(1990 190E 2.6) Irecently removed my center console to replace the light bulb and also noticed one of my window switches were broken (right rear passenger side). I took out the switch and opened it up (I have no idea why) to look at the parts inside. I then decided to open up one that was an original part. Well I put everything back together and reconnected the window switches. I drove for a while and the windows were fine. When I came back home and rolled the windows up the front passenger side would not work. I then took the console out again and checked to make sure they were connected and they were so then I checked the fuse and both window fuses were blown. I replaced them and tried again and pop! They blew again. I swapped the front passenger switch to the rear passenger switch and nothing. I then decided that the broken switch was the culprit and disconnected it and tried to roll the window up from the door, but nothing. I reconnected the front passenger switch to its orignal spot and tried to roll it down and the damn switch shorted out and started smoking. Im now confused as to what the problem could be. I just bought another pack of fuses and ordered to window switches. They should be here on friday. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

Maybe the wires going to the plugs in the console wood are shorting, or you didn't put the switches back together correctly. If new switches and fuses don't correct the problem, check the wires and open the plugs to check for cracked insulation.

Ok thank you. The new switches should be here by friday, if not by monday. I just tried to roll the right rear window up via the switch on the door and its not working. I hope its nothing wrong with the regulator or motor as these have been replaced twice already on the same window within 1 yr apart. Last time it was done was last year and its so expensive.

Any sporadic operation of the rear windows?

My 89 190e 2.6 had similar problems with window fuses. Turns out the wires that go from the b pillar into the rear doors were severed (this is a common problem with w201 chassis with power windows) and were shorting even when the windows were not being used.

I ended up removing the rubber wire conduit, and found that the wires were completely severed on BOTH rear windows. This was surprising to me because the PO was a family member that very rarely used the rear doors. I soldered the wires and fitted heat shrink tubing. Now all windows work well, and no more blown fuses!

Shrink tube is a great tool to fix wiring looms that run thru any door or even a hatch. Very, very cheep and if your really worried about a connection two or three pieces of shrink tube can be added to the offending wire or wires.

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1985 300D 198K sold
1982 300D 202K
1989 300E 125K
1992 940T

"If you dont have time to do it safely, you dont have time to do it"

"The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not."

You should apply direct voltage to the window motor and check the amp draw. That'll tell you if it's the motor or the switches/wiring/etc...

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A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608

Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL.