Since my engine has Hydraulic valve adjusters, there is no cut away schematic in the ETM for these engines. I'm having upper camshaft lube issues and would like a diagram of the oil passages and or exploded diagrams please!

Thanks!

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RIP: 80 300SD
RIP: 79 450SEL
2002 E430 4matic (212,000km)
2002 ML500 'sport'

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I found the diagram in section 18-005 of the engine manual. The oil supply for the cam oiler tube is through the rear camshaft bearing (on both sides of the engine). All other cam bearings are lubricated by oil flowing through the camshaft oiler pipe. The plastic fittings that hold the oiler pipe supply lube to the cam bearings. Unless damaged, the oiler pipe should be able to be cleaned out. Replace the plastic fittings (I got these from the dealer for around $6 per set). Cleaning the varnish and crud from the pipe will make installation of the new plastic fittings easier.

If you have lost lubrication to the cam lobes and bearings, it would be wise to remove the camshaft and check the journals for damage. When going back together, the oiler can be checked by running the engine briefly with the valve cover off and seeing that all the cam lobes have oil squirting on them. This is a messy procedure, however, so be forewarned and run the engine only as long as needed to see that the oiler is doing its job.

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Erich Loepke
2010 Ford Focus
Currently Benz-less

The only addition I'd make to the above is:

1. That the MB shop manual says to replace and not clean the oiler tubes if dirty/blocked. If you clean them, they need to be absolutely spotless and completely free of any debris internally, and each and every squirter hole has to be totally free of even the hint of obstruction - and do not, period, try to poke things through the holes to clean them. If you think about it and look at the flow diagrams, every drop of oil in the car has to eventually go through these things...that's a lot of oil. And like a rock in a river, even a small obstruction will pile up stuff behind it. When I cleaned mine, I used thinner and 1500/3000 grit sandpaper (yes, this exists) on the inside of the tubes; when done, I would have been comfortable with using these items in an operating theater. I wound up discarding one of them because it seemed that a P.O. or mechanic had poked around one of the oil holes and changed it's diameter/misshaped it. I think that enlarging the holes might decrease your oil pressure, and at idle in gear on a hot day, this might be the difference between enough and not enough lubrication.

If one of these holes is blocked, it will not take long at all to destroy hundreds of dollars of parts, never mind the labor costs.

2. make ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that you have the NEW oil tube fittings down ALL THE WAY into the bearings. Use a rubber mallet. They WILL pop out if you don't. And NEVER, NEVER remove, then reinstall the fittings. They are good for one insertion, after that, the barbs get worn and won't grip as well. The good news is, that they are not expensive.

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86 560SL
With homebrew first gear start!
85 380SL
Daily Driver Project

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