So I have established the motor is dead because I can apply battery power to the terminals and it does not make any sound at all. No clicks, nothing.

Now, with the front windows, the motor is separate from the regulator and can be swapped easily. This seems not to be the case with the rear windows on the w124.

The wire seems to be a part of the motor. Fastline lists EACH side at $320
No way I want to pay $640 to get the rear windows working....But I am kinda desparate because I want to get the car tinted and they won't do it without the windows working.

Any advice? Any cheaper options here?

What about removing the glass w/o the motor working? I'd like the windows to work, but I can live without if I can just get the glass out to tint it.

Thanks

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

Go to allmercedes.com

they have an alternative MAGNETI MARELLI brand, 112 each (free shipping).....

even if it fails in two years (i am not saying it would as they usually stock decent parts), it still beats the 320 for each genuine mercedes IMHO....

take pictures while doing this as my rears are not working also .....

good luck

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1993 300E, 2.8 M104 .....

********** also has them

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1993 300E, 2.8 M104 .....

Hmm...still $225 to get the windows working. Not really a priority unless there is no other option.

Any chance I can get the window out w/o the motor working? Maybe I can just tint the sides myself (can't be that hard right?) and get the pro's to do the very rear glass.

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

I have some good used ones, PM me if you're interested and I'll get a shipping price.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

1988 190e - motors seemed dead - no movement. The regulator looks very similar to the 124. I removed the unit - tight but was able to get it out. Unit disassembly was staight forward (remove metal cover plate to expose the cranking mechanism). There was rust on the drive shaft of the motor and after cleaning / lubing, I got both the left and right back in working order.

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07 E350 4Matic wagon, 06 S430 4Matic, 99 SLK 230
retired W210 (x3), W124, W126

124 are notorious for having the wire on the rear door jams damaged due to regular use. It happened to me....Worth to try.

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J.H.
'86 300E

one solution is to swap in a motor from an 80's or 90's VW or Audi. i am sorry i can't tell you exactly which car but if you are junkyard friendly you could do some hunting. the regulators are a similar type to the early 124. i sell VW parts and we have some old stock 80's and 90's Vw parts, when the left rear window motor on my '87 wagon died i was able to find and swap in a VW part fairly easily. the motor itself is the same, made by brose, it required some taking apart and swapping the wires but nothing too difficult. once you got the motor down to the drive portion it was nearly identical, maybe one screw boss had to be clearanced as i recall.

and as for the post above, indeed the wires on the left rear door jamb are bad on my car, but the window will work from the front switch. the wire repair is another day.

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punkinfair

I bought a cheap knockoff new regulator and motor from ebay, put it in a couple years ago and everything is still ok. I think I paid about $50.

Rgds,
Chris W.
'95 E300D, 297K