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Old 12-08-2001, 08:03 PM
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126 sunroof angle lifts (argggghhh!)

Trying to get angle lift brackets back in my 1984 300SD. Apparently they were broken during a thorough repaint and were not replaced (sunroof wedged closed and switch disconnected). If I had the old pieces it might be obvious how it goes together, but they're long gone. I've got all the rest of the sliding only sunroof together and operational, but I can't tell if these angle lift brackets were riveted in or srewed in the side rails(tough to see, even with the rails out). The roller guide brackets are in place but the plastic rollers are shot also. Do the replacement angle lifts rivet in? (remove entire sunroof frame?) Can they be pop-rivetted w/o removing the frame? Since it's a lousy pot metal part does the replacement have easier installation (ie. screw in to the side rails)? Or do they only attach to the top cross piece with bolts and set in to the side rails w/o a solid attachment? Checked archives here and my CD and need more info., particularly if you've done it before. I understand these lifts are a little pricey and wanted to see what I'm in for before ordering the parts.

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Last edited by jbaj007; 12-08-2001 at 08:24 PM.
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Old 12-08-2001, 09:12 PM
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If you are not familiar with this repair, you almost certainly need the body manual that explainse the 16 step adjustment procedure.

There are pics in it that help you along the way. I'd bet it is on the 126 CD.
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Old 12-09-2001, 02:51 PM
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The lifting angle is three separate parts, riveted together -- the replacement is the entire sliding section for each side. The new ones are much sturdier than the old ones. Cost me about $95 each.

To remove, remove chrome slide rails, liner, roof panel, and rain gutter on the rear, unscrew from translation bridge (three screws on each side), slide lifting angle to forwardmost position, and rotate out from channel. The entire sliding portion comes out. The translation bridge will probably be wedged sideways and you will have to mess about with the manual crank and have someone pull and push to get it to move. If you cannot get the roof panel to move back far enough, you will have to pull the liner out from the bottom -- this is tricky and can ruin it.

Hook replacement into channel after lubricating all the felt sliding pads with MB sliding sunroof paste (don't substitute, this is special stuff!). Install translation bridge, rain gutter, and sliding panel. Get the manual, there are a number of steps and they all have to be correct or the roof won't work correctly!

There are a number of posts on this subject from this Fall on the forum -- look them up and see what you are in for. Not a difficult replair, just takes some time to get everything right! You don't have to assemble the lifting angles.

Peter
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1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
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Old 12-09-2001, 10:44 PM
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Peter,

I've got the manual and had familiarized myself with it, but because the broken parts had been previously removed by someone else, I wasn't getting the rivet thing straight in my mind. What I have, apparrently, is part of it... derivetted(is that a word?). Your explanation clarifies it perfectly and I've already disassembled it, so I'll get the parts and do it next weekend. Thank you, Bruce.
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Old 12-10-2001, 10:07 PM
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Bruce:

Mine had been glued shut with body sealer, then pried open and the liner pulled out from the bottom (and bent all to hell) when I got it -- the roof was held in with tape (yuck, some of it is still there!) and with red shop rags stuffed in the sides.

Both lifting angles were broken, and some bits were missing, so I know exactly what you have. Hard to tell just what is going on.

Make sure you get all the bits out from the rails -- I found a chunk under one side that could have screwed me up.

I need to finish my repair -- the roof panel requires to be painted at the edges, and the front slides were missing (!) -- I've not gotten the little pads installed yet. It does open and close, however, and does not whistle or leak.

I presume you do not want to purchase the special tensioning tool to pull the roof panel up tight, so I suggest you simply move the translation bridge back a few millimeters and hold the roof panel forward by hand when installing. It is important that it fit tightly at the front, or it will drag too much on the back edge. Don't forget to remove the alignment pins if you have them before you move the translation bridge back!

I suggest also that you leave the panel just slightly under flush at the front and just slightly over flush at the rear -- this seems to give the least wind noise.

Good Luck!

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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