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  #16  
Old 01-21-2010, 05:32 PM
latief's Avatar
1993 300E 2.8- M104
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Gainesville, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emerydc8 View Post
Actually, both the odometer and trip meter are inop, so maybe the gear in the picture is responsible. Thanks.
Very easy fix...go for it!!!!

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  #17  
Old 01-22-2010, 04:54 AM
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Thanks again. I'll probably wait until I find an LED display for the inop outside air temp and do it all at once.
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  #18  
Old 06-18-2010, 04:53 AM
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HELP !!!

Hello, i read this topic as i have read hundreds of related topics and i am stuck...my battery from my 95 convertible drains when i leave the car for more than 24 hours...the battery is good, the alternator too...i have measured the drain and the car draws a steady 0.4A at all times...while searching for the problem i noticed that the horn for the alarm was disabled by the former owner...when i hooked it back up, the horn sounds...this makes me think that the alarm is faulty and in someway is always active,thus draining the battery...i tried to find the module, but cannot find it...i looked under the passenger footwel..nothing...i looked in the back of the trunk (took all the carpets out)...nothing...i should have a module as i have the horn installed...could anyone give me any idea where to look further...i am tired of charging my car every other day....thanx
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  #19  
Old 06-18-2010, 10:06 AM
latief's Avatar
1993 300E 2.8- M104
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 518
Quote:
Originally Posted by jesax View Post
Hello, i read this topic as i have read hundreds of related topics and i am stuck...my battery from my 95 convertible drains when i leave the car for more than 24 hours...the battery is good, the alternator too...i have measured the drain and the car draws a steady 0.4A at all times...while searching for the problem i noticed that the horn for the alarm was disabled by the former owner...when i hooked it back up, the horn sounds...this makes me think that the alarm is faulty and in someway is always active,thus draining the battery...i tried to find the module, but cannot find it...i looked under the passenger footwel..nothing...i looked in the back of the trunk (took all the carpets out)...nothing...i should have a module as i have the horn installed...could anyone give me any idea where to look further...i am tired of charging my car every other day....thanx
Not sure about this one buddy, could be under the rear seat? or trunk panels somewhere....

Post a separate thread in the forum, and you will get much more repsonses than on this thread..

good luck
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  #20  
Old 06-18-2010, 11:13 AM
I told you so!
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Motor City, MI
Posts: 2,853
I have the exact same problem with my 95 E320. I too have disconnected the horn, but my lights start flashing when the alarm goes buggy.

As mentioned earlier in this thread, I was told the unit is in the left inner wheel well, behind the trim in the trunk, and that removing this unit will solve the problem. I removed that unit, jumpered the relay in the dash, and thought all was good. Now two years later I learn that the car still flashes its lights, and the unit I removed from the fender well (part number A 124 820 19 89) is a radio amplifier.

Just like you, I'm back to square one.
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  #21  
Old 03-31-2011, 10:20 AM
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Posts: 590
Ignition kill relay

I did not know how to jump the ignition kill relay

Latief, thanks much for figuring this out, and posting pics to show us
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  #22  
Old 11-25-2011, 07:07 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 21
Worked perfectly

I am not sure how you figured out to bypass the security system this way but I just did it on my 1993 300D and it worked flawlessly. Thank you very much. It worked exactly as you showed in your photos.
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  #23  
Old 04-22-2012, 11:08 PM
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Location: Dublin, CA
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I discovered on my 1995 E320 you only need to ground connection 1 on the 14 pin connector at the ATA. This has the same effect as bridging the relay behind the instrument cluster and is a lot easier. Here is a quick test procedure.

Take a piece of wire about 2 or 3 inches long and strip both ends. Pull the 14 pin connector off of your ATA. Try to start the car, it should not turn over. Take the wire and bridge pins 1 and 2 (pin 2 is a ground) by sticking the wire in. Try to start the car, it should start.

I have had the wire in for several weeks now with no adverse effect.

Here are the wire function on my 1995 W124 E320 Pin Outs for 8 and 14 pin Plugs at the ATA:

8 Pin Plug (X2)

Connector 1 = Horn (yellow/black with red dashes) When power applied activates alarm horn on driver side fender under the hood

Connector 2 = Right front side light (grey) When power applied it turns on right front side light only (weird)

Connector 3 = All side lights, front and rear (grey/white) When power applied it turns on all side lights, front and rear

Connector 4 = 12V positive from auxiliary fuse holder (red/white [thick]) Constant 12V+

Connector 5 = 12V positive from auxiliary fuse holder (red/yellow [thick]) Constant 12V+

Connector 6 = Arm signal (yellow/pale blue + yellow/dark blue)

Connector 7 = Disarm signal (yellow/green x 2)

Connector 8 = Headlamps (yellow) Lights the low beam headlamps only when voltage applied


14 Pin Plug (X1)

Connector 1 = Power (brown/purple) To starter kill relay (K38) behind instrument cluster, you can over-ride K38 kill relay by grounding this wire.

Connector 2 = Ground (brown x2) Ground wires

Connector 3 = Power (red/white) 12V+ constant

Connector 4 = Trunk activation (yellow) Pulse activation from trunk.

Connector 5 = Unsure (green x 2) Pulse activation from left front door?

Connector 6 = Unsure (blue x 2) Pulse activation from right front door?

Connector 7 = Front doors (brown/grey) Open connection when either front door is closed, short to ground when either front door is opened

Connector 8 = Rear doors (brown/white with black dashes) Open connection when either rear door is closed, short to ground when either front door is opened

Connector 9 = Hood (brown/red) Open connection when hood is closed, short to ground when hood is raised

Connector 10 = Trunk (black) Open connection when trunk is closed, short to ground when trunk lid is raised

Connector 11 = LED (green/white) + connection to dash mounted LED

Connector 12 = Radio removed input (brown/dark blue) 12V+ when radio is in, radio out 0V

Connector 13 = Applied brakes input (black/red with white dashes) 12V+ when ignition is on and brakes are applied, no apparent function with parking brake

Connector 14 = Ignition “On” input (black/red) 12V+ when ignition (not ACC) is on, 0V when ignition is off

I have verified all the connections. I installed an after-market alarm (Bulldog) using these pin-outs and it works perfectly.

Last edited by Clanster; 04-23-2012 at 11:11 PM.
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  #24  
Old 08-15-2012, 01:11 PM
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Bump

for customer
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  #25  
Old 03-20-2014, 02:15 AM
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Join Date: Apr 1999
Posts: 2,638
slick jumpering at the ATA!

:-) neil
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  #26  
Old 08-31-2016, 03:58 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clanster View Post
I discovered on my 1995 E320 you only need to ground connection 1 on the 14 pin connector at the ATA. This has the same effect as bridging the relay behind the instrument cluster and is a lot easier. Here is a quick test procedure.

Take a piece of wire about 2 or 3 inches long and strip both ends. Pull the 14 pin connector off of your ATA. Try to start the car, it should not turn over. Take the wire and bridge pins 1 and 2 (pin 2 is a ground) by sticking the wire in. Try to start the car, it should start.

I have had the wire in for several weeks now with no adverse effect.

Here are the wire function on my 1995 W124 E320 Pin Outs for 8 and 14 pin Plugs at the ATA:

8 Pin Plug (X2)

Connector 1 = Horn (yellow/black with red dashes) When power applied activates alarm horn on driver side fender under the hood

Connector 2 = Right front side light (grey) When power applied it turns on right front side light only (weird)

Connector 3 = All side lights, front and rear (grey/white) When power applied it turns on all side lights, front and rear

Connector 4 = 12V positive from auxiliary fuse holder (red/white [thick]) Constant 12V+

Connector 5 = 12V positive from auxiliary fuse holder (red/yellow [thick]) Constant 12V+

Connector 6 = Arm signal (yellow/pale blue + yellow/dark blue)

Connector 7 = Disarm signal (yellow/green x 2)

Connector 8 = Headlamps (yellow) Lights the low beam headlamps only when voltage applied


14 Pin Plug (X1)

Connector 1 = Power (brown/purple) To starter kill relay (K38) behind instrument cluster, you can over-ride K38 kill relay by grounding this wire.

Connector 2 = Ground (brown x2) Ground wires

Connector 3 = Power (red/white) 12V+ constant

Connector 4 = Trunk activation (yellow) Pulse activation from trunk.

Connector 5 = Unsure (green x 2) Pulse activation from left front door?

Connector 6 = Unsure (blue x 2) Pulse activation from right front door?

Connector 7 = Front doors (brown/grey) Open connection when either front door is closed, short to ground when either front door is opened

Connector 8 = Rear doors (brown/white with black dashes) Open connection when either rear door is closed, short to ground when either front door is opened

Connector 9 = Hood (brown/red) Open connection when hood is closed, short to ground when hood is raised

Connector 10 = Trunk (black) Open connection when trunk is closed, short to ground when trunk lid is raised

Connector 11 = LED (green/white) + connection to dash mounted LED

Connector 12 = Radio removed input (brown/dark blue) 12V+ when radio is in, radio out 0V

Connector 13 = Applied brakes input (black/red with white dashes) 12V+ when ignition is on and brakes are applied, no apparent function with parking brake

Connector 14 = Ignition “On” input (black/red) 12V+ when ignition (not ACC) is on, 0V when ignition is off

I have verified all the connections. I installed an after-market alarm (Bulldog) using these pin-outs and it works perfectly.
Pin 1 to pin 2 connecting -instead difficoult remowing cluster to K38 relay - is a great solution, congratulation, thank you. IO am just upset about factory online ETM, they forgot about X42 location. There would be much easier grunding (or install an emergency switch) please help me about X42 location, at 1995 W124 ( E320) where is it??
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  #27  
Old 12-20-2016, 05:20 PM
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Posts: 2
On my 93 mercedes 300se w140 the relay behind the cluster its on the right side, and that is a buzzer when u leave yours or key inside..
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  #28  
Old 12-20-2016, 07:04 PM
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Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 2,878
How is it performed on a 92?
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  #29  
Old 12-24-2016, 05:40 PM
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Posts: 2
I have a 93 mercedes 300se w140, doe any one knows how to disconnect alarm. Right now the car won't start, and have no idea what to do. HELP
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  #30  
Old 12-24-2016, 09:42 PM
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Northern, Virginia
Posts: 2,034
Quote:
Originally Posted by jake12tech View Post
How is it performed on a 92?
A 1992 and earlier does not have the K38 starter lockout relay (the one behind the instrument cluster). To disable the alarm just unplug in under the passenger footwell and operate the vehicle as usual.

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