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#1
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Ouch - MB shop says I need a complete front end rebuild
They provided a whole laundry list of parts, along with parts numbers, because they know I'll be doing it myself.
My question is this - exactly how are they determining that these parts are bad? For example, I supposedely need new lower control arm bushings. However, there is no sign of cracking or age on the existing bushings. I also supposedly need new guide rods and mounts, however unless the rod is bent, I don't understand why the rod itself would require replacement. I'm pretty sure the mount needs to be replaced, because I get a nice clunk while braking hard, but other than that, I nothing. There's also tie rod ends, idler arm, etc... however I can't feel any "slop" in the steering at all. I've got tires on it that sat, unmoved, for 2 years and don't even get any vibration in my steering wheel. Same thing with the suspension steering bracket bushings/bearings - no cracks, pulled back rubber, etc... Did they just make recommendations based on age of the vehicle or am I missing something?
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A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608 Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL. |
#2
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Let me guess...dealer?
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1989 300E 144K |
#3
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Nope, dealer alternative. Specializes in MB & BMW only, especially older models.
Plus, they knew going into it that I would be doing all the work - I basically paid for an undercar inspection because I'm lazy and not familiar with MB suspension. They do sell parts, though...
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A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608 Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL. |
#4
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If it ain't broke, don't fix it. If you feel you need the guide rod mounts, cool. I would assume the rest is based on age. If you don't notice a problem, I would address it. My $.02
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1989 300E 144K |
#5
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Sounds like you did an inspection yourself anyway!, and now you're a little more familiar with it.
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#6
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It's a 1985 which means it's 24 years old which means of course it needs a complete suspension rebuild. The rubber could easily have been gone 10 years ago.
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Kent Christensen Albuquerque '07 GL320CDI, '10 CL550. '01 Porsche Boxster Two BMW motorcycles |
#7
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Quote:
However, I've never rebuilt any of ours and they all drive pretty well. Not perfect, but plenty well.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#8
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Quote:
Shouldn't it be cracked, shrunk, extra hard, etc...? Also, my own after-action suspension inspection shows a few MB replacement parts, and the previous owner took excellent care of his vehicles. It's entirely possible that quite a few of the age-related suggested parts could have already been replaced.
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A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608 Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL. Last edited by dhjenkins; 11-27-2009 at 09:31 PM. |
#9
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Quote:
Some shops are reluctant to do it this way but the shop I use is willing to work with me on it. As a result I have been their customer for over 20 years.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#10
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I would do the tie rod ends and repack/adjust the front bearings. If it seems nice to you then, wait until you get any other symptoms. The lower ball joints do tend to fail after 200K or so, however, which could be a good time to replace together with the LCA bushings.
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Prost! |
#11
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front end suspension
I am on a mission to replace as much of the front end as possible. I purchased the "kit of parts" from deutschepartsusa on eBay specific to the vehicle. So far I have replaced the tie rods, upper control arms, center link, idler arm, and will do the lower control arm bushings and ball joints when I am able to rent a spring compressor. I also replaced the old shocks with Bilstein (comforts); all of which has made an unbelieveable difference to the feel of the front end. After 23 years, even rubber that looked good on casual inspection turned out to be completely gone; held together by layers of road grime.
My 2c, don't hesitate to replace everything your budget will allow; it is worth every cent.
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Simon Shearer 1986 420SEL 2000 Porsche 911 Millenium Edition Carrera 4 2010 Lexus RX 350 2002 Kia Rio 2002 Hyundai Accent |
#12
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I think I was looking at that same parts kit on ebay.
Looked alot cheaper than buying single parts, and it was supposedly all OEM.
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A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608 Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL. |
#13
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Remember that the price includes customer service. Keep track of who answers the phone when you need them. -CTH
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#14
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Yeah, I've decided against the ebay deal (was looking at a guide rod mount set). The brand is "Hamburg Technic", and there's not a lot good things posted about the quality (or even country of origin) of HT parts.
You know what they say - when it looks too good to be true...
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A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608 Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL. |
#15
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It may look ok, and feel OK, but trust me, if it's over 10-years old and it's rubber, it has lived it's useful life, and the compliance is all gone.
Since it's your labor, I would DEFINITELY do it once and do it right. I've rebuilt three W124 front & rear suspensions, and it really brings back the "special" quality of a W124. :-) neil 1988 E36T AMG 1993 500E 1995 E320 wagon 1995 E320 wagon |
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