I am planning to start doing my own oil change service on my recently acquired '95 W124 wagon but wanted to read something about the procedure. I have searched the archives to nary avail. Its first change since my ownership was performed by an indy shop that I had do initial service on the car.

I am a 'veteran' do-my-own-oil-change-guy of many years so I am well capable of the task, it's just, uh, umm - well :::AHEM COUGH::: er uh where's the OIL FILTER?!

Oh yeah, one more question - what are your thoughts on switching over to fully synthetic oil on this 'low' miles motor? It just turned 80K last evening.

Thanks for the replies and I do understand that the first hour of consultation is free?!



NOTE: Since I posted this, I have done a search on "synthetic oil" and have several days of reading to do! Comment on YOUR thoughts if you have experience with the 320 motor and synthetic oils.

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Dale

On top. Open the hood and look to your right, on the driver's side of the engine is a black round cap that needs a filter wrench to remove it. Look at this DIY under "Resources" "DIY Articles", aside from the engine and filter location, yours is 95% identical. You can gravity drain the oil from the drain plug or use a vacuum device to pull through the dipstick.
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OilFilter2

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Prost!

Thanks!

I have looked at that DIY article but wanted something specific to the 320. Guess there's nothing out there?

If I want to drain from the plug, isn't there some sort of 'splash' shield or cover that comes into play? I'm sorry, I've not crawled under it yet to investigate.

Dale

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Dale

Try to get an oil that is NOT the newer "SM" standard. Try to get one that is the older "SL" standard instead. All the "SM"s say they also meet "SL", but they are NOT the same and they are NOT as good. They have reduced levels of ZDDP (zinc phosphate). I've noticed that Royal Purple synthetic is still "SL" but you better check to be sure. I'm running some old Amsoil that I have a stash of that is "SL" but I don't know if their new stuff still is.
Regards, Eric

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89 300E "Benzer1" 15.924 Uncorrected
93 400E "Benzer3" 14.200 U.C.
95 E420 "Benzer4"
92 300E "Benzer5" 16.299 U.C. Future turbo CNG
87 300D "Benzer7"
87 300D "Benzer8"
87 300D "Benzer9"
87 300D/70 AMC Javelin "Sidewinder-Benzer"
87 300TD "Benzer11"
06 E320 CDI "Benzer12"
05 E320 CDI "Benzer12A"
71 AMC Javelin AMX 401 "Sidewinder"
74 AMC Hornet 401 "C.K.10" 13.63 U.C.
74 Bricklin SV1 "Presto" AMC 360 pwrd.

Yes, you have to remove the splash shield under the engine; about 6 or 8 screws.
To remove the oil filter cap (this car uses a cartridge type filter) you will need a special oil filter wrench. There are specialty wrenches that sell for many $$ but I found one that was a perfect fit at AutoZone. It is sold under the OEM trademark and is called "Oil Filter "B" Cap Wrench". Only cost a few dollars.

Thanks for the replies Eric and Fred...

I've always said, "You guys are the BEST!"

I can always depend on an answer here

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Dale

Understand that on any German car that if a drain plug has a washer, this washer is always replaced with a new one and never reused.

This car is designed to have motor oil "vacuumed" out the dipstick tube, and it's sure an easier process and removes the same amount of oil (or more) than draining.

It's the 21st century--why would you even consider nonsynthetic motor oil?

And forget completely all SMs and SJs and viscocity figures and look instead for Mercedes specification approval printed ON THE BOTTLE. Follow recommendations here: http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/9511/?requestedDocId=9511

Your best bet for motor oil is Mobil 1 European Formula 0W-40, which meets Mercedes specifications. Remember, if the Mercedes 229.x number is not printed on the bottle, the oil is NOT suitable for a Mercedes.

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Kent Christensen
Albuquerque
'07 GL320CDI, '10 CL550. '01 Porsche Boxster
Two BMW motorcycles

Wow! Where do I start?

First off - (Question) Those of you who take your cars to the dealer for routine service, do they do a top-side evac of the oil when performing an oil change? Just curious.

Draining by gravity has always worked well for me. I once borrowed a buddy's evac tank for a boat I once owned and I have to tell you, it took a lot longer to get the same amount of oil evac'd than had I been gravity draining it. It only makes sense to me that I will leave more of the old oil in the pan by using vac than draining - after all, I don't believe you can beat gravity when it comes to draining oil! (BTW, I would need to buy another 'space-gobbling' tool that I really don't have the space in my garage for!)

Second - in response to the 21-century remark AND answering your question, "why would you even consider nonsynthetic motor oil?" - I have lived long enough to understand that I will not trust my own personal 'thoughts' or 'feelings' or 'understanding' on how things work or should work or how it will perform if I do 'X' without first delving into it and ASKING others who may (or may not) know a whole bunch more than I on any given subject matter! Such irresponsible attitudes can end up costing far more than I may be prepared for due to damage that might be done. As I have read here someplace, there are as many 'opinions' on this issue of oil as there are members and I am grateful for your link that has educated me more so than before your finger hit the 'submit' trigger!

Third - addressing your last statement, "Remember, if the Mercedes 229.x number is not printed on the bottle, the oil is NOT suitable for a Mercedes." A quote from the link you so graciously provided states: "Mercedes-Benz recommends the use of MB-approved engine oils listed in the Mercedes-Benz oil specification sheet 229.3 or 229.5 which also meet ACEA and/or API classifications listed on the chart below. If a MB-approved or ACEA quality engine oil is not available, then an API quality engine oil meeting the below listed API classification can be used.(SJ or SL - added by me) Only engine oils (including synthetic) with any of the following classification grades, or combinations thereof, are approved."

Now, if I understand this, (looking at the chart in the link) if the bottle has an 'SJ or SL API Classification', it is fine to use.

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Dale

Who was the dumb #ss C.E.O. in Germany that forgot to put a drain plug.
I'll remove my pan and weld a big nut.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

Yes they do.
You're not going to get all the oil out with either method but the amount left behind is inconsequential.

The advantage is working from the top which is more convenient and that's also where the filter is. What's your life worth? As in the car falls on you. Risk isn't zero. And the time saved not raising the car will help 'defeat' gravity.

Synthetic oil is an organic chemical manufactured to eliminate the components that break down and cause problems in lubricants made from crude oil. The result is a longer service cycle, less wear and corrosion. There is a lot of scientific data to support that. Hence the surprise you wouldn't consider switching.

I highlighted in red the important part.

First and most important, it's your car and your money. So it's your right to make the choice. Like many others on these sites I want my car to last as long as possible so I'm going to use the factory recommended fluids, filters and service cycles in my belief that will help. I think that is prudent but it's not a universal opinion.

Note: to oldsinner111 - look on the right side of the pan. I think you'll find the drain plug there. Maybe the dumba$$ CEO thought it would be safer since it can't get sheared off.

Working from top side does indeed have my attention, just never considered it until now!


Huh?! That was half the reason for this thread. Because I am considering it, we are having this "conversation"!

Agreed. My point is - IF it's NOT available, it's not going to terminally injure the motor!

We're on the exact same page!

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Dale

I got an extractor from Harbor Freight recently for $140. Here's the link:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=46149

It fits the Benz very well. It has a number of attachments, various sizes of steel and nylon pipes to suck through, but the point where these attach to the unit is an o-ring fitting that exactly fits the dipstick tube in my 606. I can suck through the tube itself for all that's worth, then insert a nylon pipe and suck just a bit more.

No manual pumping. It produces a 25" vacuum and is very quiet (when the air compressor isn't running, that is). That kind of vacuum will evacuate the crankcase in short order.

For a Chinese piece, it's rather nice. I had to replace the air inlet fitting to match my other connectors, but that's it for modifications.

Well, early W210's with the 3.2l V6 suffered from sludge buildup when owners mistakenly used non-synthetic oils, paper media filters and then tried to use the FSS to determine oil service cycles. Although rare a heavily sludged engine is pretty much toast unless you are able to tear in down entirely and clean it. Cost at a dealer would be more than a replacement.

So if you want to use a non-recommend oil, I'd say shorten your service cycle to 4-5K. Less for heavy service like dusty conditions or mostly stop and go. The irony is that if you do the math, 3 oil changes and paper filters costs almost the same a 1 synthetic oil change and a fleece filter.

As for availability, Mobil 1 European Car Formula 0W-40 (229.5) is available from amazon ($7/qt) but may also be available at PepBoys, Kragen (in the west), O'Reilly's, Autozone, etc. Okay you get the idea.

Also, the doc lkcris posted lists the 229.3 oils which are also recommended for any of the gas engines (except AMG) prior to 2005.

Good luck whatever you decide.

Mind you, if you switch to synthetic you can expect oil leaks in places there were none before. The detergents in the synthetics will clean out that engine and any oil seals that have gummed up enough will expose any holes or cracks in the seals that have formed over time. Synthetics are better oils, but they do have their downsides.

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Allen Kroliczek
Oak Grove Autosport | Oak Grove Autosport
01 G500, 82 300TD, quite a few more.....

85 DSEL, MB dealers sell the oil filter housing wrench with a male hex head to accept a socket wrench. As you have probably discoverd by now the oil filter housing is between the back of the engine and the firewall.

It's easier to suction the old oil out through the dipstick tube than draining it from the oil pan drain hole. That's how the MB dealers do it. Consider purchasing a Griot's Garage oil/liquid extractor. I have been using one for 12 years, and it simplifies oil changes.

As for oil I use Mobil 1 15W50 in our 1995 E320. A changeover to synthetic oil at 80,000 miles should be uneventful. I switched ours over at 130,000 miles and at 165,000 miles the engine is still bone dry.

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Fred Hoelzle