New Owner questions
 

Just bought a 91 300e with 220K from a neighbor for $300.00. Been sitting for 7 years due to needing a a valve job, so the paint has faded, but the interior is immac.

I'm very mech, and currently own a 1986 930, 1995 Range Rover County, 1995 XJS, 1993 Volvo 940T Wagon, 1992 325, and 1999 328, and do all maint repairs myself, so I am going to pull the head myself.

Never owned a benz before, been reading these 300E's are incredible cars, so very excited to start playing with new toy. It is an automatic, and was wondering does it have the old 4hp22 (or a variation) that so many other euro cars have? I need to tow it about a block and want to make sure it is ok for the tranny.

Tim

If you want to see what the options are, run the VIN here: http://old.mbclub.ru/mb/vin/?lng=eng

The usual suggestion when towing these cars with automatics is disconnecting the drive shaft - I believe it's a lubrication issue (or, rather, lack of). If the engine was running, you can put it in neutral, and tow it...but, I doubt that is the case. I can't speak as to how far is too far without lubrication.

The transmission is a 722.XXX, when you run the VIN at the above link, you'll be able to determine what the .XXX is.

Just because it needs a valve job doesn't mean it won't run.

It could be just burning through a lot of oil...
FYI do not attempt to jumpstart these cars. There is a TSB that w124's due to the Overvoltage Protection Relay should not be jumped. If they are, there is a chance you'll blow the OVP so its $60 down the drain. The TSB states the correct procedure is to remove the battery, charge it then place it back in the car.

If its sat for 7 years though, I'd be more inclined to tow it and change the oil first before starting the car.

Thanks. I'll just get a couple of friends to help me push it home!

If I remember correctly from my owners manual you can tow these for a short distance if you keep the speed under 30.

Maybe a W124 owner could look that up.


You can also tow start them, thats what the hook under the bumper is for.

ps2cho, I never heard that before! I have a 91 300E and i've jumped it many times with no problem, still has the original OVP. I'm not really understanding how it could damage a part designed to protect against voltage surges, and with a fuse (or two) no less. I'm not saying you're info isn't right, but I've never heard of anyone having a problem like that after a jump and never seen any threads relating to it (unless some of the many "bad" OVP threads are the unwitting result of jump starts!).
Maybe just MB covering their asses with that TSB?

edited to add: I've also charged the battery in the car (with pos+ cable removed).

tow with the front wheels on the ground, not he back, problem solved.

Here is the info:
http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/Index/Resources/54.40aJump%20start.pdf

I've never heard of anything either...but its not to say that multiple jump starts have not caused many of the OVP failures over the years...

I read it, and it gives step-by-step instructions for a standard, run-of-the-mill vehicle-to-vehicle jump start.

Granted, a 7-year old un-tended battery is likely toast due to the internal cells being solidified w/ no electrolyte, but I didn't see anything in the document that said "do not jumpstart these vehicles".

300e
 

Got the car home last night, two daughters and son!

Oil is unbelievably clean, very translucent. Very impressive car. Can't wait to get started this weekend.

Very strange, found rust on the top of the frame rail, pass side, just behind healight, where frame rail passes thru metal structure behind headlight. It's actually rusted thru in several spots. No big deal, I'll get this fixed one the car is mech sound, just strange to see rust there, but not under battery. The sealant around the joints must have been porus from the factory????

Edit: Oh yeah, the tran fluid is bright red also, very good!!