The Reinz evap has been working for over 2-years now, with non issues. I think that "bottom" picture is just a plastic cap.

:-) neil

Well it seems like it is under vacuum, so I am going to leave it alone for now until I need to actually put it in.

Anyone know where the cheapest place is for Nylog red, or alternative? If any local stores like pepboys would carry something like this?

I've got all my parts in hand now other than this, so my work starts tomorrow!

At what point should I begin disconnecting the R/D? Should I get as much of the interior elements first before opening the system?

Delay opening until you have to. Then, best is to charge with nitrogen and plug any openings.

You might have a local auto a/c shop that sells parts, tools and supplies. It is quite common for these shops to also sell parts and supplies.

I got my Zylog with a very good o-ring assortment for less than $30. I think it was from ackits dot com.

You don't have to worry about your evaporator. Just leave it sealed until time to put it in.

No turning back now :D

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...ator/evap1.jpg
http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...ator/evap2.jpg

In all honesty that was pretty dang easy up until this point...Took me 2 hours to get to this point.

That's enough for tonight.

The wiring looks scary, but in reality most of it is left untouched so it makes it look much worse than it actually is. I just elastic band'ed all my parts together and labeled all connectors.

I have done all steps inside and outside. The only thing that remains now is disconnecting the expansion valve.

Since it will be out, do I need to plug that a/c line at all or will it be ok since I will be vac'ing and flushing the system anyway?

Almost out! :)

When opening ANY a/c component, it is ALWAYS a good idea to seal it up. Moisture and other elements in the air tend to cling inside these parts and can be difficult or impossible to evacuate. If the part is being removed and is small enough, wrap it up in a plastic bag. If the component is being left in place, find a way to plug the end.

It is illegal to do so today, but in the old days (Yep, I'm plenty old enough to remember them) we would "sweep" the system with just a small blow of refrigerant before sealing and evacuating. We did this by leaving a line or two loose and with manifold and refrigerant attached, just blew an ounce or less of refrigerant through the line to blow out the air, then immediately connected the item, sealed everything up, disconnected the refrigerant container and connected vacuum pump, then started evacuation. Of course, since this vents refrigerant, albeit a tiny amount, to the atmosphere, it is illegal to do so today.

Form the looks of your pictures, you have a little further to go. Once you see bare firewall, then you know you're close.

Is there any alternative to this? I called up NAPA and they said the closest store from me is 80mi away that carries this tape. Is there a substitute I could find at a Lowes or Home Depot that would work?

I used a butyl windshield sealer tape. I had a roll on hand that came from a local discount/salvage store. Has held up fine for the last 2+ years.

Would any of these do the trick?
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xhc/R-100507542/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

or

http://www.lowes.com/pd_31955-1410-V25WA_0_?productId=3032580&Ntt=window%20tape&Ntk=i_products&pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?newSearch=true$Ntt=window%20tape$y=0$x=0

Guess what this stuff is?

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1274750856

That's the non flammable version. On the back of the can it reads "Contains 100% Tetrafluoroethane". Well gee, I wonder what that could be :rolleyes: The EPA says it's ok to spray into the air though!!!

-Jason

The butyl rubber that I used was in a rope form that was about 3/8" dia.

I'm having trouble with the expansion valve...

Any of you guys remember how you got the nut unbolted that resides in between the two high/low side pipes? I can't get a socket in, nor will a wrench fit :confused: Not enough space between the two pipes.
It is my last step before I pull the box out. Already disconnected the r/d.

It's been a long time for me. Is this an Allen or is it a 10MM hex. I remember that it was a challenge when I replaced my expansion valve, but I don't remember how I did it. I have a very thin wall, short 10MM box end that I might have used. I do remember that it is one that will try your patience 1/12th of a turn at a time.

Sorry I can't help. It's one of those things you just work through.

I think that I used a 1/4" drive socket but my memory has failed me before. I don't remember it being much of an issue.

1/4" socket and a flex-extension.

Hooray :D

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...ator/evap3.jpg
http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...ator/evap4.jpg
http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...ator/evap5.jpg
http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...ator/evap6.jpg

That is quite the dirt buildup!!!!
And definitely leaking!

My heater core looks close to perfect...Only 1/2 bent fins...should I just leave it be or do these heater cores tend to leak at xxx miles?
If I chose not to replace it, what is the safest way to properly clean and flush it?

I am definitely replacing the pods LOL. Overall this took me ~5hrs for removal and box dis-assembly. But I'd rather not do this again...

I am seeing enough firewall now to tell that you made it.

As long as the coolant has been changed regularly, and it's not leaking, I wouldn't worry about the heater core.

Well prior history was not great...when I got the car the coolant was black. I've changed it about 3x and when I drained the coolant this time it came out clean with no other discolorations so I think all the junk has finally been cleaned out. No leaks. I should be OK?

Yeiks! That makes me want to clean my evaporator :eek:

-J

What chemicals would be best for flushing my heater core? I've heard white vinegar? I've flushed already with hot water and it is coming out clean, but I just want to go that extra step for safety.
I've picked pods over heater core...for better or for worse...Since I always use the correct Zerex G-05 and with the right intervals, I think I should last. Yes not ideal prior maintenance...but the car OTOH only has 88k miles.

Side question...Is the blower motor replaceable w/o pulling the box? It seems that way, but just double checking.

Blower motor is replaceble from engine bay under the wiper assembly. Regulator is under the blower.

BTW good job on the pull apart. That whole thing scares me to death. Glad my A/C works. (knock on wood)

I wouldn't flush the core if it has flow. That might remove some deposits, but at the same time it uncovers areas for new corrosion to start. Copper and aluminum benefit from having scale or oxidation layers to prevent further corrosion.
I still think you're gambling here and would replace the core of your 23-year-old. OTOH, I guess you don't need heat that often in SoCal. If it does leak, seal it off and wear a jacket.

I agree with the first paragraph of the post above. I would not flush it any further. Since the core has made it through several coolant changes, I don't think it will give trouble. With this statement I offer a disclaimer, however. It's all a crap shoot. Just because I think that it will be okay, doesn't mean that it will be.

Makes sense. If it does leak not a big deal. I'll take the gamble of heater core over the pods.

Going to clean up my box and start putting everything back together today.

I noticed there was a metal screen attached to the rear of the old evap. Should I transfer it over or is it not necessary?

Yes I would use the metal screen

MB manual says to take that screen and install on the new evaporator. I have done what you are doing. If you don't want to go back in after having a footwell full of coolant, I would personally replace the heater core, it IS 23 years old. What's another $100 dollars at this point??

In the FSM it mentions to 'glue' the screen to the new evaporator. What glue should I use?

Sorry for may seem like silly questions...but I want to make sure I get this right and not make silly mistakes like this.

I used RTV gasket maker. Put a blob of RTV in the same places as on original and embed the screen in it. Only problem with this is that you have to wait several hours for the rtv to set up.

I just tear off some small pieces of Sealtite and dab it on the screen to hold in place for assembly.

This is the oil I have...should work for the back-conversion right?

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...orator/ac1.jpg

New heater core:
http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...or/heater1.jpg
http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...or/heater2.jpg



----

Box is all sealed up..Only had 2 clips left over and couldn't see anything obvious. I tested all pods and only 2/6 were 100% functional 3 were dead and one was just holding on for dear life :eek:

I found this lodged in the top intake. Any ideas what the heck it is??? I don't know if it was something jammed in there that has nothing to do with the box, but I couldn't figure it out. I don't think it came from the box, but just double checking if anything jogs memory?

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...randomitem.jpg

Yes Ester is for R12 or R134a. I personally am old school and still use mineral oil, but there are many that use Ester with good success.

I remember reading something about removing the paint on the condenser...Is this what they are talking about?

I don't want to damage the fins, is it worth removing?
http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...condensor1.jpg

Roy said that you can flush with acetone and compressed air. I did mine that way and came out super clean. It flushed a ton of goo out.

Just do it outside!

Got the compressor off...Looks like it has been remanufactured at some point, but no date. Somewhere around the year ~2001. The car was not in use 2006 onwards and who knows when the A/C originally leaked out as I got the car and it was not functional, so it is probably safe to say the compressor has only been working for 3-4 years at best.

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...ompressor1.jpg

Now, the only seals are on the back that connect to the A/C pipes, correct? Nothing else I should do on the compressor once it is cleaned up and flushed with acetone followed by Ester?

I personally would not flush the compressor with anything but oil. Clean the condensor, but don't remove it.

My $0.02,

Box is back in and I will be attaching the bare minimum items to get the car started...Basically just anything that attaches to the heater box and the ignition lock and will start the car up. I want to make sure no leaks before anything else is attached.

Now I am at the point I will begin to flush all the hoses.

I have a DV Industries Vacuum Pump capable of 5CFM. Is that good enough? A friend gave it to me a while back as he was moving out...How long of an evacuation will it need once everything is ready?

http://images.channeladvisor.com/Sel.../7/DV-142N.jpg

Yep, that's a dandy vacuum pump. Even a small wet vane will get the job done, but it gets hot.

Just want to make sure I got this right...Correct me on any steps please!

1) Clean inside compressor using the ester oil and turning by hand until it comes out clean. Do I use compressed air after this? Add 20ml oil

2) Condenser needs to have the A/C Flush done to it followed by compressed air. No oil added. Does it matter which end flush it?

3) All hoses A/C Flush then compressed air (no filters/mufflers on our hoses? I'm reading you cannot flush these) Evap -> Compressor line = 10ml oil, Compressor -> Condenser line = 10ml oil

4) Expansion Valve/Evaporator....Leave it alone since it is new. Connect last. Add 40ml oil to evaporator.

5) R/D Leave it alone. Connect last - Add 10ml Oil

6) Connect everything up.

7) Evacuate system for X hours?

8) Fill system with 120ml oil and 2.4lbs of R12. Is it really 120ml or 120ml minus what I put in stated above?

All done!?

--

Thanks again Larry. I really appreciate all your input. Couldn't have done it without you! Never done this before. I'm good at doing...just need a little instruction along the way :)

Great...The Reinz evaporator did not come with an expansion valve. I thought it didn't look right. :mad:
So much for finishing this up this weekend.

Good news...Vacuum is pulling almost 75cm Hg! :eek: It held vacuum so obvious no large leaks or issues. Going to let it keep evacuating for a total of 1hour at those rates then filling with r12 :D FSM states 30mins, so 1hour should be fine. Can't wait!

Everything is plugged back in, no leaks.

I'm about to recharge, but something is weird with the flaps. The middle flap has no air coming out of it under any condition and the pods don't seem to be moving. I've switched between the heater, econ and off and nothing moves.

There is also this electrical 'cracking' noise coming from the main unit where all the vacuum cables go to. Does this sound like that unit is dead? Any ideas?

^ Figured out the above...the vacuum cable in the engine compartment fell out...

----

Larry,

Having an issue with the charging. I bridged pin 5 + 7 on Klima as the pressure switch wouldn't kick on the compressor and it is engaging, but the r12 does not seem to be sucking into the system. It took 1 can then basically stopped. Any ideas what is going on??

You may have to put your can into luke warm water to boil off refrigerant for the system to take it. This is common if you are charging in less than really hot weather.

You should NOT have had to bridge ANYTHING to get the compressor to turn. Once it has the pressure of a static charge after it takes whatever refrigerant it will take, then the low pressure switch should engage and the clutch should engage. Is it still bridged?

I just did what you suggested and it took another 1/2 a can...but has stopped drawing any more in again :(

Here are my static pressures. :confused:

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/phot...tatic-1can.jpg

Shouldn't the compressor have kicked on naturally by itself by now?

Yes, it should. I'm sorry, but I misunderstood your situation. I thought that the compressor had kicked in. You haven't hurt anything by boiling the refrigerant into it.

You need to trace the circuit. Do you have the factory wiring diagram? Basically the CCU supplies a hot to the low pressure switch at the r/d. The other side of the switch goes to the klima relay. With key on and I think even with engine off, there should be a hot at one side of that switch. If there is a hot on one side then move to the klima, if not move back to the CCU. Since you had everything apart, there might be one of the CCU's temp sensors disconnected.

Sorry I can't help any further.

It only kicked in when I jumped the pins 5 + 7 on the Klima, it has not kicked in by itself automatically. As I said, I bridged the two pins on the low pressure switch and nothing happened.
I have a functional A/C system on my wagon and I just swapped both the CCU and the Klima in and it still won't kick on by itself :mad:

...but either way, even when the compressor is ON by me bridging pin 5 + 7 on klima, it still is not pulling in the refrigerant...I'm lost here.

It looks like the footwells are closed....is there a way I can check if that main pod control unit is functioning as it should?

Footwells are closed in cooling mode IIRC.

Anybody else confirm this before I finish wrapping everything up?

Is there a procedure to check all the pods are functional seeing as I don't know which setting should move X pod?