My w124 evaporator removal thread

That's correct, a THOROUGH flushing of everything not new, then the correct amount of mineral oil or synthetic replacement. The green o-rings will seal with any refrigerant, but I recommend coating them with zylog before installing them as opposed to refrigeration oil.

Flushing of the compressor should NOT be done with solvent, but with the oil you choose for your system.

[Cal Learner]

Larry, my 124 was converted in 2001, and I wish now that I had resisted the temptation. How realistic is a re-conversion back to 12? I would not be doing the work myself. Are indies still willing/permitted to re-convert? How about availability of refrigerant? Interested in your thoughts.

EDIT: looks like you and I posted about the same time, so your latest response may address some of these points. Thanks.

Cal,

Unless your system has a problem of some sort or just won't keep you cool at all, I would not do the reverse conversion. Once the system has to be opened and repaired for some reason, then it would be a good step.

There are some states that have some crazy laws about a/c service, but I would expect that the Florida congress would have enough experience sweating that they wouldn't get too crazy about it. If that's the case, I believe that a shop could legally reverse convert an original R12 vehicle. The only thing that may come into it from a legality stand point is that they must RECOVER the existing refrigerant. That goes for either 12 or 134.

To do the conversion on a working system would require breaking of all connections, flushing all these broken apart components, flushing the compressor and replacing the r/d. It would be probably a half days work if nothing else went wrong.

[ps2cho]

Received my Reinz evaporator today...Looks good!

Funny question...Does it look like this thing came with the expansion valve? It said in the description it did, but it looks different than the ACM one...
Am I missing something here!?

ACM:


Reinz:

The top picture has an expansion valve, but I can't make out the bottom picture.

[ke6dcj]

The Reinz evap has been working for over 2-years now, with non issues. I think that "bottom" picture is just a plastic cap.

:-) neil

[ps2cho]

Well it seems like it is under vacuum, so I am going to leave it alone for now until I need to actually put it in.

Anyone know where the cheapest place is for Nylog red, or alternative? If any local stores like pepboys would carry something like this?

I've got all my parts in hand now other than this, so my work starts tomorrow!

At what point should I begin disconnecting the R/D? Should I get as much of the interior elements first before opening the system?

[babymog]

Delay opening until you have to. Then, best is to charge with nitrogen and plug any openings.

You might have a local auto a/c shop that sells parts, tools and supplies. It is quite common for these shops to also sell parts and supplies.

I got my Zylog with a very good o-ring assortment for less than $30. I think it was from ackits dot com.

You don't have to worry about your evaporator. Just leave it sealed until time to put it in.

[ps2cho]

No turning back now




In all honesty that was pretty dang easy up until this point...Took me 2 hours to get to this point.

That's enough for tonight.

The wiring looks scary, but in reality most of it is left untouched so it makes it look much worse than it actually is. I just elastic band'ed all my parts together and labeled all connectors.

[ps2cho]

I have done all steps inside and outside. The only thing that remains now is disconnecting the expansion valve.

Since it will be out, do I need to plug that a/c line at all or will it be ok since I will be vac'ing and flushing the system anyway?

Almost out!

When opening ANY a/c component, it is ALWAYS a good idea to seal it up. Moisture and other elements in the air tend to cling inside these parts and can be difficult or impossible to evacuate. If the part is being removed and is small enough, wrap it up in a plastic bag. If the component is being left in place, find a way to plug the end.

It is illegal to do so today, but in the old days (Yep, I'm plenty old enough to remember them) we would "sweep" the system with just a small blow of refrigerant before sealing and evacuating. We did this by leaving a line or two loose and with manifold and refrigerant attached, just blew an ounce or less of refrigerant through the line to blow out the air, then immediately connected the item, sealed everything up, disconnected the refrigerant container and connected vacuum pump, then started evacuation. Of course, since this vents refrigerant, albeit a tiny amount, to the atmosphere, it is illegal to do so today.

Form the looks of your pictures, you have a little further to go. Once you see bare firewall, then you know you're close.

[ps2cho]

___J. NAPA #MS 4196 Glass Butyl Tape 3/8” x 15’ for sealing heater core to firewall. Need about 5 ft.

Is there any alternative to this? I called up NAPA and they said the closest store from me is 80mi away that carries this tape. Is there a substitute I could find at a Lowes or Home Depot that would work?

[fred1948]

Originally Posted by ps2cho

Is there any alternative to this? I called up NAPA and they said the closest store from me is 80mi away that carries this tape. Is there a substitute I could find at a Lowes or Home Depot that would work?

I used a butyl windshield sealer tape. I had a roll on hand that came from a local discount/salvage store. Has held up fine for the last 2+ years.

[ps2cho]

Would any of these do the trick?
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xhc/R-100507542/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

or

http://www.lowes.com/pd_31955-1410-V25WA_0_?productId=3032580&Ntt=window%20tape&Ntk=i_products&pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?newSearch=true$Ntt=window%20tape$y=0$x=0