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merc380 11-13-2001 05:35 AM

Merc 380 coupe
 
Hi there,

Can anyone advise on what's going wrong with my 1986 380 SEC

At times, the engine wants to rev higher than normal tickover speed and when in drive, it is trying to pull forward. If I move it into neutral, the engine revs to 1500 then drops to about 700.

At other times, it sits quite peacefully at 500 rpm

My 'specialist' claim to have changed just about everything on the fuel injection side to repair this problem but it won't go away.

merc380 11-13-2001 05:49 AM

And another thing
 
The fault above is definately NOT the injection system - the car also has an LPG conversion and the problem still occurs, so it is something to do with the air flow management

benzat 11-13-2001 01:41 PM

you have a 1986 380 SEC

I thought they only made them in 1982 and 1983

benzat

benzat 11-13-2001 02:11 PM

my 1982 380 SEC did that

is it drinking fuel? If thats what is doing check the air fuel mixture and adjust that.

if your car is a 1982 or 1983 you have two things controling you idle..

idle control valve..under the air cleaner its silver with a 2 prong plug on it that could be bad

idle control relay on the firewall a black looking box almost in the middle that could be bad also.

when I replaced my idle control valve my idle was way off and bouncy. Then I replaced the idle control relay it it stop the bounce in the idle at a stop sign.

the mechanic I took my car to get the timing chain done turned up my air fuel mixutre very high. to much fuel (will make it feel like it wants to go fwd when you have the brakes on) and I adjusted it and it doesnt drink fuel or want to go forward.

benzat

1982 380 SEC

merc380 11-13-2001 02:35 PM

First reg. Jan 1986, so it's an 85 car.

I've read elsewhere about dry joints in relays, so I'm going to try and find some of them. Fuel consumption is fine, air mix is fine, plugs are new, plug leads are new, coil is new, dist. cap is new, etc etc.

This is driving me nuts.

Quote:

Originally posted by benzat
the mechanic I took my car to get the timing chain done turned up my air fuel mixutre very high. to much fuel (will make it feel like it wants to go fwd when you have the brakes on) and I adjusted it and it doesnt drink fuel or want to go forward.

benzat

1982 380 SEC [/B]

benzat 11-13-2001 02:47 PM

trust me I know...thats just one problem Ive had with my car...lets just say the old owner was a do it your self flunkie..thats what my mechanic said..

I have a new front end, brakes, fuel hoses, fuel pump, timing chain, and many new relays.

the things this guy did to this car he should be shot for being so *dumb*

$20.00 part to not have the auxilary fan run all the time, instead he spent ?? to rewire it to run all the time.
$40.00 monovalve to get heat in the car and he spent $? with 6 feet of hose to avoid fixing it.

and the timing chain the *person* put the master link on backwards I dont know how but I saw it myself and couldnt believe it

benzat
1982 380 SEC

merc380 11-13-2001 06:31 PM

[and the timing chain the *person* put the master link on backwards I dont know how but I saw it myself and couldnt believe it

benzat
1982 380 SEC]

{laughing}
The chain link thing is a bit of an oddball from motorcycles - yes, I use them also!.

In theory, if the split link end is pointing in the direction of travel, a stone jumping up from the road could open the link and thus allow the chain to seperate. You can figure out yourself the chances of this happening in a sealed environment like a timing case.
However, some dumb mechanics continue to preach it as gospel without thinking the thing through. I suppose it gives them a chance to show how smart they are...not.


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