Check the sockets of the OVP relay plug too. I just found out that my 88 300E has one of it's sockets recessed within that plug which may be what was wrong with it. When I get the time, I'm gonna fix it, start it and see if the car runs better. I'll need to post an update on that car's old thread too.
Regards, Eric

__________________
89 300E "Benzer1" 15.924 Uncorrected
93 400E "Benzer3" 14.200 U.C.
95 E420 "Benzer4"
92 300E "Benzer5" 16.299 U.C. Future turbo CNG
87 300D "Benzer7"
87 300D "Benzer8"
87 300D "Benzer9"
87 300D/70 AMC Javelin "Sidewinder-Benzer"
87 300TD "Benzer11"
06 E320 CDI "Benzer12"
05 E320 CDI "Benzer12A"
71 AMC Javelin AMX 401 "Sidewinder"
74 AMC Hornet 401 "C.K.10" 13.63 U.C.
74 Bricklin SV1 "Presto" AMC 360 pwrd.

Guys still nothing. I replaced the OVP relay. Did nothing. I went through all of the chassis and motor grounds pulled them off and took a wire brush to them. It runs but now with a check engine light all the time. As soon as I put it into reverse to back out of the driveway it dies instantly.


I need some good advise on this please help.

I had the exact same problem with my '90 420SEL. Turned out to be the mass air meter. Replaced EVERYTHING but that. Finally had to bite the bullet and get it replaced. The rubber diaphragm inside had deteriorated and torn.

Even if the mass air meter was bad it should be able to drive and idle while it is in closed loop. The computer is not using the mass air meter until it is warmed up. I really hope that this is not the problem as I will not spend that much more money on it. Time for a new car.

Alright,
I know there are some smart mercedes people around here. I have spent 1000 dollars on Ideas that have came to nothing but the same as my original post.

I seperated all of the new wires today with seperaters and got it to idle fine. I also put in a new coil.

During the drive (this dumb foundes me)It will not accelerate unless I Floor it. When I mean floor it I am talking as hard as I can push the pedal anything other and the car seems to have absolutly no power. It doesn't even feel like the engine is running. The exhaust is broken at the resonator (one pipe) so it is pretty loud when the engine is running. I can't even here that nothing but silence. It also seems to accelerate all right when floored. I may be wrong cause I never drive it my wife does.

What could cause this.

I have replaced so far
spark plugs
wires (8mm)
Distributor cap and rotor
Coil
Both fuel pumps
accumulator
filter.

It has not even gotten better.

What happens when the fuel distributor goes bad. What does it do.

Some body has got to have some damn good ideas.

This sound like another very bad case of ERI, "Ethanol Related Incident"

Did you read the above post and check the OVP plug sockets? What you describe sounds like OVP trouble and that new OVP relay isn't going to help you if the proper connection isn't there. Check those sockets! It doesn't cost you anything and you have nothing to lose.
Regards, Eric

__________________
89 300E "Benzer1" 15.924 Uncorrected
93 400E "Benzer3" 14.200 U.C.
95 E420 "Benzer4"
92 300E "Benzer5" 16.299 U.C. Future turbo CNG
87 300D "Benzer7"
87 300D "Benzer8"
87 300D "Benzer9"
87 300D/70 AMC Javelin "Sidewinder-Benzer"
87 300TD "Benzer11"
06 E320 CDI "Benzer12"
05 E320 CDI "Benzer12A"
71 AMC Javelin AMX 401 "Sidewinder"
74 AMC Hornet 401 "C.K.10" 13.63 U.C.
74 Bricklin SV1 "Presto" AMC 360 pwrd.

well still grounded or operational?
mak

Of course I checked the sockets. They are fine. Also the check engine light comes on with ignition. Which I have been told means the OVP is good.

Grounded

When I drove the vehicle it did not have a check engine light

When my mass air meter went bad it would not run except when the acc. was floored. It produced MASSIVE amounts of black smoke and had absolutely no power. Eventually it would die. I could not even drive it to the dealership - which is about 8 blocks from my house. This was when it was stone cold - didn't matter whether it was warm or cold. Do a search under user "benzguy1987" and you can see whether or not the symptoms are the same as mine.

i dont get any smoke at all. it idles and starts fine. Maybe a little surge during idle.

Does anybody have a part number for the correct spark plugs. I used the ones that the guy at auto zone pulled up on the computer.

I am now wondering about the distributor cap, wires and spark plug that I used.

The wires and distributor cap are duralast. Reading the product details on the Bosch wire set and the duralast wireset the only dif I see is that one set (bosch) use's a resistor in the boot. The duralast says nothing of the nature. I am also thinking that they sold me resistor type plugs.

Could this have any impact on the car?

Honestly, I am not sure if it is connected but my 300te just died on Sunday. Strangely enough I just put a Duralast cap and rotor in the car.