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  #1  
Old 11-21-2001, 12:31 AM
bg99ers
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HELP WITH 190E 2.3 Head Rebuilt!!!!

HELLO ALL.
As soon as winter break starts, I will also start working on my 190E. My work includes replacing timing chain tensioner, timing chain, valve stem seals (perhaps rebuilding the head), engine mounts, gutting precats and catalyc converter, and also replacement of rear shocks (I may go with a suspension package with lowering springs).
My main Concern is rebuilding the head. I have never done this before so please let me know what I am going to face before really facing it. I would like to be prepared for this since this is the most important part of the work.
1) Are there any main concerns regarding the change of valve stem seals, or changing the timing chain?
2) What tools do I need to rent from my local tools rental shop?
3) How can I keep correct timing after reinstallation of the head?
I have almost 200K on my motor, and since I love this car, I want to keep it on the road hopfully forever. Any other thoughts and opinions you have are much appreciated and are encouraged!!
Thanks in Advance for your replies!!!

Last edited by bg99ers; 11-21-2001 at 01:53 AM.
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  #2  
Old 11-21-2001, 01:30 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: BC, Canada
Posts: 378
You have never rebuilt a head on any engine? If not, you may be in some trouble before you get started. The first thing you should do is use the search feature here to look up things. There was a post a little while back of a fellow that rebuilt his 2.3 head. You can do as he did: take off the head, give it to an engine machine shop and then re-install it. This is still difficult, but not as bad. If you have never done it, then it will take a long time and you will need pullers, torque wrench, feeler gauges, valve spring compressor and who know what all.
Good luck with your task, but you may have a lot of reading to do first.

PS: A better subject to your post would be: Help needed with 2.3 head rebuild.
People with experience could recognize your post as something to which they could contribute.
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  #3  
Old 11-21-2001, 02:16 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 530
I would take the head to a shop to have it rebuilt. Taking it off is one thing,but rebuilding it another.
Things to consider:

1. TOOLS

2. TOOLS

3. TOOLS

You need to make sure the head is flat. If not it needs to be milled. A three angle valve job can only be done with expensive machine tools. Valve guides need to be pressed in with some out landished tonnage press. Mike`s ,calipers time and knowelage to do the job correctly.

Leave the head work to a pro, and try the rest of the job yourself.Or you could look for an exchange piece or an after market performance head.

Either way you`ll be much better off with a proffessional job.

John
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  #4  
Old 11-21-2001, 12:04 PM
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Location: Saugus, CA USA
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Don't try anthing on the head

Add points 4, 5, and 6: experience, experience, experience. I took and engine rebuilding class and they only talked about head work so we would know what's going on. You can destroy a head in the blink of an eye
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  #5  
Old 11-21-2001, 02:26 PM
bg99ers
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Thanks for all of your replies,
I knew that working on the Cylinder head on my own would be a tough task, and I dont even know if my car needs it, But I am mostly concerned about changing the Timing chain, timing chain tensioner, and the valve stem seals. If you could tell me how difficult the above tasks are, I would really appreciate it!
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  #6  
Old 11-21-2001, 02:57 PM
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Its hard to do when we don`t know your skill level.
First off you need a manual. It will have Torque spec`s,timing marks etc.. All so will show most of the specific tools you will need.

Off the top of my bald spot,you`ll need a Torque wrench, pullers to remove harmonic balancers,gears etc.. You can`t pry a balancer off with a screw driver or put it on with a hammer. This is a sort of generic overview,the manual will tell you the specifics.
I`m not trying to discourage you , I`m just pointing out that its more involved than changing oil.

I learned by reading and doing it myself. But it was Small Block Chevy`s and Racing Karts. A Mercedes is a bit more involved.

Good Luck,
John
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  #7  
Old 11-21-2001, 05:31 PM
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Location: Saugus, CA USA
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Valve stem seals, aka valve guide seals, are too easy, especially if the head is off. The only special tool you need is a valve spring compressor. But if you bring it to a head shop that will be part of what they do.
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  #8  
Old 11-21-2001, 09:26 PM
bg99ers
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Well I was thinking that since I am replacing the timing chain, I could also remove the head and have a head shop rebuild it for me now that I know its not my job! But as long as I get the stem seals replaced I am happy.. (I am experiencing excessive oil usage right now). Just out of curiosity, how much would a head shop charge to rebuild my head? its an 8v engine by the way!
A note for Jim Anderson:
So once I compress the valve spring, I should be able to take the seals out?
Thank you all for your replies!
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  #9  
Old 11-21-2001, 09:43 PM
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I say go for a performance upgrade if you are going to have the work done.

Check www.bekkers.com for some nice 190E upgrade engine parts...

Alon
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  #10  
Old 11-21-2001, 09:56 PM
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To: bg99ers

I have the same engine as you do in my car... 201.028, although mine is an 88.
I thought the car was the greatest thing the day got it and the first thing I did was replace the timing chain, tensioner, and valve cover gasket, along with its first oil change. That made a huge difference in mine and made me love the car even more.

The next thing I did was replace the 4 shocks and I chose the Bilstein Heavy Duty, which are great, very strong, but you lose comfort, well at least here you do, because of the harsh roads. My next move was supposed to be Eibach springs, but because of all the other issues I encountered, it got put off....and that was 2 years ago now.

I replaced the valve seals, because of the horrible oil consumption, and that was one of the best things I think I ever did to this car, well worth it. I replaced the center resonator with an oem part from mercedes and replaced the 02 sensor about a year ago. I bought a sport stainless steel muffler last week and cut out the catalytic converter and replaced it with a straight pipe. It seems to be very quiet, up until last night when I started to hear a rattle, which I have no idea what it is, so I'll have to check that out next.

The head is making noise, I don't know if it is valves, lifters or what, but I can tell you that it is annoying, especially because my differential whines all the time now too.

Anyway, I've changed more parts than you can imagine on this car. I've spent much more in repairs than what I originally purchased the car for, so I can tell you one thing, be careful and calculate before you venture. I'm not trying to sound like a big complainer, but with the money I invested into my car, I could have been driving a nice W126 which has been proven to be more reliable. I wish I knew about this great site then, as I would have done some things differently.

Good luck and feel free to ask me any other questions you may have.
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  #11  
Old 11-21-2001, 10:14 PM
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Location: Saugus, CA USA
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Yes, once you squeeze the spring you fish out the pair of keepers and remove the spring. Keepers use the force of the spring to wedge them into the notch on the end of the valve stem. A magnet is handy getting them out. Then its out with the old and in with the new seals. The old ones may resist departure, just be careful not to dent anything around them. especially the smooth valve stem shaft.

I changed mine tying to get the oil usage down but it didn't change anything. I upped the oil vilcosity to the max 20w40 and its to a tolerable qt/1200 miles, almost doubling it. It annoyes me that I had a Peugeot diesel with 266,000 miles on it that leaked half that.
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  #12  
Old 11-22-2001, 02:48 AM
bg99ers
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I am begining to hear some cylinder head noise as well except I do not know what it is.. I also dont know how long those hydraulic tappets last either. I also think that since oil is leaking through the valve seals, it is causing gummed up valves and therefore not letting the vavles sit properly! which all equal less power and slow engine response! I just want to find out what makes that annoying valve train noise and get rid of it. I guess thats what 200K miles does to your engine!
I have done everything on my 190E myself and so far I have been successfull in completing the pervious tasks! So I am hoping to do more in depth work on it this winter break!
Note to ASHMAN:
Bekkers does offer great performance products for 190E's but they are beneficial to those that have the race bred cosworth 2.3 16V engine 190E. Then you can do some cool stuff! How bout pumping 300+ horses out of a 2.6 litre? Now thats something!
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  #13  
Old 11-22-2001, 04:10 AM
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Ahhhhhh

Thanks for the correction, I havent been to bekkers in a while... too many things I want to buy not enough money to buy it. like half the damn catalog!!!



Alon
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  #14  
Old 11-22-2001, 05:17 AM
bg99ers
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Nice Car ASHMAN!

OUT OF THIS TOPIC!!
I think that you have a wonderful Machine already! I am sure you can find some performance products for your 300CE as well. Its using the 4 valve per cylinder concept, so I think you can add some mild street camshafts and who knows, a Turbocharger and your all set!
Just a thought! heheh.
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  #15  
Old 11-25-2001, 03:24 AM
bg99ers
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I am trying to Decide what to do now!

Hello All.
After Searching all the posts and reading related threads about valve stem seals, I will definitley going to go for the seals first and it seems to be an easy task for me! But @ almost 200K miles, do you think I should pull the head and have a headshop rebuild it for me as well? It sounds like the Valve guides are also worn out at this point too. Just thought I'd ask for you opinions!
Thanks Once again.
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