2002 clk 320 in limp mode
 

my clk is stuck in limp mode, any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. :)

Any warning lights on dash?
Is the shifter moving into gears as it should or do you need to use "the stick trick" to get it out of park?
Gilly

From what I've heard, that's not all that's in LIMP MODE! :eek:

It moves into the gears with a clunking sound. The dash light say check engine.

Could be a number of things. The check engine light will no doubt refer to a ETC code. Conductor plate, rpm sensor, trans connector plug.........

Gilly

The town Mayor just came by with his code reader and it said crankshaft position sensor. Is that something I can fix myself?

The CKP sensor isn't hard to replace, but it's not what put your car into limp mode. You need a full system scan with SDS.

Do I have to take it to the dealer for that?

Yes, the squealer...

Even though it just had that one code?

I'm surprised ILUVMILS thinks that won't solve the limp home problem. I would think otherwise, but I don't know much about this newfangled technology other than to cower in fear.

This is starting to trouble me, I have a paying gig at the end of July in Ohio to go to. Hopefully I can get it fixed by then. :o

I agree with ILUVMILS, especially if this all started at once (CEL and limper-in-mode). Do you recall if the CPS code was current or stored? What I'd expect is that there will be a code in the engine controller referring to a code in the ETC. Possibly the reader that was being used doesn't have the capability of reading this code, although I'd sort of doubt it. The best bet would be to get to a shop where they can read ETC codes. MIGHT not need the dealer for that, but you might have to search for a german or MB repair specialist to find someone with a good enough reader.
Gilly

Will do. :D

I need more info PLEASE. :)

OK, what in particular do you need to know?
Gilly

The CPS is in and the Mayor is coming by with his code reader, wish me luck guys. :) The car doesn't clunk into gears anymore, but it's still in limp mode. hopefully the code reader will clear the problem. :D

:mad::mad: Po715 ???

You need to have the transmission scanned for fault codes. Most common problems are transmission slippage due to fluid loss, or faulty speed sensors in the conductor plate.

I would like to thank you guys especially my man Gilly. The clk is at the indies shop already. With all the info posted here, I feel educated enough to know what i:m talking about. Thanks again guys. :D

I belkieve the P0715 is a faulty turbine/input speed sensor fault, meaning a new conductor plate..
Gilly

The indie said that the 13 pin connector and some shift cellonoids are bad. WDYGT? :D

I would do the 13 pin connector just as a matter of course, but not the shift solenoids. Does this guy do just Mercedes? I'd ask him what he makes of the code you have, which is for the input (turbine) speed sensor, which is part of the conductor plate.
OH, is this what the PM at the other site referred to, THIS question?
Gilly

Yes. Also he is a former MB tech with the Star code reader.

the clk is back on gthe road. I will post the repair bill later. :D

WDYGT? http://i546.photobucket.com/albums/h...man/file-2.jpg

I:m starting to get nervous guys, with all the work that was done on my clk. I just noticed that the tranny cap wasn:t opened so how did the guy put new tranny fluid in the car? :eek:

If the guy is doing it correctly, the lock should be replqaced. Unless they discovered some way to remove the cap w/o breaking the lock. Unusual as you would think they would charge for a new lock, probably a couple bucks. If they did it right you might not know if they removed it or not.

Questioning the "speed sensor" as I would still insist (although w/o any real research) that the speed sensors (there are a couple) are part of the conductor plate. Which I think costs more than $67.00.

He said he was going to replace the connector, which again I would have done as part of the job, or at least the 2 o-rings, and I see no parts for that listed.

I can't make out what the item is on the second line in the parts area, where the price is listed for the atf.

The whole thing is pretty weird.

Gilly

Well the clk is back in limp mode, I find that it happens when I am driving slow and it clunks into gear. This time I pulled off the road and turned off the car and removed the key and then started it back up and it ran fine. Any new suggestions? :confused::confused::confused:

I still have a problem with the "rpm sensor" as i believe it is part of the conductor plate. The only thing NOT included with the conductor plate is the solenoids themselves, the rpm sensors are part of the conductor plate. The price of $67 I think is too cheap for the conductor plate.
There is also the question about the connector that wasn't done last time and we never really got a conclusion on the lock still being in place but he didn't charge you for one.
On the invoice you scanned, what is that on parts line 2, underneath where is says 8 qts fluid? Looks something like "lifter"??
Gilly

I believe it says filter. Hope this helps. :)

I was wondering if it said that, but then the next line down says "filter kit", one would assume a filter kit would include a filter, probably also a pan gasket and aluminum seal ring for the drain plug, oh hey that might also include a lock for the dipstick. But never seen a kit like that, but would be a good idea for a 722.6.
Gilly

I talked to the mechanic yesterday and he said it sounded like a voltage spike, dies this sound right? :D

Um, NO

The mechanic said that he reset the pram, what does that mean? :)

Sounds like he is a Macintosh man(read last item):
Pram may refer to:

PRAM may stand for:

Parallel Random Access Machine, an abstract machine for designing the algorithms applicable to parallel computers
Phase-change RAM, one type of non-volatile RAM
Parameter RAM, a small amount of non-volatile random access memory (NVRAM) used on Apple Macintosh machines to store configuration information independent of boot environment

So I assume he is saying he reset the adaptation, but if he didn't readapt it, he probably didn't fix anything, just wanted to push a few buttons and get you off his back for awhile. I am assuming he still didn't give you a straight answer on anything.

Gilly

Agreed, should I ask him to replace the 13 pin connector?

Well, maybe, it's really a strange situation now. I still don't really understand what was done in the first place, as the rpm sensors are part of the conductor plate, and I am not seeing what I consider the appropriate part on the first invoice. So, if he IS saying the conductor plate was done, then I don't see the sense in replacing it (the 13 pin connector) at this point, I believe the main concern with the 13 pin conector is to avoid leaks, not cure a bad connection, as the connectors themselves are part of the conductor plate. I would have wanted the 13 pin connector replaced if he replaced the conductor plate (at the same time).
Right now I would want to know if the rpm sensor codes are still registered, or any other codes. I have pretty much no confidence in this guy by now, unless he starts spitting out some straight answers.
Gilly

Mr. Gilly, at this point I would GLADLY pay you what ever you ask to talk to him on my behalf. :)

Any other thought before I call the mechanic? :)

Print this all out and take it with you?

Will do my man. :)

So far so good, Vickie and I went on a 100 mile trip today with no problems.

You kind of skipped a major part, what did he DO to it??
Merry Christmas CLK man!
Turned a McD's egg nog shake into a McTom'n'Jerry tonight, you woulda been proud!

he put acid on the contacts. :)

Great, so your transmission is on an "acid trip".;)