Once at 65mph I was able maintained. No cruise control though.
After 25mile run, I stop to a rest area for few minutes, and upon restarting eventing disappears and car came back to normal.
I did check the codes and got the folwing:
Built in module: codes 4, 5, 6
Pin 8: code 8
Pin 14 codes 2, 3, 14
Car drives normal now, but taking in consideration that is my daily 120mile driver and I need it in perfect shape, I don't want to take a chance.
where should I start?
Just to mention that The wiring harness was updated at 145k and the throttle actuator at 155k.
I did have ASR on for several times but the car did not go in limp mode.
Few hours before the incident I felt the ABS pump pulsating and ended up with lighting up the ASR but no limp mode.

Give me an Idea where should I start?

radunegru · #2 08-18-2009, 05:50 AM

any ideas ?!

94Wagenmeister · #3 08-18-2009, 08:10 AM

Radu - sorry, no idea. This is a problem I would go right to a reputable indy with, or consult via the various discussion boards - which you obviously are (but there are others...). All I can say is the intermittent nature of the problem would indicate a short of some kind. Or, god forbid, another bad harness. There are lots of 'replacement' harnesses that I'm told aren't much better. Good luck and keep us posted.

P.S. I'd sure be commuting in the diesel!

radunegru · #4 08-18-2009, 09:48 AM

How about a defeat switch for asr?

Arthur Dalton · #5 08-18-2009, 10:08 AM

I would start by replacing the brake lamp switch and making sure you have a 1/4" slack in the cable adjustment.
Then clear all codes and retry it.

EricSilver · #6 08-18-2009, 11:33 AM

I have the same car (sedan) same problem (at times). It is almost certainly electrical. Try removing the battery cables and cleaning them thoroughly, and then the battery posts.

The neutral safety switch on the transmission may also play a role, but if you have not had problems with that, ignore it.

As Arthur pointed out, the brake switch may be faulty (which reminds me to replace mine).

On my car the problem would occur on the first start of the day, and only if the car had been sitting for 18+ hours (less in humid weather), and if the weather was very warm, very cold, or very humid.

radunegru · #7 08-19-2009, 10:48 PM

I did replace brake light switch about 20k ago. Do they go bad that fast?
Also is there any possibility to have a stuck throttle cable?

anziani · #8 08-20-2009, 11:47 AM

I have had the same problem on my '93 300CE. Made all of the changes suggested including a new set of tires. Most experts on the forum think it is an electrical problem as does Beckmann Industries who I called. Eric Silver has had the same problems as I. However, it occurs very infrequently now on my car. I am going to replace the temperature sender for the engine control and clean the ASR(?) sensors on the wheels. Arthur Dalton and M.B. Doc have offered many helpful suggestions. You might want to look up my and Eric Silvers posts on this .
Anziani
'93 300CE 174K
'95 E420 117K

EricSilver · #9 08-20-2009, 12:23 PM

But be warned: Some of my posts on this issue are wildly speculative, perhaps even borderline insane.

I am solidify convinced, at this point, that the problem is electrical and the culprits are the battery (overdue for replacement; the Neutral Safety switch (removed a defective Febi and replaced the original which works fine in warm weather, but not in the winter; or the brake switch, which I always seem to overlook, so I will replace that first.

radunegru · #10 08-24-2009, 08:53 AM

Now itdoes not start at all. Actualy it doe not hold the idle.
The battery is good the votage rgultor is maybe 3 months old.
I will change the brake light switch and OVP today.
How can I bypass the neutral safety switch just for test purpose?

EricSilver · #11 08-24-2009, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by radunegru

Now itdoes not start at all. Actualy it doe not hold the idle. The battery is good the votage rgultor is maybe 3 months old. I will change the brake light switch and OVP today. How can I bypass the neutral safety switch just for test purpose?

The only time that happened to me was after the car sat in the rain before the first start of the day.

For clarity, are you seeing the ASR light when this happens?

There is a way to jump the NSS -- try searching "jump+NSS" or jumper+NSS or jump+neutral (or jumper+neutral). However, if the car is starting, it is not an NSS fault.

How do you know the battery is good? (My battery works great, but I am certain it is not good because it leaks acid and my dash lights dim significantly when I crank.)

radunegru · #12 08-24-2009, 04:50 PM

Yes asr comes on and strays on
No abs light though!!!

radunegru · #13 08-24-2009, 09:17 PM

to tel you what have I done:
Replace: OVP , voltage regulator for the alternator, all three light bulbs, brake light switch.
Lubricate Throttle linkage,
Adjust the throttle cable to 1/4"

No positive result yet

EricSilver · #14 08-24-2009, 09:26 PM

Does the ASR go away after a specific time interval, and does not return until the next day?

Try this too: Disconnect battery. Clean the cable contacts, and the posts with a wire brush or sandpaper until they are shiny. Be sure to have your radio code handy.

radunegru · #15 08-24-2009, 09:37 PM

it does not go away.
Upon restart it goes away but a soon as I touch the gas pedal it goes in to limp mode and ASR lights up.
I did clean the battery and tight the cables.

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