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#1
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Replacing condensor seals /w radiator out
I am not too familiar with the A/C system at all on the w124...but I have a leak somewhere. Since I have the radiator out I figure I should replace all the seals on the condenser since I have a kit laying around.
Where are the seals exactly if anybody has replaced them? R134a seals are backward compatible with R12 correct? I managed to get my hands on some R12 so I would like to use that over R134a. Thanks, Robert
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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k |
#2
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Also, is it possible to pull the evap out of the blower motor like this shown on a 190E 2.6?
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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k |
#3
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Yes, the R134a seals are backwards compatible.
As far as finding the leak, do you have any other plans? Can you get your hands on some nitrogen? (not nitrous oxide). If you have a friend who MIG welds, he might have a cylinder handy. Nitrogen is an inert gas, so you can charge your system with that (do NOT run it) and either listen, use the soapy water method, use some super-blu, or try the incense trick. Now, while the seals might be backwards compatible, the refrigerant oils are not. If you've already made the switch to 134a, it would not be a good idea to load a PAG filled system with R-12. R-12 needs Ester oil. Either flush out all of the components seperately (take them all out) or stick with the R134a.
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A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608 Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL. |
#4
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Do Not "Flush" out your Compressor...
(1st drain it as best you can)
Instead Push/Pull the old 134Lube out by Hand Turning the compressor and feeding it the new oil UNTIL all the old lube is gone. [using flush in the Compressor will destroy it] on to Question # 2: "Also, is it possible to pull the evap out of the blower motor like this shown on a 190E 2.6?" Hoo Boy Don't we all wish it were so! The whole dash has to come out of the car 1st... Some helpful tutorials: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/147956-evaporator-removed-124-a-post1122635.html 124 Evaporator Core Replacement Help http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_dash/ http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/35373-w124-climate-control-vacuum-pod-replacement.html#post197605 AND W124 (124.290) Evaporator, Vacuum Pod, and Bulb Replacements
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 Last edited by compress ignite; 12-02-2009 at 12:59 AM. |
#5
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Great links thanks I saved them.
When they say "bad center vent" what does that mean? I have noticed that I do not get any warm air out of the middle vents at all -- only cold air even though the heat is on. Is this what they are referencing? Also even when the CCU is turned to OFF, I get air coming from the vents, but its not from the blower motor. Is that normal? 5.5 hours total to do the job isn't as bad as I thought. I heard from someone its a 12 hour job and I cringed... I have a vac pump that works great for getting everything out the system. Thanks dhjenkins for the oil information, good thing you mentioned that.
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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k |
#6
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"Bad Center Vent"
Means the Vacuum Pod that controls that "Door" is Kaput.(Or the Vacuum line)
Pictures courtesy GSXR:
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#7
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My bad - he's absolutely correct. It's every other part that gets the flush treatment; I'm just used to having the compressor away from the action when the flush "machine" comes out...
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A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608 Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL. |
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