On older cars the windshield washer squirter was driven by a rubber bulb mounted on a fitting in the footwell. Mash the bulb, drive air via a tube to the fluid bag, that forces fluid to the jet on the hood. The rubber bulb is actually two halves cemented together at their widest point. One of the halves has a large hole which is cemented to an aluminum flange. That flange is how the device is fastened to the bracket that connects everything to the floor. Also, the air emerges from the bulb through the aluminum flange into the tube to the bag.

The rubber bulb on mine has separated intact from the aluminum. I suppose the old adhesive simply dried out. What is the best modern adhesive to fasten rubber to aluminum? It will have to form an airtight seal as well. Also, the circumference where the rubber halves is cracking and there may be pinholes. What is the best goo to use to fill these small cracks and to restore adhesion? The halves have not separated yet, but this is not far off.

Suggestions received so far include: Weldwood Contact Cement, Goop, RTV Silicone.

Thanks. I'm placing this on the Vintage list as well.

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Douglas
1959 M-B 220S cabriolet

Goop should do it

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"If God had meant for us to walk, why did he give us feet that fit car pedals?" Sir Sterling Moss

Michael
2014 E63S Estate
2006 SLK55
1995 E500
1986 Porsche 944 turbo

3m weatherstrip glue should be bad either

-ren

Permatex Black Rubber Sealant. It is formulated specifically for use on rubber & will adhere much better than silicone or other multipurpose goops. See my post in this thread: Wind noise on W126 cars

RTH

Go to your local glass auto glass shop, and have them put a little urethane on it. This is what new car windshields are glued & sealed with.

JB Weld two part epoxy sounds like a good candidate.

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Reno

'93 300E 4Matic
'98 Nissan Altima
'00 Yamaha Road Star Silverado

Thanks for all the suggestions. Here is what I did and how it turned out: (1) for the cracks around the circumference of the bulb, I went with Permatex Rubber Sealant, stuff in an orange tube. I compressed the bulb in a vise and smeared the goo into all the cracks and splits with a toothpick. Let the bulb return to normal shape and sit for 24 hours. Voila! No air leaks and the bulb compresses with some flexibility at the seam. I think I am happy with this choice. (2) for mounting the bulb to the aluminum flange, I decided to go with Pliobond, a flexible type of contact cement. One coat on both parts. Let dry. One coat on aluminum and let it get tacky. Then fitted together and shortly thereafter fitted bulb and aluminum to its bracket and tightented the holding nut and washer. Let sit 24 hours. It all worked and there is no air leakage. Hope it holds up!

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Douglas
1959 M-B 220S cabriolet