Beware! JTC 1801 coil spring remover threaded rod broke! - help!
 

On my third coil spring (W126). Did the back two ok, no problems. removed the front spring (8 coils just like FSM) and loosening tool to remove from spring when about halfway heard a pop sound. Now the tool will not compress or loosen! The rod just turns freely like it broke or is stripped! The tool is stuck inside of the removed spring and I can not get it to extend to remove metal plates!

Purchased tool new $199; Steve at sg-motorsports, ebay/paypal (emailed and left message to him). This is a new tool and have only used on three springs!!

Beware of these chinese (Tawain) crappy tools!!! No official JTC website or warranty details found on a google search!

Help Jim at 252-917-2363

Look at the bright side - At least your hands weren't in there when the thing gave......

Your right! Tool kinda of scares me now. Also glad it did it while spring was out and not in spring perch.

After using some pry bars and flat blade srewdrivers, I got the tool out! It had some how over extended the telescoping rod. I think 8 coils is too much for this tool making it overextend. The rear spring worked with 5 coils but the rear spring is shorter.

On the front spring how many coils should I compress?

Having one of these, I'm interested...Did it actually break or did the extension "unscrew" from the internal rod. Can you screw it back together now?

Yes, I can screw it back together. It did not break, thankfully! I thought I was going to have to get the sawzzall out and cut it in half to get it out, then go rent a German made Klann. Sure am glad.

Steve (who I purchased it from) emailed and said if you compress too many coils this may happen upon release (he said it is a built in feature??) At first tried to compress 7 coils. This was not enough too get spring out of perch.
Will have to try something up on the coil upon reinstall and passenger front side.

BTW. Rear trailing arm bushings CAN be done with trailing arms on the car!!! (1984 W126 short body) Just finished. I knew it could be done! No need to remove entire rear subframe assemby like the FSM says, No drive shaft drop needed, just had enough room to wiggle out bolt heads near flex disc. Did have to drop side subframe and sway bar links. Did not remove axles or brake lines. Did have to drop exhaust for drivers rear.

That's good to know. I don't want to have to drop another one but, DANG... those bushing bolts were tight. There was no way the inner bolts would come out on the W123 without pulling the flex disc.