Subframe Mounts
 

What would the advantage be of putting new subframe mounts?

And, can someone tell me how many there are, and if possible their part numbers? Or is it just a case of front and rear mounts?

Any help is appreciated

Guessing its for the 94 MB 220, do you need mounts? Advantages usually only if you need them, Main problem is swaying, rubbing, clanking, shifting,vibration. Get a garage that deals mainly just with alignments and suspension it should be a walk in the park for them to check. Other then that don't bother wasting your money they last.

Yes it's for a E220 Coupe 1994. 62,000 miles.

So there are only rear subframe mounts? No fronts?

Did you end up changing your Locry?

I feel that the ride can be better. It's very weird, some bumps it absorbs better than my other cars, and some much worse. But, the cars suspension is shot, and at 90+ mph it doesn't feel stable at all. Also it's pretty wiggly and rolls a lot in corners.

How much does it cost for ALL the bushings in the car?

I remember changing every single bushing in another car of mine to stiffer performance ones and the difference in handling was amazing.

nope... haven't done it yet... i feel there will be a little shock absorption do be had there.

Someone had recommended me changing the subframe mounts though to get the car "riding like new".

that's what i'm gunning for too. :)

But it seems like it won't do anything?

I noticed the shocks also have rubbers on the top mounts, maybe if they were replaced things would be smoother. However at 62,000 miles I am sure my shocks are pretty soft themselves and I doubt even with hard bushes they would send too much harshness to the cabin

The high-frequency stuff is all isolated by rubber, not shocks. Shocks halt the motion, keep things from traveling too far, too fast, or going into an oscillation but actually harshen the ride.

Rubber bushings are one great place to start, if your bushings are original they certainly will be harder than new.

The other and most important place to look is at the tires. Cheap tires make the car ride and drive like a cheap car, no way around it. Running a good set of OE size tires will be significantly better than running a cheap Chinese set, running low-profile high-performance tires will ride harsher than OE size, running the air pressure called out in the manual and filler flap will be better than running the sidewall maximum pressure.

I expect that some bushes have gone soft though, as the car isn't very stable, and the amount of roll it has in corners is bordering on the laughable side.

The tires are original size Yokohama with the recommended tire pressure.

How do you think I can get the perfect ride?

Inspect all bushings and links, repair as needed, and get a good set of Michelins.

Why michelins?
And what is wrong with the Yokahamas?

The car doesn't get driven much, and even though the tires are almost 3 years old, they only have about 2,000 miles on them

Nothing really, they're black.

However when I succumbed to the siren-song from a well-known tire store of "they're as good as a Michelin", I found myself very unhappy with the harsh ride and mediocre wet traction, gave them away.

I plan on hopefully this year getting some AMG Monoblocks, and I will consider Michelins very seriously then.

Of course, what is stopping me though, is the fact that with the monoblocks I wanted to drop the car about an inch, and along with lower profile tires I am considerably worried about the ride. The car is just a cruiser which I take out, and a plush ride is of the utmost importance