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  #16  
Old 11-21-2001, 09:31 AM
BlackE55
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Matt,

You are correct sir, I meant the rocker arms. One is quite loud for about 2 seconds when it's really cold (like about 10 degrees F or colder) "tap-tap-tap", then it goes away.

Kerry, thanks for the info, I think I'll hold off injectors for a while. One thing at a time

Happy Thanksgiving to all!
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  #17  
Old 11-21-2001, 08:18 PM
Mattman
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no probs Ted, are you looking at replacing the rocker arms? I have heard elsewhere that these do wear over time. Might check the prices of these at fastlane. Update, just had a look on Fastlane and these are between $12 and $20 each depending on the brand chosen. 16 each are needed so cost would be $192 and $320 plus fitting. I wouldn't imagine that these would be too hard to fit, basically just torque them down correctly. Anyone done this?
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  #18  
Old 11-21-2001, 08:37 PM
BlackE55
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According to Steve B. of Continental Imports:

"On the 420/560 motor it is most likely that the problem is a rocker arm to cam issue. It can all be done without removing the head. Removing the rocker arms to view their surface would be the first step after removing the valve cover. The removal is facilitated by the special spring depressing tool.

There will be no way to see the bad part of the rocker without removal. If the cam is rough you won't need to remove them for a diagnosis but it will require a cam. MB says that cams and rockers should be done together. In the field the rockers are replaced without the cam, at least till the cam is rough.

Be sure the cam oil tubes are tightly mounted into the cam stands."

There's a procedure in the MB service manual (or CD) for this. I'd hate to have to replace my cams, yikes that could be big $$.
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  #19  
Old 11-21-2001, 08:48 PM
Mattman
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Just checked Fastlane and they list the left camshaft at $263, I am also due for a timing chain and related. I can see this might get expensive :-(
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  #20  
Old 11-21-2001, 08:58 PM
BlackE55
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One thing at a time, but on the other hand everything is apart, so might as well do as much as you can once you are in there. How 'bout the valve stem seals??
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  #21  
Old 11-21-2001, 09:10 PM
Mattman
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True, if you have to use the spring compressor to remove the rocker arms then the seals are quite easily done at the same time. Has anyone had to replace the lifters?
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  #22  
Old 11-21-2001, 11:12 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
Ted:

Check the two little o-rings on the end of the shaft on the oil filter housing cover -- no one ever seems to change these, and they get old and hard and leak. Oil leaks down from the lifter galleries over night, allowing the lifters to go "flat", and they rattle when you start up.

Cheap easy fix, much better than a camshaft or new lifters! -- cured the noise on my 87 300D.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #23  
Old 11-22-2001, 10:36 AM
BlackE55
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Thanks Peter, it crossed my mind, but it's easy to overlook. That'll be the first thing checked before digging into the top end!
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  #24  
Old 11-24-2001, 04:55 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Malaysia
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Quote:
Originally posted by ymsin

The engine was last overhauled with pistons and valves change and grind last year. But somehow, carbon still accumalates. Rapid acceleration would blow those carbon away, and after a few successions of acceleration, the carbon built-up is minimal. I only notice this "habit" of carbon building in the W124 260E and wonder if any one else might have a similar "habit".

It defintely requires a good tune-up with the new injectors. The idling has gone way up to 1.1, and thus the engine rev is a little noisy and burning excessive fuel ...
The problems listed above may have been solved with a stroke of a thorough analysis of the engine.

The throttle cable was jammed at one point, and thus the rev was stuck.

Solution: replaced cable. Now the pedal is so much smoother and lighter, and yes, the rpm is back where it should be and the engine sounds very much quieter.

The black smoke could have been due to badly-needed-to-be-replaced air hose which showed signs of extreme wear and tear.

Got that changed too.

Not, the engine performs as good as new and the response immaculate. Black smoke? Don't see that burp coming out now.

I guess, all is well.

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... Kerry

126 tailed by a 203, 129 leading the pack.
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  #25  
Old 11-25-2001, 10:56 AM
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Location: Singapore
Posts: 268
YMsin, great to hear more good news from you.

Could you elaborate on the throttle cable and air-hose pls? I mean, do you have the Part Numbers and prices? I may want to address those symtoms that you mentioned.

Thanks!


Mervyn
1983 W126 (280SEL)
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  #26  
Old 11-26-2001, 01:57 AM
ymsin's Avatar
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Malaysia
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I will hop into the real shop and get the details for you.

But then again, it was done for the 124, and the 126 might be different?
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... Kerry

126 tailed by a 203, 129 leading the pack.
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  #27  
Old 11-26-2001, 02:03 AM
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Thanks YMsin! I know its for the 124, but somehow my 126 is experiencing somewhat similar symtoms, so I thought I may as well give it a go like what you did.

Keep me posted on the details, thanks!



Mervyn
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  #28  
Old 11-26-2001, 05:23 AM
Mattman
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I think he means that the part numbers will be different for the 126 than the ones for the 124 so the info you asked for may not be of any use to you.

Matt.
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  #29  
Old 11-26-2001, 09:02 PM
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Matt, I realized that. Thanks. But any info pertaining to these 2 parts would be pretty useful, if the 126 does have them.

Mervyn
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  #30  
Old 11-26-2001, 10:39 PM
ymsin's Avatar
Driver, Mercedes-Benz
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Malaysia
Posts: 1,645
I called the "real" shop on my mobile and was told that the 126 may not come with the throttle cable. It is bound by a rod.

I will be hoping over for them to have a look and I shall get right back here with details.
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126 tailed by a 203, 129 leading the pack.
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