Ok, I bought the shock today (PN begins with 103...? same part as 103 motor?). The man told me that it isn't too hard and doesn't take much time either. But we are looking at it from two different perspectives (ie, one being experience level).

What do you guys think? How hard is it to replace? Could someone with the MB service CD please e-mail me the instructions on removal for an M104 motor (W124 chassis)?

Thank you.

__________________
2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver)

Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)

Greetings David,

Annoying sound that dampner makes, isn't it? Didn't figure that was the part making the noise until I think I prodded every part under the hood till I felt the vibration of the shock making a metal to metal contact. A previous poster was right, an o-ring would most likely do the job seeing as it's the top rubber that squishes down enough to allow the metal to make forward contact to the mounting area. I too spent the $22.00 for the new shock and it seemed pretty easy to install. I removed the fan shroud, inner ring first then the actual shroud, easy without anything more than a screwdriver to remove the two clips that hold it in place on the top then lift up. The bottom bolt of the shock can now be gotten to, small hands required or patience. The lower bolt on mine was a 12mm while the top bolt and nut were a 13mm. I loosened the top first so I could extend the shock out a bit and have something to hold onto as I loosened the bottom. Surely the bolt and washer will drop through the bottom of the car on the lower unless you have a steady hand and can pull the shock and bolt out in between the small clearance area.
Installing the new one is just the reverse. Install the lower bolt first, putting it in the hole of the shock and guiding in down until it lines up with the lower hole, then using the socket and a small extension hand turn the bolt to ensure it threads correctly, then tighten. Push the shock shaft down, align with upper mounting hole, install bolt and nut and tighten. Your done and the noise is gone probably for another 100,000 miles. Just guessing on that one, as mine had 162,000 on it and was what looked like the original.

Charles

__________________
"Tell me and I will listen, Teach me and I will learn, Show me and I will accomplish, Involve me and I will succeed."
'84 300SD 256,000 Gold on Brown (Mileage Award)
'86 300E 246,000 Blue on Tan

Thanks for the description.
Does anyone experienced agree the M103 should be pretty similar to the M104? The reason I ask is because I can't find the lower bolt... and I couldn't find it with the shroud off either!
Tomorrow, phil is going to send me the M104 information on changing.
Thanks a bunch for the info, can-do.

Does anyone think that I might not be able to do this?! (my skill and experience, or lack thereof!) I will assess myself if I can do it or not when I have the pictures, and step by step instructions from Phil.

THX!

__________________
2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver)

Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)

According to the Benz CD , on the 104, the fan and pully both have to come off.
If that is the case , you may want to consider having it done.
Pretty easy to poke a hole in the radiator if you are inexperienced with tools. As other post points out-- very tight quarters.

Greetings Again,

Because the lower bolt that holds the shock on may be hidden from direct view, especially if the front of your engine has any dirt or residue on it. It lies behind the serpetine belt a bit, but can be viewed from an angle with the cooling shroud off. If in fact the shock is the same, which it is, and the belt tensioner is the same, then nothing on the engine needs to be removed unless you are pulling the entire tensioner assembly off. Take another look at the shock and follow it down to the side assembly of the tensioning unit.

Good Luck, It is a DIY'er job


Charles

__________________
"Tell me and I will listen, Teach me and I will learn, Show me and I will accomplish, Involve me and I will succeed."
'84 300SD 256,000 Gold on Brown (Mileage Award)
'86 300E 246,000 Blue on Tan

Tried the o-ring trick.... works great.

Thanks Arthur

__________________
Reno

'93 300E 4Matic
'98 Nissan Altima
'00 Yamaha Road Star Silverado

Reno.
My pleasure.
As you can see, the O ring works better than a washer in that it goes around the bushing spacer , therefore not interferring with the width demension.

http://www.a-p-group.com/ashman/M104.mp3

This is what mine sounds for the first two gears. hehe Ummm but I wouldn't say its bad sounding.

Alon

__________________
'92 300CE - Sold
2004 C240 - 744 - C7 Wheels - Android Radio
2002 C320 - 816 - Sport Wagon

'94 E320 Coupe 94.3k

Starts and Idles extremely quiet (slight air pump noise for the 1st minute on initial morning start up- but ceases normally after a minute), no valve noise- to racka racka at start up- no bearing noise- no tapping noise- no grinding noise-no squealing noise

Motor idles rock solid smoothly- so much so that one can put a cup of coffee on it with it moving


car has had main wiring harness replaced 2 weeks ago (and 24 valves replaced/ head gasket replaced replaced within the last 15k miles)

-fad

Hey All

Mine has the newer style tensioner (no shock) but makes the noise, quiet while cold, diesel noise up to 1500 RPM or so, will it be my tensioner (bearing in mind I have the newer one, thought I had solved the problem with the shock, then realised my car doesnt have one

Hi, if you have an AMG 36, unless it is getting worse, this sound is pretty normal...

__________________
-94 E 36 AMG Coupé, Brilliant Silver
-98 G 500, Obsidian Black
-05 Mini Cooper, Solid Black
-97 993 Carrera S, Ocean Blue

Interesting post...
It got me thinking...
My sons 88 300TE is very "whiney" from the front of the engine when he starts it from cold... Could that be the belt tensioner too?

Also, looking at the pic SteveBFL posted, what is the part with 31 and 42 attached to it?
I have one of these, that the PO included, but its just the lower part of that Assy... the threaded rod with the odd looking elbow and wrench type bit on the lower end.
What does it do?
I am missing the parts 31/42.

__________________
2009 Mercedes ML320 Bluetec

Nothing reviving an old thread! LOL!

OK! I used an additional washer/O ring to take up the slack. Let's see if that quites the tensioner as suggested!

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1989 300E

2005 Acura TL

2011 Hyundai Elantra Limited

Swing hard! Take chances!