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#1
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Help! First the AC and now even the blower motor is out!
So this is what happened. I was on a 4 hour drive in my 84 500sel with the AC on the entire time (low fanspeed and medium temp, so I wasn't pushing the climate control system too hard, it was just on the whole time) but somewhere along the way, the AC compressor no longer engaged. The next day, when I turned on the AC, the compressor still wouldn't engage, although the blower still worked. Then, figuring it was the AC relay, I jumped the connection at the relay in the fusebox, and the compressor came on but for only a second; and then all of the climate control system died. Now, the blower motor doesn't even work. I'm thinkin a fuse blew somewhere, but the fuse in the fusebox for the AC and blower motor is intact, so I'm stumped. Is there another fuseholder somewhere along the wiring for the AC and blower motor? And do you know what caused the AC compressor to no longer engage in the first place? What are all the possible problems here?
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#2
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I have had similar problems with my W126 although a 300SD.
First, the compressor will disengage if the freon level drops past a certain point. If you did overload the circuit, if, check the wiring at the blower motor. Take off the right, passenger side under-dash panel and find the wiring harness. Mine got fried once and doing a splice wire cured that particular problem. I am no mechanic and consider that I am relaying my experience and not tech advise. L
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"Do not fight if there is nothing to be gained by winning." Erwin Rommel |
#3
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Well I did hook up a pressure gauge to read the low side pressure and it read greater than 100psi, but I thought that's just because the compressors not on and that's just residual pressure. Is there another reason that the reading is so high?
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#4
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And I don't think it has to do with the pressure anyway because the compressor kicked on for a second when I jumped the ac relay. It's just that I think a fuse somewhere along the way blew when I did that, or there might have been a short somewhere in the wiring that developed during my four hour drive. What would cause the relay to not engage the compressor in the first place?
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#5
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Quote:
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#6
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As to the blower motor, check the strip fuse located near the main fusebox next to the first firewall in a small black rectangular case. They like to get a hairline crack right in the middle. They break due to thermally induced metal fatigue.
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-tp 1990 300SE "Corinne"- 145k daily driver - street modified differential - PARTING OUT OR SELLING SOON - PORTLAND OR. AREA - PM ME FOR DETAILS 1988 560SEL "Gunther"- 190K passes anything except a gas station 1997 S420 - 265k just bought it with a rebuilt trans. Lovely condition |
#7
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Also, REPLACE (not just look at) fuses 10 and 11 and the fuse strip tinypanzer mentioned. After this, the system gets complicated. However there is more we can check after we get the basics out of the way. I suggest everyone get a GOOD test light for this kind of work. Check both ends of the fuse holder in question and you will know for sure if it is good or bad. Let us know what you find.
Paul
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84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles) |
#8
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Ok guys, so this is what I've found. Both the fuses themselves (10 and 11) are good. However, I ran a multimeter test for current, and there is only current going thru fuseholder 10 (the climate control fuse). There is no current at all on fuseholder 11 (the blower motor and ac fuse), so I guess that means a fuse somewhere else along the wiring for the ac/blower motor went out? As for the strip fuse, I don't think my car has one (it's an '84 gray market) and I couldn't find any rectangular box near the fusebox/firewall. Here's a pic of the fusebox area so you can tell me if I just missed the strip fuse, but I'm pretty sure I don't have one.
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#9
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Sorry for the delay in responding. The strip fuse on my 84 500SEL USA car is forward of the fuse block, just behind the diagnostic connector on the left inner fender. I'm not sure if the gray market cars have one or if the a/c system is the same as the USA version. I do know that there are differences in the USA and EURO versions but don't have any idea what the difference is. I have worked on a 84 280SL euro and the A/C is totally different from a USA 84 380 SL. Maybe pictures of the control panel, compressor, etc may help.
Paul
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84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles) |
#10
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Ok, I finally got the time to take pics of my climate control system and engine compartment where the strip fuse should presumably be located, although I still can't find it. But here they are, so let me know if you see the strip fuse and what you think the problem might be with my specific climate control system. Also, I discovered another problem that's definitely related to this mess. My horn hasn't worked since the blower motor's been out. Does that narrow down the diagnosis for what the problem is?
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#11
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On my US car the fuses are on the fender area in your 2nd photo. So look around for small black boxes about the size of a cube relay. There were 2 red fuses in mine that were nasty corroded (had to wire brush the contacts). Changed them a few minutes ago after reading this thread.
I am still trying to get my blower to turn back on, as it has not worked since I purchased this car months ago. This is a step in the right direction. Hopefully you can find your fuses and that solves your issue.
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'05 E320 CDI '20 GLE 450 |
#12
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Well I've officially given up looking for the strip fuse that's in the US cars, because I've had no luck spotting it anywhere in my gray market, leading me to assume that my car has no such strip fuse. If anybody happens to see it in the picture I've taken, please let me know, but for now, I'm trying to pinpoint other causes. Does anyone know at what point the horn and blower motor share a circuit/fuse in the wiring? Because as I mentioned, the horn went out along with the blower motor.
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#13
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Hopefully, when the holiday is over, someone who has more knowledge on this will chime in. There must be fuse protection somewhere (like the US cars), just where the heck is it?
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'05 E320 CDI '20 GLE 450 |
#14
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That's a good question! Based on the symptoms, I'm assuming the problem lies somewhere in the wiring AFTER the fuseholder for the horn (since there's still current going thru it), and BEFORE the fuseholder for the blower motor/ac (since there's no current going thru that one). If there turns out to be fuse protection hidden somewhere else in the wiring, I would say that the blown fuse is responsible for both the horn and blower motor. So does anyone know of a fuse somewhere along the wiring that supplies power to both the blower motor and horn?
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#15
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So does anyone know where the horn and blower motor are wired together?
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