Head gasket job help? Please? 1991 300te 4matic
 

Good afternoon, my head gasket job (1991 300te 4matic) has been going 'so far so good' but just before I remove the head I have run into two wee problems.
1. My chain rail pin tool does not fit. Where in the world can I source the correct sized tool, or can I make one?
2. My chain tensioner inner threaded ring looks like a 17mm xzn fitting WTF?

1. I had to make a tool to fit the chain rail pin. I do not recall the exact size of the bolt I used, however mine was made up of a few washers and some plumbing parts including an outdoor faucet head and knob. Basically anything that functions like a slide hammer will do the trick, in this case a long bolt to fit the pin with some weight that will slide a couple inches. Between editing this post I searched my garage for the tool I threw together, but I sadly could not find it.

2. If you are talking about the ring that holds in the tensioner it is (I think) a 17mm hex drive. I used a ratchet and one of these:http://www.venturerider.org/progress...gressive15.jpg

Hope that helps!

thanks for the help.:)

Here is what I used:

bolt
 

To add to ps2cho. I could not see his pictures, perhaps this is not needed. Get a bolt that is long enough to put a washer and nut between the head of the bolt and the socket. Then you can hold the bolt to keep the pin from spinning and pull the pin out by tightening the nut. Give the pin threads a good shot of cleaner to make sure you can get the bolt in. Last thing you want to do is strip the threads. It works like a champ, I think much easier than the slide hammer.

I got the 17mm hex sorted out thank you...but.

After further analysis the 5mm doesn't engage but goes through to the end of the chain pin, so I think I am dealing with either:
1. A slightly mis-shapen 6 mm pin opening from some sort of damage. or
2. A non standard size (13/64 or 7/32?) - is that possible?
Tomorrow I will carry on.

pin
 

It should be 6mm. Someone previously may have buggered up the threads. Happened on my old 380. They may clean up with tap. Otherwise since the threads are bad, you should replace the pin anyway. Last resort is to epoxy a 5mm or what ever you can get to fit, and use that to pull the pin out.

It looks like the opening is too small for the 6mm but the internal threads are still 6mm because the 5mm will not bite. Also,looking at it the front of the pin is non-threaded, about 1cm in I can feel the threads.
I am considering putting a drill into the first 1 cm to open it up a bit and see if I can then reach the threads with the 6mm.:confused:

I tried a 6mm tap on it, cut a few threads and it pulled right out:D
Looks like the person who did the last head gasket job installed the pin backwards - making the removal of it a bit stressful for me! Onwards and upwards!:)

I got everything sorted, ready to lift cylinder head out tomorrow! Unfortunately my chain guide is as brittle as my dead grandfather's bones and it exploded when I looked at it:mad:
meatpiesausagerollcomeonEnglandgetagoal!

Cylinder head is now off, had to use a turkey baster to remove old coolant.
Next - clean it up, change the valve stems and seals and take it to the machine shop.

IMO you have it off, spend the little extra and get the valve guides done. The valve stem seals are a bandaid fix for worn valve guides. I think it would be foolish not to unless they have been done in the last...20k miles.
my 2c

I have got the guides as well, I will get myself a generic spring compressor and have at it.

Generic spring compressor was a total waste of time and money... Everything goes to the machine shop to be sorted by the pros...

Might be a good choice :) Make sure he pressure tests it too along with the skimming.