OP - I listened to your video. What one hears on a youtube vid and what they hear in person are quite often 2 different things, but all in all, the car does not sound all that bad.

If you google "M103 fuel smell" and read all that's out there you'll find more than one post where the problem "seemed" to self-heal. I don't believe in voo-doo, but before you start throwing a lot of $$$ at this, I would simply ensure you have a good fuel supply(filter(pump(s), spark plugs, air filter. etc(the easy to do basics) and eye-ball the EHA and injectors for leaks.

A lot of these older MB cars that are picked up used have been sitting around for a good while with little or no use. The best thing you can do sometimes is fill the tank with fresh fuel and drive the car as much as possible.

Years ago there was an MB forum known as the Ritter-Easley List. A tech on that forum would occasionally advocate what he called an "Italian Tuneup". Ensure you oil is clean and full; then take the car out and push it, watching for radar of course and finding a suitable place to do this. I'm not advocating triple digit speeds, just a good bit of spirited driving.

Over a period of time you may find the vehicle performing better with your only expense being gasoline and your time.

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Mike Murrell
1991 300-SEL - Model 126
M103 - SOHC
"Fräulein"

Just fixed my hard start, low/rough idle, low speed throttle lag and lousy fuel mileage problems on my 92 300TE. I knew there was a vacuim leak, because spraying MAF cleaner at the base of the boot was causing the engine tp rev. I figured it had cracls, but no... Last guy that worked on it didn't get the intake boot seated all the way on the intake manifold! I installed a new boot and know exactly how they screwed it up. The injection body can be easily plopped down and bolted up, and the front side of the boot looks fine. It's on the back side, near the cruise actuator that it doesn't seat. You can't really see if it is fully seated without a mirror and flashlight, and you can't feel all the way around it. I had to make a tool out of 1/8" welding rod to reach down under and behind the airflow flap and push the back side of the boot down. Will try to add a photo of the bent up boot lip when I get home.

Mark around the eha valve before you remove it so you can replace it back in to the same place . Or it will have to be reset . Just replace the o rings

It took me about half hour and a lot of cursing to get the AFM boot to seat. A few times I thought I had it it wasn't on. ****ty job.

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Watch him go!!! link

#dontdealwithkahlil