Ok...here is a a definite newbie questions and a small warning about the FEQ Axles I installed. I noticed today that the outer joint connected to the tire was 'loose'. I mean it kind of rattled in the wheel bearing. I popped off the center cap of the wheel and checked the center bolt to the axel and it was tight, but the outer joint was still 'loose'.

1.) I am not certain but I am pretty sure, it shouldn't be loose right?

2) As a fix on each side I swapped back to the older center axle bolt and spacer. I did steal the new washer as the the old washer was kind of bent inwards. I tightened the bolts back down and poof! No more 'looseness.' Is this correct?

3) One last question. Try as I might, I could not get the inner spacer that was previously installed to fit on the right inner joint and also push on the C clip - there was simply not enough of the groove to get that darn clip on. The left side was extremely tight with the old inner spacer but I did manage to jam the C clip in there but it seems like that side (left) clip wants to almost pop out. Am I ok here on both sides? Did I miss something? Everybody says that the spacers must be used but it didn't seem possible. However, this was my first time doing it so its entirely possible I missed something. If I grab the inner joints and practically sway on them (do a pull up and I am 200lbs) they don't budge.

Thanks
Doug

Did I do this right? (and yes, I should have gone with rebuilt but I had already got the FEQs delivered....)

Probably the wrong size spacers. You might need thinner ones so the C clips can fasten the axle splines properly.

When you install the correct spacer, the axles should hardly move at all laterally. The beveled surface of the splines should be covered by the spacers so the inside surface does not get in contact with the spider gear shaft.

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On the inner connection there are many sizes of "select" fit thrust washers.

You need to measure the 1 that doesn't fit & get a thinner 1 from dealer.

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The inner spiders show signs of a leak. The picture makes it seem wetter than it really is. The inner and outer CV boots look and feel firm, with no tears, soft spots, or signs of leaking grease.

Some questions:

What's the more likely source of the leak, a diff seal, or an oil seal in the axle?

Any known reason for a mix/match of a bolt-on and can-style axle, other than perhaps that's what the PO sourced in a previous repair?

If it's the oil seal in the can, is rebuilding it worth it, or just go with a replacement axle?

No endorsement for the following link intended, it's just the only other place I've seen a "bolt-on" style spider. Everywhere else shows cans. https://**************.com/node/6121

Car: '83 300CD, auto trans

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In this thread there are two references to Spider gear or spider gear shaft. I can not find any pictures of this so can someone make it clear to me what that is? Is it on the axle or differential and where so?

YAK: Check those allen bolts on the inner part of the right axle. On mine, I was shocked to find they were very loose on one of my axles and not the other. I could squeeze the boot and and hear a hiss (air leak) and it turned out to be a gap in between those metal plates that those allen bolts hold together. I tightened them up and the hiss went away when I squeezed the inner boot. This might be the leak and if it is, by the looks of it, you have loss some grease in there and might need to repack it.

If you replace the asterisks in the above link with "mercedes source" with no space, you should be able to see a photo of the differing spider types.

From your description, I take it to mean you have the "bolt-on" style, as shown on the right in my photo. Is that correct; and if so, are both of yours the same?

Attached is also a scan from the W123 shop manual page 35.1-660/2 with the diagram of the axles referring to the can style assemblies just outboard of the CV boot (when referring to only the axle) or the parts nearest to the hub and the differential as "spiders." I don't know why, that's just what the book says.

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Originally on my car, both were the same and were the 'can' styles. When I ordered the new FEQ ones, they arrived as the 'bolt' style. I did replace both because I just didn't want to go under the car again or remove the rear end differential twice. As for the loose 'bolts' they were only loose on one of the new axles not on both. Again, squeeze the inner CV boot on your right side. If it 'wheezes' could be those allen bolts are loose.

Doug

But getting back to Part 2 of my original question:

On the wheel side of my axles, there should be no play in that side correct? Am I Ok to use the old shorter center bolt and shorter spacer on this bolt (its about 1.5 inches long) as opposed to the newer bolt and spacer that came with the axle (about 2 inches long.)