Last night, a small knock started to be audible in the front suspension. today it is a full-blown creak + knock. i guess i am a lucky one since the car is giving me a warning. the noise is very noticeable on the driver side..i checked the tie-rods they seem to be changed not too far ago....the ball joint on the other hand has a slightly torn boot, and is the original....

at the beginning, i thought it this was a sway-bar issue, but is more serious now. i will not be driving of-course until i determine the source of this.....

questions:

1-it is very hard to pin-point the source of the noise, what is the best way to do that ?

2-are ball joints changeable on these cars, or do you need a new control arm? i have read that after a certain year, no were non-changeable......

this is serious, as it escalated significantly since last night, so something is going to give...

advice please ....

thanks,

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1993 300E, 2.8 M104 .....

I'm not absolutely certain but I think you do not have replaceable ball joints and will need a replacement control arm - New $250, used maybe $30-50. You can check Fastlane or better yet the EPC with your VIN to know for sure.

If by some stroke of luck you do have replaceable ball joints, it can be done with an AutoZone rental ball joint tool, some ingenuity, a few raw materials, and some time! The proper tool makes it 5 minutes to remove and install, quite easy!

If it is the ball joint it should be detectable with the wheel off the ground and rocking it grasped at 6 and 12 o'clock. Any movement is in the ball joint assuming the wheel bearings are not in question. You can also get some heavy lube or oil into the joint to diagnose; if the noise is reduced after the lube is applied that's the problem.

If it’s a ball joint on the 124 chassis not driving the car is a very good idea, when it fails the shock compresses and the front of the car drops the wheel well onto the tire. As speed this could be catastrophic, it most often happens though at low speed when turning the wheel and barely moving for some reason, like turning into or out of a parking spot. The front sway bar usually prevents the control arm from dropping completely to the ground because its end is attached to the control arm; this also usually stops the spring from coming free also. But something like going over a speed bump or a deep pot hole will really stress everything if it lets go then.

I checked EPC, and it does list a separate ball joint for my car...

now the question is how make sure which part to change, because other than a slightly cracked ball-joint boot, everything else seems in good shape....

Edit: I saw you edited your post, thanks for the additional info...i will take another look.....

do you know if a bad ball joint could cause a creek noise?

thanks,

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1993 300E, 2.8 M104 .....

I dunno about that chassis model, but on a W126 the lower ball joints have to be pressed in by a special hydraulic press.

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-tp


1990 300SE "Corinne"- 145k daily driver - street modified differential - PARTING OUT OR SELLING SOON - PORTLAND OR. AREA - PM ME FOR DETAILS
1988 560SEL "Gunther"- 190K passes anything except a gas station
1997 S420 - 265k just bought it with a rebuilt trans. Lovely condition

Well there are only a couple things it could be and the only way to know for certain is to isolate those things one by one. Yes, a failing ball joint can make many sounds starting with a creak.

The first thing is to apply some lube to the sway bar bushings an see if that makes the noise go away, if it does go away that is the problem.

The next thing to do is separate the tie rod from the wheel carrier, then you can move the wheel separate from the steering linkage, if the noise is gone it’s either the tie rod, center link, or idler arm.

As mentioned apply some lube to the ripped ball joint if that lessens the noise that is the problem.

There can be a difference in the amount of noise a ball joint will make with the wheel on the ground and with the wheel off the ground. If the ball joint is loose you should be able to feel it racking the wheel and you would likely be able to see any movement in the joint if you get the car up on a lift and get a pry bar it there and lever it some.

I have a 124 ball joint tool listed in the tool rental list is you decide to replace yours and you don’t go with the modified AutoZone tool method.

thanks,

will a bad ball joint knock also as the street level changes? i have a metal to metal knocking noise also .....

I am also suspecting the connection between the tie-rod and the steering gear(where they connect, i am not sure of the name), there seems to be some play there....

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1993 300E, 2.8 M104 .....

Upon further inspection today, ball joint is completely dry and grinding, time for a new ball joint....looks like a tough job. the bottom side of my ball joint is a little round, does that mean it is the replaceable or a non-replaceable type?

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1993 300E, 2.8 M104 .....