I BOUGHT HER! =D
 

Hey guys, whoever has read my last thread knows about the white 90' W124 I was about to buy. Well I checked it out and followed some advice from long-gone. Unfortunately I did find oil in the coolant :(. But I couldn't resist, and just went and bought it. I checked everything else and it is just beautiful. Everything in the interior works, every single little detail.

So I towed it back and started working on it with my buddy. The engine turns fine, I put new oil in there and coolant for now. Won't turn over though, we checked we tried using some starting fluid lightly over the air intake and it turned over for just a few seconds then died. I'm assuming there must be a fuel delivery issue? Any pointers out there for that before I rip apart the system, hehe. I'm hoping it's just something gunked up and needing replacement (hopefully filter? :rolleyes:). Thanks again guys! :D

WOW, that is super clean. I'm jealous!

Check that your fuel pump(s) are working.

Also, don't say "turned over" when you mean to say "ran". "Turning over" is what happens when the starter is engaged and cranking the engine. :)

Gotcha! ;)

I thought of that also (Fuel Pump) but when I turn the key to 2nd you can hear it whizzing. Spark plugs looked pretty dirty, but, I'd assume if it was the spark plugs even with the starting fluid nothing would of happened huh? :(

Could be a clogged fuel filter...also could be a large vacuum leak not allowing the engine to start.

You can crack each fuel line at the distributor to see if you're getting fuel, and if not, which cylinders aren't getting fuel. In case you don't know, you just have to unscrew the line like 1/4 of a turn, and watch for fuel to dribble out.

Good Job!
I doubt you'll regret it, but you've got a bit of work ahead of you.
There's lots of threads and articles here and on the net for the head gasket. Get a manual first. I did my head gasket using a Haynes manual and tips from here. I'd suggest the CD rom Factory Service Manual (FSM) and the "E Class Bible" for a thorough look at your car's systems and detailed maintenance.

As far as the gas, several threads here on the subject of old gas and sitting cars. Some were fairly recent. My car started and ran fine after sitting for about a year, I only added some new gas to what was about a quarter tank of old. I've had other cars that sat for a few years or so and got them started okay as well. Yours sat for much longer, but in perhaps more stable weather. Don't know if that's a plus or not, but old gas can sometimes gel or form a hard shellac. Gas tanks can also rust, precipitate a sediment in the gas and I've heard a black bacterial goo can form as well. Maybe I've been lucky, but I don't have much experience with that sort of thing happening, I'm sure someone here will have some better advise.
If the gas is bad you don't want to circulate it through the fuel distributor and such, so I'd start by disconnecting the fuel line at the fuel distributor. Put a hose on it and run it into a jar. Turn the key to position II and see if the pump comes on (it's under the rear pass side, behind a plastic cover).
Listen for it humming as well. If no gas comes out try cranking it for just a few seconds. If it still doesn't come out it could be mechanical (the pump, blockage, etc) or electrical but at least that'll get you started.

Check the OVP relay, nice catch

JCDW124, change the fuel filter and spark plugs. Check the condition of the distributor cap, rotor and ignition wires. Neglected ignition system components can cause the ICU (ignition control unit) mounted on the left front inner fender to fail, and the engine will never start if that's the case. If you get the ignition system components up to snuff and the engine still won't start I would try a borrowed ICU from a running car and see if that solves the problem. New ICU's are expensive and you don't want to start throwing parts at the fail-to-start problem.

Of course it's possible that the entire fuel delivery system is clogged.

Keep in mind there's a reason that 1990 W124 sat unused for 5 years.

Hi there and welcome to the forum....

That body's is nice and clean as is the interior. I know how to fix those cloth wrapped door seals, by the way.... Hit me up when you get ready to tackle it.

Anyways, you do have a lot of work ahead of you, but that's okay. When you're done you'll really enjoy that car. Good job getting a single stage (non clear coat) painted model. The single stage paint will last if maintained but most of the clear coats are starting to peel up these days unless they were really well cared for.

After sitting for 5 years, you are going to have a host of problems, sadly. Expect to spend 2-3K on getting it back up to snuff. ALL the fluids will have to be replaced. It sounds like you're in need of a head gasket job since you have oil in your coolant. The fuel system is going to need to be cleaned out and degummed pretty badly. Lots of hoses will be shot, expect to replace brake hoses and probably calipers as well......

There will probably be plenty of vacuum leaks as well, but the importance of the ignition and fuel systems being up to snuff on these motors cannot be overstated.

I would not advise doing too much running of the motor if your head gasket is shot, but some brief running to assess things should be okay.

Check out the air meter plate, and make sure it will move. It should get harder to press down on the plate when fuel pressure is present as it should be when the key is 'on'. Check your fuel delivery, but also check for problems with the wires, cap and rotor as these engines are high RPM and wear out those components faster.

Do yourself a favor and get rid of the coolant (use the right stuff), the oil, the trans fluid, the BRAKE fluid!!, and begin your restoration by beginning damage control.

Resist the temptation to drive it before it's ready!

LOL!!!
 

Thanks again guys for the great responses, don't know what I'd do without y'all! :D

Well, I took apart my tank, pumps, filter, etc. I found out the gas won't even COME OUT of the tank thanks to some really grimy green sludge stuff, super sticky. I stuck a wire hangar in there and managed to break a hole in the sludge so gas comes out now. Put everything back together, still no fuel past the pumps (even though they make sounds).

So now I found even more crap in the pumps, so what I'm going to do is buy a new pump (x2), filter, fuel accumulator, tank to filter hose, and remove the tank and clean it. So pretty much everything from the tank to pump will be squeeky clean!

I was, however, wondering how do get rid of that grime, (whatever you call it). I almost just want to stick acid in there (lol kidding). Any substance, chemical you guys know about that can leave that tank brand new inside? :)

You may have to remove the tank and have it professionally cleaned. Also replace the internal fuel filter while you have it out.

You will also have to flush all of the old fuel out of the system, all the way up to the injectors. Good luck! :)

Unfortunately I don't have a recommendation for a solvent right now, as I have no experience with this. As mentioned though, there are some threads here regarding this issue, so some forum searches might be very helpful.

When you find out what solvents to use it sounds like you may need to do some cleaning up front as well. When you get the new pump and lines in you should disconnect the fuel line at the fuel distributor, put a hose on it and into a clear jar. run the pump and see if that line is clean. If you're lucky enough to have a clean fuel distributor you don't want to pump any crap through it.

Since you need to do the head gasket, that's a perfect time to pull off the manifold and inspect the fuel distributor, fuel lines, pressure regulator and injectors. The fuel dist. uses an o-ring for a gasket and you'll need two small o-rings for the EHA valve attached to the side of it (a common gas leak on these)
I'm not sure I'd recommend taking the fuel distributor apart. It may well be be okay to do so, but I've never done it so someone else might offer some better info there. Maybe go to a local scrap yard and see if you can pick up one to use if it's clean and you can then try refurbishing yours and have a spare. I suppose you could also try using your new pump, a battery, some hose and 2 plastic water jugs to circulate solvent through it.
Maybe you'll get lucky and there won't even be any gunk in it, but there's some pretty small delicate parts and machining in there that wouldn't take much to clog or get stuck. The fuel inlet (on the right side of the fuel distributor as you stand on the driver side of motor well) has a metal filter incorporated into the inlet nut. You might want to replace it (inexpensive dealer part). Grab a pressure reg at the scrap yard as well (I keep a spare in my tool box).

JCDW124, instead of buying new fuel pumps remove them from the car and use a 12-volt battery to run them backwards while pouring kerosene in the outlet/discharge port. (Kerosene is less volatile than gasoline and safer to use.) Avoid randomly replacing good parts or you will spend a small fortune getting your new purchase running.

I agree with removing the fuel tank and getting it professionally cleaned. You might try using compressed air to blow out the fuel lines from the engine compartment back towards the fuel pumps, after removing the fuel pumps and fuel filter. Also, "Search" for information regading how to clean neglected fuel systems. In my opinion you want to clean (even if it requires some disassembly) existing parts rather than replace parts, or you will spend more than the car is worth to get it running.

Maybe use biodiesel as a solvent? I'd also disassemble whatever possible and try to clean first, replace only if needed.

If you do it all yourself, you will create a large amount of toxic sludge. Maybe a radiator shop can boil out your tank?

Well guys, I tried connecting the pumps to a battery. And I guess I was wrong. They are infact dead. :( The fuel line from the filter to fuel distributor is clean and clear, haven't opened the distributor but from the looks of it by removing the lines it looks pretty clear inside.

As for the tank, I would actually prefer taking it somewhere to get cleaned out. Just didn't know there are shops that do that. :O

P.S. Thanks for all the responses and help guys! :D

If the line to it seems pretty clear and the distributor lines seem clean as well, I'd leave that end of it alone for now. Get the tank and pump end up to par put some gas in with a proportionate amount of techron (or equivalent) and see if it starts and idles well. You can probably expect it to idle a little rough like most of these cars do even when they're in roadworthy shape.

I don't advise taking it out on the open road until you've had a good inspection of the whole brake system. As someone previously mentioned, when the brake hoses, lines, rotors, calipers, etc. have been deemed satisfactory, or replaced as necessary, a flush of the brake fluid would indeed be a good idea.

Hopefully, if the head gasket leak isn't too severe yet, you can at least drive it just a little bit so you'll have some minimal expectation of how it should run and sound after you replace the head gasket. Be wary though, since these cars can usually be driven somewhat while the leak worsens (many times owners drive them for months not even knowing they have a bad head gasket) the reason they park them is because the leak has gotten to the point where they don't want to chance it anymore.
I drove mine until it literally started belching up large blobs of a grey-brown milkshake in the coolant tank within minutes of running, followed by abrupt overheating. Which is when I parked mine.
I let it sit for about a year, put in the gasket, took the opportunity to clean-up and redo the whole top end and whatever was now easily accessible with everything apart. It's been running beautifully since.

Which reminds me, you can probably plan on replacing the belt tensioner among other things (probably about $80-100)