My 1968 220/8 gets noisy when it warms up and makes a noise that does not appear to be valve related. I'm guessing it is the timing chain, tensioner, or chain guide. Is a visual inspection possible if I remove the valve cover gasket? Of the 3 components, is one a more likely culprit ? I've read in previous posts that the chain itself could support a battleship.

Thanks,

If it is one of those double row chains, it probably could support a battleship, or at least 'ol Silver

If there is any stretch (and you do hear some slapping), a number of things could happen. And none of them are good. The chain may jump a few teeth on the cam or crank gear causing the pistons to make a mess of your valves. The chain guides get brittle and may break, causing the same to happen.

Roll in a new chain and check the rails. (mine was slapping before it broke)

__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

Michael,
When you say, "roll in a new chain".....is it that easy? Can I roll one in thru the head? Is this possible to do without moving the gears from their proper position? I have yet to find adequate explanation of replacing the chain from my MB shop manual and the Chiltons is worthless. Any tips are appreciated?

Peter,

Michael offers very good "been there, done that" information. He's just getting his back together after a broken chain.

Yes, you can roll in the chain by pulling the valve cover. Here's what you do:

With a new chain and two links on hand, use tie wraps around the chain and through the holes in the cam gear. These are so you can remove a link to attach the new chain. Use dremel tool with a grinding wheel to cut the pin ends off of a link. Make sure you cut the pins from the same link. Once the ends of the pin are ground off, pull the link out the back. Temporarily insert a new link into the end of the chain that is on the drivers side of the engine, and peen it into place. If you can get a clip mounted master link for this installation portion of the operation, it will be much easier. With the new chain connected the old, cut the tie wraps and turn the engine slowly CLOCKWISE with a 27MM socket on the front crankshaft bolt. Keep feeding the chain as you go, but keep the old chain engaged with the passenger side of the cam gear as you feed it off. You may need a helper to slowly turn the engine while you feed the new chain and pull off the old one. Once the new chain makes its way all the way through, tie wrap both ends to the cam gear again, that will keep the chain in place while you disconnect the old chain and put your permanent link in place to connect both ends of your new chain. There is a tool available to crimp the chain, but if your careful, you can use a dolly or big hammer behind the chain, while peening the ends of the link pins in place over the new side plate.

Now, this tells you how to roll in a new chain, but that will probably not fix the noise. The noise is probably due to the tensioner. If there is low oil pressure or a worn tensioner that will not hold oil pressure, the chain will slap. Additionally, it is possible that there is a broken or loose chain guide. Rolling in a new chain won't correct the problem, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to roll one in once you find and correct the source of the noise.

Hope this helps,

Check out the "Vintage" forum as well as do a search...

...I've seen a few threads concerning the "claka claka" sound upon warming up, and it has something to do with oil pressure component fix...my Dad's 71 2.8SE made that noise for years and we never knew why...

__________________
2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle
2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car
2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver
2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car

Thanks for the tips. This is a lot more involved than the chain on my Schwinn Varsity. Claka, claka, clak

Thanks for replying for me Larry.

I am apprehensive about closing my engine up with a "self-peened" chain rivet. I am waiting for a rental chain press tool from Performance Products, but it is currently rented out and I am "on the list". I have in the meantime, found on eBay, a chain press tool for a Harley Davidson chain. While I am sure the spacing is different, I think it can be used to press one rivet at a time. I have won an auction and am waiting for the unit to arrive. It cost me a total of $12 + $5 shipping.

I will let everybody know if it can be used when I get it in. Wish me luck.

If not, I can always use it on my Harley.

__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)