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  #1  
Old 05-11-2010, 09:48 AM
TheDon's Avatar
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when to change spark plugs

I have to admit, I've never changed spark plugs since I've always had a diesel.
so, how do I inspect them for wear and gap them, etc. Plus where can I buy non resistor type locally.

The E320 just hit 90k so the 90k service is going down under my hands. It wont all get done today but it will all be addressed before the next tear off page in the service booklet.

Doing the oil today as well. I think I have a blackstone labs thing to send it out in for ha ha's

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  #2  
Old 05-11-2010, 10:42 AM
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I think plugs are generally changed every 15,000km/9,000 miles.
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  #3  
Old 05-11-2010, 11:23 AM
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At your interval, replacement is your only option, don't bother with trying to re-gap them. They should be changed every 15k. You want Bosch H9DC0...Try your local dealer as most online stores now only carry the resistor HR9DC0.
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  #4  
Old 05-11-2010, 11:25 AM
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Every 30K with copper core plugs.
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  #5  
Old 05-11-2010, 03:02 PM
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http://viewer.zoho.com/docs/mSbqL

this might be helpful

BOSCH Part # F8DC4
******** $1.48
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(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
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  #6  
Old 05-11-2010, 04:03 PM
oldsinner111's Avatar
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I always use platinum plugs,and change every 100,000 miles.
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  #7  
Old 05-11-2010, 06:04 PM
pawoSD's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.B.DOC View Post
Every 30K with copper core plugs.
That is what I am following with the 300E.....so I have about 21k to go on the current set.
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'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
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  #8  
Old 05-11-2010, 07:00 PM
TheDon's Avatar
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ill try autozone for chits and giggle since I need to go dump oil after dinner.
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  #9  
Old 05-11-2010, 11:21 PM
pawoSD's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDon View Post
ill try autozone for chits and giggle since I need to go dump oil after dinner.
...they won'y have them. Dealer or ebay.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #10  
Old 05-11-2010, 11:45 PM
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http://www.google.com/products?q=F8DC4&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wf
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(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #11  
Old 05-12-2010, 01:01 AM
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Is the Bosch F8DC4 a Non-resistor plug? If so, what is the difference of it between the H9DC0?
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  #12  
Old 05-12-2010, 01:11 AM
JamesDean's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ps2cho View Post
Is the Bosch F8DC4 a Non-resistor plug? If so, what is the difference of it between the H9DC0?
Yes, non-resistor. As there is no R in the part number.

I am currently running Denso T20EP-U in my m103s. NGK BP5ES's in my m116.

F8DC4
F=14mm thread (5/8" hex)
8= Heat Range
D=Thread Reach 3/4" Regular Electrode
C=Copper Core Center Electrode
4=Special Shell or Electrodes

H9DC0
H=14mm thread diameter Tapered Seat
9 = Heat Range
D=Thread Reach 3/4" Regular Electrode
C=Copper Core Center Electrode
0=Special Shell or Electrodes

Spark Plug Decoders:

Bosch:
http://www.not2fast.com/ignition/bosch_spark_plugs_short.gif

NGK:
http://www.not2fast.com/ignition/ngk_spark_plugs.jpg

Denso:
http://www.not2fast.com/ignition/denso_spark_plugs.jpg

Champion:
http://www.not2fast.com/ignition/champion_spark_plugs.jpg
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #13  
Old 05-12-2010, 01:16 AM
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So the F8DC4 run one notch "colder" than the H9DC0's...Under what conditions are colder/hotter sparks favorable?

Also, can you explain the last # in the part number (Special Shell or Electrode)?

Just trying to understand which would be best for me as it looks like this spark plug has a lot of sources compared to the H9DC0

I switched from the H9DCO's which were fouled to new Denso non resistor and I cannot be 100% sure, but I feel like it seems to be idling a tad rougher...That is why I want to get a spare set of Bosch plugs to test it out as the old ones I had were fouled up from past leaking stem seals.
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  #14  
Old 05-12-2010, 01:32 AM
JamesDean's Avatar
Electrical Engineer
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 5,038
Quote:
Originally Posted by ps2cho View Post
So the F8DC4 run one notch "colder" than the H9DC0's...Under what conditions are colder/hotter sparks favorable?

Also, can you explain the last # in the part number (Special Shell or Electrode)?

Just trying to understand which would be best for me as it looks like this spark plug has a lot of sources compared to the H9DC0

I switched from the H9DCO's which were fouled to new Denso non resistor and I cannot be 100% sure, but I feel like it seems to be idling a tad
rougher...That is why I want to get a spare set of Bosch plugs to test it out as the old ones I had were fouled up from past leaking stem seals.
I cant speak directly to the conditions for hot/cold sparking, however this article from NGK might shed some light on it for you
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/p2.asp

I also found another Bosch Decoder:
http://imgur.com/Lyy6S.png

So H9DC0 vs F8DC4

The 0 and 4 in the end seem to be:
4 seems to have an extended insulator nose
0 just says "deviations from basic version"
So I take that the 0's were the basic version and anything above that is an "enhanced version" which whatever the number corresponds to...
__________________
Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #15  
Old 05-12-2010, 02:46 AM
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Posts: 3,525
Thanks for the links.

Quote:
As the air temperature or humidity increases, the air density decreases, requiring a leaner air-fuel mixture. If the air-fuel mixture is too rich, decreased performance and/or carbon fouling can result.
As I live in Socal/Arizona in the future, the 1 stage from is between 80-100C cooler according to the chart, but still puts it within spec. Since I live in a hot climate, the colder plug should work fine. I will go ahead and order now I have some better information! If you live in a cold climate, you would not want a colder plug or you would be running even more lean.

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