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-   -   '94 E 320 (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/27999-94-e-320-a.html)

Mino Erhan 12-13-2001 09:45 PM

'94 E 320
 
Help Please,

I posted a topic last week on a cold start event here is more info please help.
Thank you!

Car:
1994 E-320 build in february. Do not know whehter wiring harness has been changed or not. I am trying to get the history from the dealer. 67,000 miles, one owner, only a few cat scratches on the car, otherwise flawless from the exterior. Bought it last week.

Problem:
It was 44F car started very reluctently after 4 tries. Got colder the next day, 29F started just fine. The next day 43F again, did not start at first but took 4 tries again, started but set an MIL light.
I now noticed that the car does also not shift into 3rd, but only after it reaches 3000rpm and a certain operating temp. After the car is warmed up its starts and shifts normal.

Observations:
I was cleaning the passenger side carpet when I noticed the following:
Below the insulated carpet there is a small connector (NOT the heater or signal wires for the oxygen sensor) there is some wiring work done. Added wires (2) and a fuse. One goes to the footboard and the other goes to below the right side tunnel towards the console. Is this an update? Looks somewhat professional. I inpsected the wires in the engine compartment, they are hard, but not brittle, and no ends are showing. The engine had been washed when I bought the car.
I have been looking for the diagnostic socket, (awaiting for the manuals) , to see whether I can get the codes out, havent found the diagnostic socket yet.

Question:
I do not have the code yet. Does the transmission potentially have anything to do with the coolant temp sensor? Does the O2 sensor have anything to do with the cold start and the transmission shifting. I thought that mabe they delayed the upshift so the sensor warms up quicker, once its there, things are ok. I dont know.
How do I get the code from this car, all I see is a covered connector (3"x1.5") with a button and what looks like a LED beside it. This connector is on the pass side behind the second firewall. Is this the press and hold for 3-5 secs, button? I have been loking thru alot of posts on the board but havent found anything pertaining to a 94 E320 as far as diagosis. Please help me on these questions as I always appreciate your input.

Thank you again

Arthur Dalton 12-13-2001 10:22 PM

You have located the led/sw code reader.
That will get you the codes. { see archives]
The trans has a delay shift until temp starts to come up. Normal.
The OVP relay [ aluminum can next to battery] could cause your start problem. They have been up-graded to a new part #.
There is also a fuse on top of this relay that you will want to check.
Next time it does not start, tap relay and re-try....

Mino Erhan 12-13-2001 10:30 PM

I will try to to find this relay. I cant believe MB still uses relays like the OVP on my 86 300E.
I tryed to acces the code myself but I could not get the led to blink. I held it down with the ign. on (pos 1) for about 5 sec and nothing came on. Am I doing the right thing?
Thank you Arthur for being up this late and responding.
Thank you.

Arthur Dalton 12-13-2001 10:36 PM

Ignition has to be in the run posistion.
Then press the led sw and it will light . Hold for two sec. when it lightsand then felease. The code will flash back.
The problem you may have is the sw is very tiny and has to be pressed very firmly.....

Mino Erhan 12-13-2001 11:03 PM

Well, I just ran out (man its cold and humid) and tried it. The ign. in run position, all ip lights on, press button... Led on, let go after 3-5 sec.... nothing,nada. held for over 10sec, thinking I could clear it... nothing nada. Car starts fine, but light is still on.

Help please
:confused:

Arthur Dalton 12-13-2001 11:09 PM

Holding led sw too long.
2 sec should be fine.
If you have a check eng light on, then there has to be a code.....

Mino Erhan 12-13-2001 11:15 PM

Thank you tkamyia,makes me feel better on the wiring.
While I checked around I noticed a fuse of ATP type, there were some tags on it, and they refered to aug.1993. This fuse was just to the fender apron of the diagnostic link. If this would be part of the wiring harness, I guess, I can assume that the whole harness was not changed.
But nevertheless, still cant get the code.....

Mino Erhan 12-13-2001 11:32 PM

Just went out again , tried with various intervals holding down the led sw. No code! When I press the switch ,led is on when I let go its off. No blinking at any stage. I tried 1 thorugh 10 secs. No code but MIL light is still on.
Help!!!:mad: What gives??
Note: It was easier on my old GM cars (ALDL connector)

Mino Erhan 12-13-2001 11:38 PM

Thanks again Tkamiya.
I noticed just like yours, that the wire was fed thru the fire wall, I located the OVP relay.... and I also notice that in my center console insede the cover that there are four holes,.....CELLPHONE!! Youare right. I now understand some of the other crazy things, like a small piece of coax cable wedged in between the A-pillar and the molding. Cell phone... Thank you, I will rip that off and see whats not working.

Sorry to report, still no code. But thank you for your help.

Arthur Dalton 12-14-2001 09:27 AM

I suspect you have to re-activate the memory.
As you just got the car, the PO/Dealer may have disconnected the battery . If so , here is how to reactivate the module.
key on-press led for 10 sec.
Turn key off for 2 sec.
turn key on for 30 sec
start car and wait for 30 sec. ck eng lite should go out in a few secs. If it is still on, recheck for codes.
Sometimes when power has been interuppted, the code retrival system will not work until approx 50 starts.
Also check for power with a test lamp from pin #1 to #16 at diagnostic socket.
The diagnostic module is fed from the OVP and faults to ground. That is why I mentioned the fuse check on top of the OVP.

Mino Erhan 12-14-2001 09:30 AM

Thanks Arthur, I am at work now, so no new until this evening.
But..... after all this button pressing last night, this morning, 31F car starts perfectly and NO Check engine light.
I guess the memory must have reset?

Thank you so much for your help.

Arthur Dalton 12-14-2001 09:37 AM

Yess, Very good.
Now look for codes if the ck eng light comes back on.
Just remember, the memory is not reset until the car is restatred after code retrival attempts.
Also, for the benifit of all- The check engine lamp is tied into the emmisions system diagnostics ONLY. The other codes for these cars can be pulled by going into the other sockets.

Mino Erhan 12-14-2001 09:50 AM

Arthur, your help in this matter is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Note: I am now a "member" vs. a "junior member". I have been posting on and off since 1999. Its great to be part of this group.
I will let you know what the progress is.

Thanks again.

Mino Erhan 12-15-2001 08:36 PM

I got it!!
Arthur, I have 2 blinks. I tried to erase the code, but , I try to hold down for 6-10 sec and the code still appears. Also when I started the car the light came back on. I retrieved the code and the light went off.
Is all this normal? What is code 2. O2 sensor maybe?
Also I found out what those wires were in the pass, floorboard. The car had a phone system installed previously, I took it off and I am happy.
So now I only have 2 more problems left code and the windshield. (more on that later.)

Please help: 1994 E-320 (w124) 2 blinks (code 2) what do I need?
Can I only erase the code after I change the component? Or am I erasing it and since the component is bad it comes on immediately upon start?
Thank you

Arthur Dalton 12-15-2001 10:20 PM

Code #2 is O2 sensor/circuit.

With the wiring under the rug you mentioned, make sure it is securely plugged in, etc.


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