722.3 transmission removal - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ps2cho · #31 03-09-2010, 09:29 PM

Okay I've run into a little problem...
The pump gear as shown in this picture has an arrow. I swear when I removed it, the arrow was pointing up the same way I took the picture...I know this because like my previous photos I put tape on everything labeled "F#" for "FRONT FACING + NUMBER#" It was facing up.

The FSM states: "Insert pump gear in such a way that the chamfer (arrow) points down to the primary pump housing"

The ATSG states: "Insert pump gear so that the bezel (arrow) points to the radial roller bearing"

I believe that means that the arrow should be engine-side, not transmission side, or upside down than the picture above, right?
I'm confused which way I should put it back now

Anybody here remember which way they did it? I looked at the gear over and over and I can't tell any difference between top and bottom so maybe it doesn't make a difference? At this point though I don't want to make a silly mistake.

ps2cho · #32 03-10-2010, 07:39 PM

Anybody?

Hirnbeiss · #33 03-10-2010, 07:56 PM

It looks correct to me in the picture. The teeth should mesh opposite the crescent-shaped inlet port.

fred1948 · #34 03-10-2010, 09:01 PM

I believe that when they refer to the pump gear they are talking about the innner (driven) gear. There should be a chamfer on one side of the gear and that is the side that should be down when installed in the pump housing ('down' as in the side that enters the housing first when it is laying flat). I see no reference to the arrow that you have circled in your picture.

Does this help any? Maybe I am not understanding the problem.

compress ignite · #35 03-10-2010, 10:44 PM

I think you're asking about the Orientation of the Inner Gear?

I Know these guys can answer your question:
(You can communicate via e-mail with your pictures after speaking with them.)

ps2cho · #36 03-10-2010, 11:50 PM

Ok got it...I think I was getting confused with (arrow) meaning the arrow on the actual gear. The (arrow) they referred to was the arrow pointing to the chamfer in the photo. My orientation was right though (phew...). Chamfer down into the actual pump.

Got everything sealed up now...Going to drain any leftover fluid to make sure everything is fresh (for Synthetic) and do the K1 shift kit and that's it!

Here ya go...

ps2cho · #37 03-11-2010, 06:40 PM

K1 shift kit...

She is already to go back in now! Hopefully by the weekend we will see if all this effort has fixed the 2-3 flare and she is leak free! *fingers crossed*

ps2cho · #38 03-17-2010, 03:14 PM

Looks like I mislabeled a bag for the tranny->engine bolts...

I am left with a 2 bolts. Both same length, but one has a bracket on it that I can't see the purpose for.

Anybody happen remember which position it goes in or what the bracket supports? 11'o clock or 12'o clock?

Neither the FSM, nor the EPC show the bracket at all

John1 · #39 03-18-2010, 12:25 AM

Sure it is not an exhaust bracket?

John

ps2cho · #40 03-22-2010, 09:42 PM

Oh boy

No wonder I was having issues!!!
Looks like I made a whoopsie

I couldn't figure out why the TC wouldn't turn with everything back in. It was not happy at all...so 3 hours later everything comes back out and I find this...

Lucky I found both the broken pieces. While it was out I measured the Torque converter and it looks like the height is still in spec at 121.7mm vs 121.5mm new . The width was supposed to be 290mm new, but I measured 287.5mm...sound ok? There is no maximum in regards to the width. Could it just be the way it was welded?

The EPC only shows the pump as an assembly...can you purchase the gear separately? It looks like there was 5 revisions...so I am a little concerned over compatibility. The price of the entire assembly is not really an option...it is very expensive.

ps2cho · #41 03-22-2010, 10:05 PM

Was going back through my previous thread where I was just getting information ready for the removal. Was searchin for any hints at all for the gear find...and well...
300TE transmission removal (front pump seal)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Billybob

Taking the tranny out can be more than a bit easier than putting one back in my experience. Whether you're on a lift or on your back an adjustable tranny lifting fixture is indispensable, because you need the tranny right at the correct angle and height to get it together without a fight. It can be extremely frustrating trying to accomplish this by any other method. You can get a fixture that mounts on a standard floor jack for $40 or less.

I have found that taking some fine emery cloth to the “nose” of the torque converter and to the inside of the hole in the flex plat where it fits is sometimes the difference between it sliding together and a ball breaker getting it to slide together, takes only a couple minutes before hand to quickly knock of any rust or scale that could come between these parts.

Last thing before moving the tranny onto the engine is to double check that the torque converter is correctly situated and seated on the tranny input shaft, is this gets out of whack as you jostle things around getting the tranny into position, when you start pulling the tranny into place onto the engine you can damage the front pump.

There is a plastic plug on the lower driver’s side of the bell housing that you turn and pull out also. This plug extends into the bell housing in front of the torque converter. When you’re pulling a tranny some times the torque converter separates from the tranny input shaft easier than from the flex plate. If this happens as you pull the tranny rearward it will start to come and then the plastic plug will hang it up on the torque converter which is still stuck to the flex plate. If you can loosen the torque converter from the flex plate, not just the six bolts you access from the hole on the oil pan, but actually the torque converter turning freely from the flex plate you can avoid this. It’s just hard to get the nose at the center of the torque converter free from the hole in the flex plate most of the time. This plastic plug helps hold the torque converter from moving forward of the tranny input shaft when installing the tranny.

Well...looks like he called it LOL

ps2cho · #42 03-23-2010, 11:08 AM

Although it looks identical, its not listed on the EPC

I can use any of those I assume?

I've done a lot of googlin' and so far it looks like I am out of luck sourcing just a gear...I think I am going to have to buy the assembly. I'll try to find the best price as its a pretty unfortunate hit out of nowhere

compress ignite · #43 03-23-2010, 03:46 PM

# 140 270 00 97 is both a Mercedes and a Porsche Tranny Pump.
[ZF ? if it isn't ZF they will not use it.]

O.K.

Call Wolfgang @ MZF Bayer, Inc.
(A.K.A. Peter Schmid Transmission)
Toll Free: 1-800-372-TRANS (8726)
Phone:650-348-3990
Fax:650-348-3019
Email:mzfinc@pacbell.net
1331 Rollins Road
Burlingame, CA 94010

He says he can get you a nice used inner Gear for your transmission.

On all the Pump "Upgrades" you're seeing on the EPC...
I believe most of that is MB using up old stock
AND finally Standardizing the Pump on about 15-20 different Models.

ps2cho · #44 03-23-2010, 05:14 PM

Wow you are the man! I can't thank you enough for the reference. I hope he can help me out here. It would save me a LOT of time and money (as last resort was considering going to junkyard and pulling a transmission to get the gear...not what I really want to do, but I can't see $300+ fly out the window for this mistake...)

ps2cho · #45 03-24-2010, 04:24 PM

I emailed and have called twice...no response so far...

I put out some threads in classifieds sections in the possibility someone has an old transmission in their yard or something...