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#1
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W124: 1991 300TE leak advice please
Bottom line: 1991 300TE 4matic, 160k miles, sound body and motor, mild undercarriage rust. Counting on her for winter hauling of multiple people. Leaking transfer case sealed ~ 6 months ago, successfully ($1,400 since I didn't have time, lift, or inclination to tinker in that zone).
Started getting smoke at highway speeds and losing hydraulic fluid (same symptoms that led us to getting the t-case seals & lines redone). Back to the same shop - isn't hydraulic fluid hitting the exhaust and making smoke, it's transmission fluid. Leaking from "a connector on the passenger side." Also, lose of hydraulic fluid is from valve at self leveler (rear of wagon). Prognosis: shop (Deutsche American in Ijamsville, MD, FWIW) doesn't do auto tranny's, suggests taking it to a transmission shop for that leak. New self leveler valve plus 4 lines to/from the valve, $440 parts, labor to be actual hours ($89/hour). What to do now? If the she wasn't making smoke clouds at highway speed, I'd be inclined to keep topping up fluids through the winter. Other options? 1) Figure out if I can change/reseal the leaking "connector" (will get more specifics on what/where when I pick up the car) myself. Stop that leak, worry about leveler when funds are more available. 2) Do #1 and do the leveler myself. Save what - 2, 3 hours labor? Not peanuts, but not sure at this point is worth my fighting rusty hydraulic lines. 3) Pay a trans shop to fix the trans leak. Any guesses/recommendations? Deutsche is recommending AAMCO because I'd get a national warranty, and he's had good luck with the local shop. 4) Punt the car keys into the field and let 'er sit. Not much of an option - got Ma in a wheel chair, Ed not far from one. We're (me and Darling Wife) the full time care for these too, and our only other snow worthy transportation have either only two seats or has no heat. Any other ideas? Suggestions? Words of wisdom? Thanks!
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1961 220b: first project car - sold. 2000 CLK 430: first modern Benz - sold. 2001 CLK 55: OMG the torque!!! - sold 1972 280SE 4.5: Baby Gustav 1991 300TE 4Matic: Gretel the Snow Bunny - sold 1978 300SD: Katz the Free Man - given away 1980 Redhead: Darling Wife |
#2
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5. Buy the FSM asap.
There are two hoses on either side of the engine that connect between the transmission and the radiator, one side of which is a separate ATF cooler. It is likely that that hose is leaking which you can easily replace. You have a dealer in Germantown I think, which is where to get the hose (or mail order from Phil here). It is possible for a driveway mechanic to replace the self leveling valve, but you need open end box wrenches (to avoid distorting the connectors on the hydraulic lines), and you need to bleed the system after you replace the valve. Search here for that bleeding procedure, And I strongly rec you get the FSM on CD to not screw things up. I'll see if I can attach a pdf of the replacement steps from FSM. |
#3
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A flare wrench is the proper tool to loosen/tighten hydraulic line fittings to prevent rounding off the flats. Using an adjustable or open-end wrench on hydraulic line fittings is asking for trouble.
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Fred Hoelzle |
#4
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Quote:
Here's their website: http://www.euromotorcars.com/EMC/Germantown/germantown_index.asp
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1982 240D, sold 9/17/2008 1987 300D TurboW124.133 - 603.960, 722.317 - Smoke Silver Metallic / Medium Red (702/177), acquired 8/15/2009 262,715 and counting |
#5
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fluid
have you turned the AWD off and checked that out? I'm not sure that would tell you anything but it might...worth a try at least.....
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