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  #16  
Old 08-08-2010, 04:56 PM
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I have a screen shot of the diagnostics, just gotta find it.

Clicky:


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82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
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  #17  
Old 08-10-2010, 09:13 AM
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Bump up for this thread.

Bump up for this thread.
I'm still flowing this thread's result. Any good conclusion????please share so i can fix my too...thanks.
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  #18  
Old 08-10-2010, 03:20 PM
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I hooked the duty cycle up again yesterday. Stayed at 81%, revved it up to 2500 rpm, got the engine over 80C and still 81%.

80% points to an issue with the IAT.

Put ohmmeter on IAT, one way shows "OL" and the other way shows 0.00, so I'm guessing thats the bad part.

Gonna order IAT and report back.
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  #19  
Old 08-14-2010, 11:13 PM
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Got the IAT in. Car still runs like crap and still have a duty cycle of 81%.
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  #20  
Old 08-16-2010, 12:41 PM
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too rich or lean.......

Quote:
Originally Posted by redassag00 View Post
Got the IAT in. Car still runs like crap and still have a duty cycle of 81%.
Try to reset your ECU to see what happen! Do you have any check engine light on? if do flowing the code to fix fault and make sure you have NO vacuum leak and good fuel pressure!!!!
I have a similar problem car run too rich, try to measure the Oxygen out at Idle Reading should be .1XX to .7XX volts (nominal is .5XX+-.0xx). If not Adjust the mixture (3mm hex).....hope it help....cheer
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  #21  
Old 10-01-2010, 09:00 PM
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Been a while thought I'd update.

The harmonic balancer ended up exploding on the car (car sat for 2 or 3 years outside, I guess it rotted). Got it back together, still ran the same, got the replacement EHA from ebay, which was bad.

Got a replacement EHA from the ebay seller, and put it on the car, ran the same, took it to the store, when the car went into closed loop, it died.

Went home, took the original EHA and removed the set screw, and the insides were all F'ed up.

Took the Ebay EHA that I had on the car that almost killed me the night before, removed the set screw and gave the adjustment 1/4 turn.

Guess what? Car runs like a bat out of hell now.

So to sum it up, my old EHA was totally f'ed. The ebay one I bought was good, just needed some adjustment. All is well now!

Plenty of power and smooth throughout the power band.

Thanks to ps2cho and tinypanzer. You guys were correct!
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  #22  
Old 10-02-2010, 04:22 PM
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Thumbs up

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
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  #23  
Old 12-20-2010, 11:26 AM
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Hello guys,

Well, I was having the same problem as redassag00 had, that was about 1 month ago or so. i sent the car to the "mechanics" around "here". and all i got was a degraded performance.

here are some facts:
- No "Mechanic" here knows what the F he's doing. (they think that a turbo simply return the exhaust gas to the engine, and since the air is hotter its better for combustion. and a turbo is not irrelevant since I purchased a Twin-Turbo Mosselman KIT for my car and I should get it in a matter of days.)
- Around "here" It is easier to get drugs and weapons or even get killed than getting a new part.

enough whining.. the car "sometimes" runs perfectly, but Most of the times, i face the problem on 1/4 throttle the car stumbles and coughs then gradually accelerate. It consumes more gas than an F-16 fighter.

i replaced:
1- Injectors. brand new original.
2- Spark Plugs. I know i know. the ones im using are platinum not copper, and i have no idea if they have a resistor or not. but still, they are brand new and was recommended by MB Dealer. (im not eliminating this possibility.)
3-Fuel Distributor. (complete) including the EHA and the Mass Air Sensor.
4-Coil.
5-Coil Plate.
6-Distriputer cover.
7-Transmission (irrelative but i thought its worth mentioning.)
8-Spark plug wires.
9-The Computer located near the passenger feet.
10-Feul Pump.
11-Feul pump relay.
12- O2 sensor is disconnected.

and STILL the problem did not go away.

One electrician said that the wiring harness of the main ecu (up in the passenger feet place) that has ends to almost every sensor on the engine, that needed replacing!! WTF! right?!

any any any help would be highly appreciate it.
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  #24  
Old 12-21-2010, 09:54 AM
mak mak is offline
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,one additional part to keep in mind is the fuel pump relay due to ageing / wear tear it can becomes very troublesome and leads to engine cutting out and engine reliability.
for best performance replace ageing fuel and voltage relays along-with all the fuses with new copper/brass tip ones .makes all the difference !
mak
103
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  #25  
Old 01-04-2011, 06:15 PM
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Posts: 50
eha

The car should run ok with the EHa disconnected-ok not in closed loop but so what...-think it was mistake to buy an EHA-simply disconnecting it should have been done and see if the problem persists. You eliminate and simplify your problem.

I just glanced through this post but thought you perhaps got lucky in throwing a part at it vs disconnecting the EHA entirely to start-maybe thats not correct as I new to this.

Last edited by artony12; 01-05-2011 at 01:49 PM. Reason: misread
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  #26  
Old 01-04-2011, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mak View Post
,one additional part to keep in mind is the fuel pump relay due to ageing / wear tear it can becomes very troublesome and leads to engine cutting out and engine reliability.
Osama mentions a 1990 300-SEL in his post. That yr and the 1991 have the fuel pump relay incorporated into the MAS - silver box about the size of a pack of cigarettes near firewall - drivers side.

Black plug on top is turned to loosen and remove.

Pins 1 and 2 are jumpered to test fuel pump relay circuit. That circuit is hot so hit the holes straight.

My expereince(have a 1991) is that when the FPR is gone - the car simply dies. What Osama describes - sounds more like the problem the original poster was having.

Just my 2 cents.

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