260E M103 won't start...
 

Drove to AZ from CA for the weekend...car drove fine. Had some issues with coolant temp getting close to red line during traffic jams, which I posted earlier. Started the car after it sitting for 2 days (took 3 attempts before it fired...which was a little odd. Usually fires first time after a 3-4 seconds). Drove it home 380mi and this morning it would not start. I cranked and cranked foot to floor-- did it about 6 attempts before giving up.

Home from work...so what should I look at?

1) I cranked, pulled the plugs (which are new as of 2 weeks) and did not look wet at all.
2) Little if any gas smells from exhaust.
3) I have spark.
4) Popped the upper chamber test port on fuel distib and there was pressure. Tightened, recranked and pulled port again and pressure, so it was not old fuel.

The heck is going on? :confused: I couldn't have blown a HG because she drove home fine without much of a hitch.

Do you hear the fuel pumps energize when you turn the key? Maybe your fuel pump relay gave up the ghost?

If you have spark I think that rules out the ignition coil, OVP, and CPS.

Yes I hear them. It's really odd...

In the last..8 months I've replaced Coil, Plugs, wires, OVP, rotor, cap, coolant temp sensor, thermovac sensor and all filters + fluids with brand new components. (To pass smog and general tune up as I have no history for car). So its gotta be something new here.

Have you done the fuel filter?

Yep. Fuel filter done. Literally all fluid and filters have been replaced.

I guess it could possibly be the CPS. I always thought that if the CPS was bad you wouldn't get spark. If you unplug the CPS connection at the EZ-L, and take a reading in ohms, should be ~800.

There are two coolant temp sensors on the head, one for the temp gauge, and one for the ECU. The ECU one can cause a no start situation. There is also a correct ohm measurement for that sensor too.

Also the good old standby villain, the OVP could be it too. You got a spare one to swap in?

A bad ovp won't cause a no-start condition and neither will the engine temp sensor. Both will cause rough running and a "slight" difficulty starting and open-loop condition, but not a no start problem.

Like I said, I am not seeing fuel on the plugs even after all the cranking I have done. What could be causing the fuel not to go from the fuel distrib (upper chamber?) to the final destination?

The OVP engergizes the KE control unit among other things, so depending on how it fails, it can prevent the car from firing. Personally seen this happen with a 190 2.6. Results depending on what solder joints break inside the relay.....the car eventually started, but took nearly 20 minutes of cranking!

Since the plugs aren't wet, there's no fuel getting to the injectors. You've already established that there is fuel getting to the distributor. Fuel pressure regulator or FD with ruptured internal diaphragm?

You are correct, it does provide power to the KE unit so the car can enter a closed loop environment, but the car will still start and run in open-loop mode -- Something that most people consider a blessing! Limp home mode will get you home!

I checked for any fuel leaks and I neither see nor smell anything.

I guess my best option is to replace the EHA then the fuel distrib with a spare? I couldn't believe all 6 injectors failed at the same time.

Possibly the plunger too? Although it seemed to depress without any sort of binding...

I'm just wondering if the fact the car was close to the red line had any influence on this or just coincidence...

Found this in another thread. See if it helps. :)

Getting that hot is not good for the engine, but if you had heating blasting, it shouldn't have really caused any damage. If the head gasket blew out and you lost compression on a cylinder or two, you should be able to hear the difference in the way the engine sounds while cranking. Low compression/bad HG would make it run like crap, shouldn't prevent starting.

Checked that filter...nothing obvious. Swapped EHA, no difference.

I think I should check all static fuel pressures now and find my CIS pressure kit....What a pain this is..Lucky I have my wagon!

Isn't EHA just for enrichment above 2500rpm?

Checking fuel pressure should tell the story, though. :)

Not entirely sure...All I can tell you is when I very first bought my 260E the original EHA was causing me major bottom end power issues which were immediately resolved after swapping it even though the fuel pressure readings were within spec. So I can say from experience it absolutely has an effect on idle and acceleration enrichment.

I wonder if this could be why? Just spotted it right now.
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/3640/imagejhb.jpg

Looks like a pretty big split. Can't believe that hose didn't even last a year...I did all the idle air hoses when I first got the car :(

Wow, I would suggest it could be. I can't remember the orientation, but if it is on the throttle body side, it would be causing a massive lean condition.